Danish Hygge Holiday: See the Best of Copenhagen in 5 Days
LAST UPDATED: MARCH 30, 2025 | TRAVEL DATE: NOVEMBER 2023 | EST. READING TIME: 40 MIN
IN THIS GUIDE ✺
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Looking to embrace Scandi style in one of the safest cities in the world?
From the rainbow Nyhavn waterfront to the historic charm of surrounding cities like Hans Christian Andersen's hometown, Odense, Copenhagen captivates visitors with its storied past. Embrace the Danish concept of "hygge" in cozy cafes or cycle past picturesque windmills and castles, common public features highlighting Denmark's seamless blend of tradition and progress.
Delight in the innovative urban planning shaping the layout of the city and admire the timeless beauty of UNESCO-listed sites like Kronborg Castle, which inspired the Shakespearean tale Hamlet. Copenhagen’s progressive societal ethos, rooted in sustainability and happiness, is evident even while basking alongside the charming canals as you watch electric ferries glide by with a multipurpose waste-to-energy plant you can ski down in the background!
5 Days in Copenhagen Itinerary
In a hurry? Here’s a time-stamped overview of the detailed Copenhagen 5 days travel guide you’ll find below, including all the top attractions to visit when spending five days in the Danish capital. Aside from the Royal Opera and Tivoli tickets, all listed activities and the public transport required to reach them are completely covered by the Copenhagen Discover Card—which is one of the best ways to travel around Copenhagen affordably.
Day 1
9:15 - 10:00 AM: 🍳 Snack on a choose-your-own-spread brunch board at Mad & Kaffe (45 min)
10:30 AM - 12:30 PM: 🏰 Explore ivory and amber treasures inside Rosenborg Castle (2 hr)
12:35 - 2:00 PM: 🌴 Admire flora in the Botanical Garden and Palmehuset greenhouse (1 hr 25 min)
2:05 PM - 3:00 PM: 🥪 Try traditional Danish smørrebrød during lunch at Torvehallerne (55 min)
3:10 PM - 3:30 PM: 🗼 Gaze at a panoramic view of the skyline from the Round Tower (20 min)
3:35 - 5:00 PM: 🛍️ Browse Scandi design and ceramic stores on pedestrian-friendly Strøget (1 hr 25 min)
5:00 - 7:45 PM: 🥱 Rest and get ready for dinner (1 hr 45 min)
8:00 - 9:30 PM: 🍖 Dine in the trendy meat-packing Vesterbro neighborhood at Fleisch (1 hr 30 min)
Day 2
9:00 - 9:45 AM: 🚆 Travel outside the city to Hillerød via the S-commuter train (45 min)
9:45 - 10:15 AM: 🏘️ Walk through the charming main street of Hillerød (30 min)
10:15 AM - 1:15 PM: 🏰 Wander around the endless opulent rooms of Frederiksborg Castle (2 hr)
1:15 - 2:15 PM: 🏡 Stroll around the Baroque landscaping of Frederiksborg Castle Gardens (1 hr)
2:30 - 3:45 PM: 🚉 Head back to Copenhagen after enjoying your half-day trip (1 hr 15 min)
4:00- 6:00 PM: 🛌 Relax at your lodging to recharge for the rest of the evening (2 hr)
6:00 - 9:00 PM: 🎢 Ride rollercoasters at historic Tivoli Gardens (3 hr)
9:00 - 10:00 PM: 🍽️ Grub out at one of the many vendors present inside the Tivoli Food Hall for dinner (1 hr)
Day 3
9:30 - 10:00 AM: ☕ Get energized with coffee and pastries from Lagkagehuset (30 min)
10:15 AM - 12:45 PM: 🏰 Tour the rooms, ruins, and kitchen of Christiansborg Palace (2 hr 30 min)
12:45 AM - 1:05 PM: 🌼 Meander through the unassuming Garden of the Royal Library (20 min)
1:05 - 1:25 PM: ⛪ Snap a photo of the Palace Chapel and Børsen during your walk around town (20 min)
1:30 - 2:00 PM: 🐎 Return to the Royal Stables as soon as they open for the afternoon (30 min)
2:20 - 3:05 PM: 🥣 Refuel with a bowl of oatmeal, soup, or porridge during lunch GRØD (45 min)
3:05 - 4:05 PM: ☮️ Explore Freetown Christiania and ascend the Church of our Savior (1 hr)
4:05 - 7:05 PM: 😌 Chill out once more before an involved evening of fine dining (3 hr)
7:30 - 9:00 PM: 🍵 Indulge in a multi-course Michelin meal inside the Vækst greenhouse (1 hr 30 min)
Day 4
10:10 - 11:10 AM: 🚤 Cruise through the canals inside a heated boat on a Stromma tour (1 hr)
11:20 - 11:30 AM: 🤾🏼♀️ Bounce along trampolines built directly into the sidewalk! (10 min)
11:35 AM - 12:00 PM: 🛟 Travel to Copenhagen’s famously vibrant seaside district, Nyhavn (1 hr 25 min)
12:20 - 12:25 PM: 🗿 Wave to Han Christain Anderson’s iconic statue, The Little Mermaid (5 min)
12:30 - 1:00 PM: 🌬️ Admire the windmill at former military-base-turned-public-park Kastellet (30 min)
1:10 - 1:05 PM: ⛪ Pop into the marble religious wonder, Frederik's Church (5 min)
1:15 PM - 3:15 PM: 🍣 Indulge in a tasty omakase sushi lunch at Damindra (2 hr)
3:25 - 5:00 PM: 🖌️ Examine Egyptian artwork in the Glyptotek (1 hr 35 min)
5:00 - 7:00 PM: 💤 Chillax to recover and prepare for your last evening activity (2 hr)
7:30 - 10:45 PM: 🗣️ Get dolled up for a musical evening at the Royal Danish Opera (3 hr 15 min)
Day 5
9:00 - 10:00 AM: 🥐 Munch on a flaky pastry during your last breakfast at Rug Bakery (1 hr)
10:20 - 10:55 AM: 📚 Peruse through the bookshelves of the Black Diamond (35 min)
11:00 AM - 12:00 PM: 🏬 Grow your knowledge of modern design at the Danish Architecture Center (1 hr)
12:20 - 1:20 PM: 👑 Observe the changing of the guards at Amalienborg Palace (1 hr)
1:30 - 1:45 PM: 🌭 Try a Danish pølser in Nyhavn to check off another local speciality (15 min)
2:00 - 3:00 PM: ⛴️ Cruise down the harbor once more on a Netto Boat Tour (1 hr)
3:00 - 7:00 PM: 🪫 Go to anything you didn’t get to from the itinerary, or recharge your social battery (4 hr)
7:00 - 8:30 PM: 🍕Enjoy one last dinner with a whole gourmet pizza from Mother (1 hr 30 min)
How to Get Around Copenhagen?
Before diving into Copenhagen specifics, ensure you’re properly equipped to travel around with ease. Get the most bang for your buck while visiting the capital of Denmark with the Copenhagen Discover Card. This card unlocks unlimited public transportation in the entire capital region including Metro, bus, commuter-train (S-trains), regional train, local train, and harbor-bus rides (aka the ferries whirring by in the canals). This “capital region” includes travel to towns outside Copenhagen like Roskilde, Helsingør, Hillerød and more, empowering you with the flexibility to take day trips from the city center! Find a map of all 99 zones here — which includes transport to and from the airport.
Pro Tip:
Train stations are typically above ground with commuter, regional, and local trains passing through. The Metro is an underground subway —if transit directions include an “M” line (like M3 for example), find an entrance with a big red M on it and head underground. Don’t wander cluelessly looking for an “M3” train in the station like I did!
If you have time-bound activities to attend to, note that out of all the public transport options I found the bus system to be the least reliable. With bus line 26 in particular, there were a few instances where I waited outside for 20+ minutes to no avail, when according to the schedule three buses should’ve already come by. At that point I took matters into my own hands and walked, but should you need to get somewhere quickly I recommend the Metro, train, and ferry route options over the bus.
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If the perk of unlimited public transit wasn’t exciting enough, the Copenhagen Discover Card also includes access to 80+ attractions inside and around the city — which includes pretty much any tourist activity in Copenhagen you could think of. Included attractions range from museums and palaces to theme parks and boat tours; regardless of your personal interests, the Discover Card includes enthralling attractions for everyone.
Depending on the length of your trip and intended amount of transit, the Copenhagen Discover Card could be a huge cost saver — and save you the headache of purchasing tickets every time you’re on the go. If you’re unsure whether the card is worthwhile for your particular itinerary, use the handy Savings Calculator to see how much you can save with one of the best ways to travel to Copenhagen affordably! The Discover Card is offered in 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 day variations, with the cost per day decreasing as the number of days increases.
The Copenhagen Card is technically offered in two different variations: Discover vs. Hop. In my opinion, there’s absolutely no reason to buy the Hop Card considering it includes half as many attractions, only allows you to ride Stromma’s Hop On-Hop Off buses, and is somehow more expensive than the Discover Card. Why pay more for only 40+ attractions which you have to take a stinky open-air double decker bus to reach them?
When using the Copenhagen Discover Card, it’s also important to note that:
No Revisits - You can visit as many attractions in a day as you wish, however, the Copenhagen Card entitles the cardholder to one visit per attraction regardless of the card type. In other words, re-visits are not included.
Consider Reservations - Rosenborg Castle, Amalienborg Castle, and the Church of Our Saviour require pre-booking a time slot directly through the attractions’ own websites. Find instructions on how to pre-book tickets free of charge for each attraction linked above.
Show Your Card - Do not tap the card at stations or stops before boarding public transit. Instead, simply present your active and valid Copenhagen Card to any ticket inspectors aboard upon request. Onboard buses, present your card to the driver.
Stay Valid - Your card must be valid throughout your entire journey, whether you’re traveling by bus, train, harbor bus, or Metro. It’s your responsibility to make sure the card is valid and does not expire mid-journey.
This is a good place to say: be warned if you’re a tourist expecting to bike around the city. I watched a TikTok before my trip which interviewed a local Dane promoting this same warning, but I really didn’t understand what she meant before I got there—once I saw the pure density of cyclists occupying the lanes all around the city, I realized this was extremely valid advice.
If you rent a bike in Copenhagen, expect to be jam packed in a single file line of 20+ bikers, peddling in a narrow lane mere inches from traffic. You’ll benefit from some knowledge of hand turn signals so you can indicate where you’re headed to oncoming traffic. In practice, the biking infrastructure around the city is top notch, with bike lanes designated on nearly every road and gutter rails built into staircases to easily roll bikes up steps; however, if you’re not comfortable on a bike this probably isn’t the best place to try it out.
How Many Days Should You Spend in Copenhagen?
TL;DR: You need at least 5 days to really explore the city and surrounding areas of Copenhagen, especially when visiting in the winter.
When I first started planning my trip to Copenhagen, I continually saw advice from travel bloggers online that “you only need to spend 3 to 4 days in Copenhagen,” with some suggesting even this duration was too long. Given I took a full week of PTO and all of my past Europe trips involved zipping between cities every 1 to 2 days, I ignored this common recommendation—and I’m so glad I did.
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In actuality I spent a whole week in the city, combining my outings into the action-packed 5 days Copenhagen itinerary below.
I opted for an extended stay in Denmark’s capital since I was visiting in the winter, which anyways wasn’t the best time to travel to Copenhagen since limited daylight is the norm, with the sun setting around 4 PM. Even if you’re an early riser, there’s not much time to sightsee while the sun is out.
Additionally, traveling to Scandinavia in the winter entails not-so-great weather more often than not — think frigid gray days with rain whipping around your head. This is expected considering the northern latitude of this locale, but it also limits your ability to enjoy outdoor activities in a city chock full of public green spaces and urban community centers.
Only visiting for 3 or 4 days lessens the chance you’ll encounter beautiful blue skies enhancing your canal tours and garden strolls.
A Portuguese solo traveler who I shared a hostel room with heard this same advice and expressed her great regret that she only booked a 3-day stay, as she had to fly through the city without much time to soak in the hygge spirit and didn’t have time for excursions to landmarks outside the city center. All this said, if you intend to take any day trips or want to enjoy the majority of attractions Copenhagen has to offer, book at least a 5-day stay during your travel to Copenhagen.
Where to Stay in Copenhagen?
LODGING: Next House Copenhagen (~$30/night in a female 4-bed dorm with flexible booking)
Next House Copenhagen is the most luxurious yet simultaneously most cost-effective hostel I’ve ever resided in. I’m not a hostel person and only book them as a last-ditch money-saving attempt, but Next House may be the hostel to change my mind.
I booked a female shared 4-bed dorm for only $220, meaning my average cost per night was a mere $31 during the seven nights I spent in Copenhagen. This price was quite literally too good to pass up considering I spend more than that on a single meal back home. For higher rates there’s also twin, double, and private rooms. I saw people from all walks of life at Next House from couples and solo travelers to families with young children; the various room arrangements can work for any type of traveler.
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Next House dorms are arranged in 4 and 6-pod rooms. The stacked pods mimic bunk beds, but the enclosed walls feel quite private and dark so you can actually get a good night’s sleep. Upon arrival, find a towel in your pod along with a comforter—a pocket mounted to the wall can hold your small personal items with two outlets in the ceiling. By policy, stays more than 4 days guarantee your bed will be re-made with fresh sheets and a new towel, but since the other guests in my room quickly cycled through I enjoyed clean sheets pretty much every day. You can also request a fresh towel for DKK 25 and have your bed made with fresh linens for DKK 50 at any time.
You’ll share a room with 3 or 5 other travelers, but in my experience not every bed was filled each night, and most guests only stayed for a day or so. You will share a bathroom and shower, but the hostel provides soap and shampoo (and luckily the water was pleasantly hot). In the dorms, each guest also is assigned their own locker to store valuables, and if you don’t have a lock you can buy one at the front desk for ~$5.
The true beauty of Next House, however, lies in its expansive amenities and weekly activities. The building is HUGE and encompasses:
a massive cozy lounge where travelers gather
a nightlife venue with a full-bar (one of five on the property), live music, and weekly themed dance parties
a rooftop terrace and bar with a 360-degree view overlooking the city
a stocked gym available for DKK 20 next to an indoor stadium where dodgeball and soccer can be played, along with yoga and pilates classes for DKK 20 offered every week
a game room with foosball, shuffleboard, pool, and various board games plus mini golf Mondays
an atmospheric cinema that can seat 30 guests for movie and sports match screenings
a fully equipped luxury self-service kitchen and an in-house eatery serving breakfast for DKK 69 and oven-baked pizza dinners for DKK 129
free wifi, self-service washer and dryers for DKK 20 each, luggage store lockers for DKK 20 per every 3 hours, and bike rentals for DKK 125 per day allowing you to explore the city on your own terms
free walking tours with a local guide from Politically Incorrect Tours by your side, departing daily from the reception at 10:20 AM and ending around 12:30 PM at Amalienborg Palace
But that’s not all! As a first time solo traveler, I was ecstatic to see that Next House offers three events every day specifically catered to solo travelers looking to meet each other. Kickstart your day at 10:00 AM with coffee meetup Get Tip-sy where you can learn local Copenhagen tips from the friendly Next House staff. After a long day exploring the city, relax with a free pint of beer during Hostel Hour from 5:00-7:00 PM in the lounge. This is yet another opportunity to connect with other hostel guests and share your day's experiences. If that wasn’t enough, my favorite solo traveler event had to be the communal Hostel Dinner, offered for DKK 69 at 7:00 PM. That’s only ~$10 for an all-you-can-eat home-cooked meal shared with travelers from around the globe—and probably the cheapest meal you’ll eat in Copenhagen!
Pro Tip:
Even though they are exclusively aimed at solo travelers, there’s a limited number of Hostel Dinner seats available each night. Reserve your spot at the reception in the morning if you plan to join the event in the evening!
How to See Copenhagen in 5 Days?
FROM: Next House Copenhagen (Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark)
TO: Mad & Kaffe (Sønder Blvd. 68, 1720 Vesterbro, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: København H → Enghave Plads via M3 toward Frederiksberg (9 min, 0 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Day 1
Brunch — Mad & Kaffe
Start your 5 days in Copenhagen with a delectable brunch highlighting the Danish small plates concept offered in various breakfast spots across the city. From 8:30 AM onwards every day at Mad & Kaffe, curate the elements on your brunch board to enjoy a personalized combination of small plates —you can also select the same dish several times!
Upon entering the cozy cafe, indicate on the menu checklist which of the three, five, or seven dishes you’d like to taste. The menu rotates seasonally, with various bakery, dairy, protein, green, and dessert options available. The menu also indicates which plates have gluten, nuts, dairy, and which are vegan or vegetarian friendly, so it’s the perfect place to take companions with a range of food preferences and restrictions.
Visiting Copenhagen in November, I enjoyed the croissant, greek-inspired yogurt, Danish bacon, scrambled eggs, and gingerbread on a gloomy rainy morning. Each and every plate was absolutely scrumptious as I cleared out my brunch board and washed everything down with a warm elderflower “Winter’s Hug.” Reservations aren’t offered for breakfast, so show up and wait to be seated!
Rosenborg Castle
FROM: Mad & Kaffe (Sønder Blvd. 68, 1720 Vesterbro, Denmark)
TO: Rosenborg Castle (Øster Voldgade 4A, 1350 København, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: Dybbølsbro St. → Nørreport St. via S-commuter train lines A, B, or C (20 min, 3 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
One of four Danish palaces in this itinerary, Rosenborg Castle sheds light on the House of Oldenburg which reigned over Denmark from 1448-1863.
Aside from showcasing outrageously ornate gold and silver furnishings in maximally-decorated parlors, this particular landmark also houses historic weapons in the armory, handcrafted amber and ivory art pieces, and old royal memorabilia including two crowns with the biggest sapphire I’ve ever seen.
Rosenborg is located in the center of Copenhagen in the middle of Kongens Have. Upon approaching the brick building, you may notice men in uniform walking around with some sizable weapons. Luckily there’s no need for alarm, as these Life Guards protect the Danish treasury, which for 400 years has taken care of Danish royalty’s most precious treasures in the basement under Rosenborg Castle. The castle was originally built in 1606-1607 as a summerhouse by order of King Christian IV, who was a bit of a Danish visionary and ordered the construction of all four castles featured in this itinerary.
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Beginning in Christian IV’s Winter Room, walk through 30 rooms across three floors depicting the chronological life, art, and furnishings of House of Oldenburg monarchs from Christian IV through Frederik VII. Rosenborg, as well as the other featured castles, does an amazing job of making this centuries-long timeline digestible and honestly quite interesting!
Take for instance the royal sense of humor depicted in the Dark Room, housing a specially constructed chair which locks the seated guest seated in with concealed armrest constraints before wetting their pants and letting out a “toot”. Talk about the enduring, universal appeal of fart jokes.
On the historical side, each monarch is featured in a different room with exhibits and mementos dating from the time of their rule. Every room, portrait, and piece of furniture is so intricately crafted it’s easy to get lost staring at the beauty of everything around you—the Knight’s Hall on the second floor is a particularly ornate ballroom with coronation thrones guarded by three silver lions that I absolutely recommend you check out!
The basement, however, is where the real magic happens. Find weapons and Rosenburg wine barrels, including a Colt revolver given to Frederik VII by an envoy of Abraham Lincoln. After examining royal riches throughout the castle, I was shocked that these artifacts were even remotely related to that period of American history, but this time-bending revelation made the landmark even more interesting!
Continuing through the cellar reveals a room entirely dedicated to ivory and amber art, more princely presents, astronomical machines, and last but not least, the treasury. Stock full of coronation regalia, these featured pieces stem from the period of absolute monarchy, meaning the hereditary kings had total power. In other words, the crowns, scepters, and swords from this period are decked out in jewels!
Although Rosenborg Castle is free to enter with the Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 130 otherwise, the space is a bit narrow and cramped. To mitigate crowding, only a certain number of visitors are allowed inside during a specified time slot. To avoid having to wait to enter the castle, pre-book a ticket and arrive at your designated entrance time.
Check out the King’s Garden before you leave—the rose garden to the right of the moat is particularly enchanting with neatly-manicured hedges shaped like stars flanking the rose beds.
Palmehuset
Directly across the street is the National Museum of Natural History’s botanical garden, spread over 10 hectares as the biggest plant collection in Denmark. Enjoy this expansive green space within the city, strolling amongst various sections showcasing Danish, perennial, annual plants, rock gardens with mountainous plants, and a Conifer hill encompassing over 13,000 unique species. During the summer, explore the butterfly house for a small fee.
The highlight of this natural oasis is a tropical palm house called Palmehuset dating back to 1874. Each green house connected within this elaborate glass structure is temperature-controlled, facilitating an environment suitable for Arctic plants in one room while another dry, hot section of the greenhouse is packed with desert cacti. Entry is free with the Copenhagen Discover card or DKK 60 otherwise.
In the center-most greenhouse, find the towering palms which give Palmehuset its name. On the ground floor, search for sculptures tucked amongst trunks and palm fronds, or scale the cast-iron spiral staircase to observe the treetops from above. The tall, narrow steps lead 16 meters upwards towards a circular platform which wraps around the entirety of the domed glass roof.
Pro Tip:
If visiting Copenhagen in the winter, escape the cold in the heated greenhouses of Palmehuset which serve as the perfect balmy oasis to warm your hands in.
Lunch - Torvehallerne
Walk five minutes to Torvehallerne, an urban covered marketplace featuring high-quality stalls selling local crops, gourmet foods, beverages, and desserts.
Wander through speciality stands offering fresh produce and food bars representing cuisines from around the world which are predominantly sustainable and organic. Regardless of your dining preferences, you’re sure to find something scrumptious suited to your taste at one of the top attractions to visit when traveling to Copenhagen.
Hallernes Smørrebrød is a famous chain inside serving up “the best smørrebrød in Copenhagen,” a Danish staple dish. Smørrebrød is an open-faced sandwich built on dense sourdough rye bread called rugbrød with the name of the sandwich coming from the Danish words for butter and bread.
I ordered the steak tatare variation for DKK 98 with freshly minced organic beef tartare, pickles, horseradish, onion, capers, and an organic egg yolk on top. To be honest, I found the dish lacking flavor with the dense bread contributing to an overall bland taste. I may have just chosen a subpar variety, but when in Denmark, it’s worth trying once.
Other highlights include Granny’s House which sells traditional Danish rum ball desserts called romkulger, Summerbird for chocolate-coated marshmallow treats called flødeboller, and the Coffee Collective to taste arguably some of the best coffee in Copenhagen. Being that highly regarded, expect to wait in a long line before you’re able to order a cup of joe.
Round Tower
Once you’re fed and rested, stroll down the street to Rundetaarn, or the Round Tower. Also commissioned for construction by Christian IV in 1637, the Round Tower is part of the Trinity Complex comprising the Observatory at the top of the tower, the University Library above the Trinity Church, and the church itself below. Built using the royal colors of red and yellow, the tower interior ascends via a spiral ramp you can climb to reach the upper deck with a 360-degree view of Copenhagen.
Along the way, pass a planetarium at the upper end displaying the current planetary positions. In the center of the exterior viewing deck sits Europe’s oldest functioning observatory, which you can use to gaze at the stars above. If you have a Copenhagen Card you might as well make the visit, but the novelty of the tower wears off quickly—only plan to spend about twenty minutes here. Otherwise you’ll have to pay DKK 40, in which case I’d say this is one attraction you can certainly skip without missing out on much.
Strøget
After a long morning investigating Danish history, kick back and relax in the afternoon with some retail therapy. The most famous shopping street in Copenhagen, Strøget is a pedestrian-only walkway lined with luxury designer stores and Danish boutiques. Since you can find storefronts like Gucci and Zara anywhere, explore Scandinavian design concept shops instead to get a pulse on local aesthetics and maybe pick up a souvenir for the living room while you’re at it!
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Hay House — A contemporary furniture and design store carrying pieces for modern living, Hay House is the perfectly staged Scandi store of your dreams. I wanted to buy everything in here, and was particularly obsessed with the colored glass kitchenware. With my luggage stuffed to the brim, I decided not to risk it and opted for a small portable, color-blocked lamp and a few patterned candlesticks. If you’re only going to stop in one store, this should be the one!
Notre Dame — A roomy home goods shop with an emphasis on Nordic designers, find decor, gifts, and stationary galore inside Notre Dame. Compared to the large furnishings in Hay House, Notre Dame moreso specializes in decor and accessories adding pops of color and funky patterns to your space.
Studio Arhoj — I’m obsessed with this last store and am still beating myself up over the fact that I didn’t buy anything. Part-store, part-glass blowing and ceramic workshop, Studio Arhoj brings their hand-made decor to life using a cast of characters categorizing their selection. Skip the pet rock and opt for a crystal blob or ghost ceramic with emotional anthropomorphic eyes. If you’re looking for something with a little less animism, they also sell dishes and glassware ranging from tiny sake cups all the way to large plates and bowls. If you’re not in the mood to shop, you might as well stroll inside to watch these creations made live with a full kiln and glass-blowing set-up inside the store!
Dinner - Fleisch
Both a butcher selling high-quality meats and a restaurant serving those same provisions to diners, Michelin Guide Fleisch delivers simple rustic dishes that pack a punch. Serving traditional smørrebrød at lunchtime, dinner offerings include an extremely-reasonably priced five-course tasting. This “butcher’s menu” includes three seasonal appetizers, two mains, and a dessert for only DKK 465 or ~$70.
I was already so stuffed that I ended up just ordering their winter pork cheeks with a glass of Danish rose wine and a caramel crème brûlée for dessert—but in the end spent nearly the same amount going à la carte. The buttery pork cheeks melted in my mouth and the cranberry sauce dressing the meat was the perfect winter treat!
If you happen to be solo traveling to Copenhagen, Fleisch has bar counter seating which coincidentally looks directly into the drink prep area. Since I was essentially staring at the kind Fleisch servers throughout my meal, I ended up chatting with two of them throughout dinner. Dining alone can be intimidating enough, so I truly appreciated the kind warmth from both of these local Danes as we discussed our respective cultures—and I was quickly informed the rainbow canal street Nyhavn is pronounced “noo-houn” not “nie-haven.”
Day 2
Frederiksborg Castle
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FROM: Next House Copenhagen (Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark)
TO: Frederiksborg Castle (Frederiksborg Slot 10, 3400 Hillerød, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: København H → Hillerød St. via S-commuter train line A with Trainline tickets (44 min, 17 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 74)
Out of all the castles in this itinerary, Frederiksborg Castle is the most massive with vibrant green rooftops, whimsical bell tower spires, and an impressive moat surrounding the structure. Given its location an hour outside Copenhagen, this is the least crowded tourist attraction you’ll encounter as well—which I found extremely enjoyable since I could get lost in the royal ambiance without weaving through crowded, cramped rooms like those in Rosenborg Castle.
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Begin day 2 in Copenhagen with the longest public transit ride in this entire itinerary, but I promise the destination is worth the wait—and the commute is conveniently simple if you’re staying around central Copenhagen! Ride from the city center towards the town of Hillerød, passing suburbs and smaller neighborhoods along the way.
Once your train pulls into Hillerød, depart and begin a quick 20-minute jaunt through the small town. Following Slotsgade, the main road running through Hillerød, will take you past a variety of shops and restaurants where you can stop for a quick bite to eat before continuing on towards Frederiksborg Castle. Although this view is partially blocked while in the commercial section of town, the winding road curves ever so slightly around Lake Slotssøen, with the end of Slotsgade dropping you off directly at the castle entrance. If in a hurry, ride one of the local buses—line 301 towards Ullerød or line 302 towards Sophienlund—and get off at the stop “Frederiksborg Slot.”
Upon arriving at the entrance,cross over a bridge between protective walls before entering the central plaza where you can finally admire Frederiksborg Castle in its full glory.
Frederiksborg Castle was built by a name you’re likely familiar with at this point—King Christian IV—in the early 17th century and is the largest Renaissance complex in the Nordic region. The aim of all his commissions was to enhance Christian IV’s status as a powerful European monarch and to show off the great aptitude of Denmark. Since 1878 Frederiksborg Castle has housed The Museum of National History, which presents 500 years of Danish history with a collection of portraits, historical paintings, furniture, and applied art.
Whereas Rosenborg Castle walks through a chronological sliver of Danish history, Frederiksborg Castle is moreso a showcase of paintings, portraits, and statues within the rooms of the castle. The grand ornateness—specifically the walls and ceilings of the Chapel and Great Hall—makes Frederiksborg worth the visit even if simply to look at beautiful things. The castle also rotates various exhibits every few months; when I witnessed an interactive staging of iconic ceilings in the castle brought to life via visual overlays, soundscapes, and an accompanying audio guide titled “Magical Ceilings.”
Pro Tip:
There’s a correct way to walk through the castle. Begin in the room with the smallest number, as depicted by wooden plaques above each doorframe or by using the physical or digital castle guides, and continue on in ascending numerical order.
Frederiksborg Castle Gardens
If fancy royal rooms aren’t your thing, Frederiksborg Castle is even worth a visit to see the stunning Baroque garden behind the castle’s lake. As the style of the age dictated, it was symmetrically constructed with perfectly straight hedges, geometrically-trimmed trees, and massive monograms constructed from flower beds and shrubbery. This intricate craftsmanship has dubbed the castle and surrounding landscape: the “Danish Palace of Versailles”.
The four royal monograms depicted are representative of Frederik IV, Frederik V, Christian VI and Margrethe II—as these are the four monarchs under whom the complex has existed, from Fredrik IV’s creation to its recreation in Queen Margrethe’s time. Adjacent to the strict symmetry of this Baroque garden is a romantic landscape with free-growing wooded forests, large grassy hills, lakes, streams, and meandering paths. This contrasting juxtaposition depicts varying ideals throughout Danish history, with the idyllic free nature positioned next to a landscape that requires constant upkeep to maintain. Whichever half of the royal gardens you prefer, a stroll through this natural oasis is bound to be a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Before heading back into town pop by Café Havehuset for lunch, situated away from the castle towards the intersection between the Baroque and romantic gardens. To return to Copenhagen, follow the original commute in reverse: walk from Frederiksborg Castle to Hillerød St. station, ride the S-train line A for 17 stops, and depart at København H station.
Tivoli Gardens
Treat yourself to a proper rest after trekking all the way to Hillerød. Once you’re ready for more action, your nighttime adventures begin at Tivoli Gardens next door to København H. Unlike the actual gardens at Frederiksborg, Tivoli Gardens is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world filled with thrilling coasters, exotic architecture, and historic buildings. Visit Tivoli in the evening when it truly comes alive, with thousands of colored lights creating a fairytale atmosphere that inspired the likes of Hans Christain Anderson and Walt Disney in the creation of Disney World.
The rides align with the architecture of Tivoli, with nostalgic features paying homage to the park’s origins while modern fixtures have been developed to wow thrill seekers. Built in 1914, the wooden Roller Coaster is one of the oldest in the world while the newer steel Demon flips you head-over-heels through a daring loop. Depending on when you visit, find the park decked out in accordance with the current theme, whether that’s Halloween, Christmas, winter, or summer.
While the Copenhagen Discover Card gets you inside the park for free, you have to dole out extra cash to ride the attractions. Expect to pay DKK 169, 259, or 299 depending on whether you purchase the Ride Pass Mini, Ride Pass, or Ride Pass Plus.
Pro Tip:
When transitioning between seasons, Tivoli Gardens closes for about a week. If you’re set on visiting this attraction, ensure your dates don’t fall within this closure period.
Dinner - Tivoli Food Hall
After an action-packed day, refuel at the Tivoli Food Hall situated on the outer corner of the amusement park facing København H. Similar to Torvehallerne, find a range of international and local cuisines catering to various tastes represented in the food stands scattered throughout the long dining hub. This convenient yet high-quality option is the perfect place to enjoy dinner after exploring the historic theme park.
Embrace the lively atmosphere and savor different flavors, or simply opt for comfort food and pull up a chair at La Baracca like I did. Recognized by Registro Eccellenze Italiane in 2019 for serving up “homemade fresh Italian pasta,” I can personally vouch for the mouth-watering delight that is their bolognese pasta. The full plate of thick-cut, fresh doughy noodles will warm you right up after a few hours of thrill seeking in the chilly winter air.
Day 3
Breakfast — Lagkagehuset
On the third morning of your five days in Copenhagen, you’re bound to be tired after venturing all around the city two days in a row. To avoid a mid-trip slump—especially since you have another three days jam-packed with activities ahead of you—stop by Lagkagehuset for delectable Danish pastries and energizing coffee.
If you’ve been paying attention during your commutes, then you’ve likely already seen this popular bakery chain scattered throughout the city. Lagkagehuset can be thought of as the Danish version of Starbucks, since this beloved franchise is nearly as ubiquitous there as Starbucks is in the U.S. You can’t go wrong with any of the rustic baked bread varieties or sugary pastries lining the shelves; I’m partial to kanelsnegl paired with a Christmas latte, which is essentially a Danish cinnamon roll! Another similar chain you’ll spot around the city, since it’s the largest coffeehouse chain in Nordic countries, is Espresso House.
Christiansborg Palace
FROM: Lagkagehuset (Vesterbrogade 4, A, 1620 København, Denmark)
TO: Christiansborg Palace (Prins Jørgens Gård 1, 1218 København, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: København H → Gammel Strand via M3 toward Kongens Nytorv (3 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Another day means another Danish palace to explore! On the roster today is my favorite castle I visited while in Denmark, and the one I found to be the most informative on Danish history for those who aren’t very familiar with it.
Christiansborg Palace, situated on the islet of Slotsholmen in central Copenhagen, dates back over 800 years, with the current structure being the latest in a series of palaces constructed on the same site since the 12th century. The palace has been rebuilt multiple times after two large fires destroyed the first and second renditions of the building.
Today, Christiansborg Palace serves multiple royal and political functions, housing the Danish Parliament, Supreme Court, and Ministry of State. Additionally, parts of the palace are still used by the royal family for various functions and ceremonies, some of which are captured by photos inside the museum from as recent as 2015. Examine snapshots of royalty from around the world enjoying balls in the same reception rooms you’ll be standing in, with the continued use of these rooms making Christiansborg Palace feel the most connected to Danish royalty today.
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Begin your tour in the Royal Reception Rooms, which—like those in Rosenborg and Frederiksborg Castle—are incredibly grand, beautifully decorated, and shockingly ornate throughout each chamber. These rooms showcase a period spanning the early 20th century to the present, reflecting the contemporary era of Danish history.
Among the most notable features are the series of tapestries in The Great Hall, which were commissioned in the late 20th century to mark the 50th birthday of Queen Margrethe II in 1990. While these tapestries depict 1,000 years of notable events from the Viking Age onwards, the overall aesthetic of the Royal Reception Rooms are more representative of modern Denmark, showcasing the country's design, art, and craftsmanship. Expect to see a blend of historical themes presented through a contemporary lens, highlighting Denmark's modern evolution and identity.
From there, move on to the Ruins under Christiansborg and the Royal Kitchen. Beneath the current palace lie the ruins of earlier castles, including the remnants of Bishop Absalon's Castle from the 12th century and the subsequent Copenhagen Castle. These excavated foundations represent the earliest structures on the site and depict its architectural evolution, providing insight into medieval construction techniques.
The Royal Kitchen recreates the culinary traditions of the Danish royal household, demonstrating how royal banquets and everyday meals were prepared by displaying the original kitchen equipment, utensils, and appliances used, some dating back to the early 20th century. When I visited Christiansborg this exhibit was staged with menus, recipes, and faux food being prepared for a Christmas feast!
Garden of the Royal Library
The final Christiansborg exhibit, the Royal Stables, don’t open until 1:30 PM, so use the next 40 minutes to kill time visiting other famous landmarks.
Begin at the Garden of the Royal Library, a public green space conveniently located on Slotsholmen between Christiansborg Palace and the Royal Library. This natural oasis reflects the city’s maritime past of the 1920s, constructed on top of Christian IV's old naval port, Tøjhushavnen. Paying homage to these seafaring origins, a small pond was retained in the middle of the gardens and an old mooring ring used by ships in the 17th and 18th centuries was built in the masonry at the garden ends. Today, find blossoming beds of flowers and large cascading trees creating a serene landscape to wander through, hidden away from the busy cobblestone city streets.
Located around the same swath of land, admire the 1625 architecture of Copenhagen’s old stock exchange and maritime marketplace, Børsen. The building’s largest spire resembles four intertwined dragon tails topped with three crowns, symbolizing the Scandinavian empire of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden.
On Sundays, check out the Palace Chapel attached to Christiansborg, which is only open to the public once per week on this holy day. Otherwise, the stucco marble interior is used for royal events like weddings, baptisms and anniversaries.
If visiting in November or December, you can also walk about 5 minutes to Højbro Plads near Stork Fountain and grab a cup of hot cocoa from a Christmas market!
Once the clock strikes 1:30 PM, return to Christiansborg Palace and enter the Royal Stables. If seeing white Kladruber drafthorses and carriages used throughout the ages doesn’t excite you, then this is another attraction that it won’t hurt to miss. These stables are still a working operation with a stable master, royal coachman, drivers, and runners tending to the horses every day. Inside, meet about 20 of the large beasts which faithfully transport the Danish royal family around while admiring a collection of carriages, coaches, and smaller hitches used by royal women and children since the 1700s.
Lunch - GRØD
Walk about 15 minutes down Torvegade road and head to GRØD for lunch—it should be fairly obvious where to go since you’ll be walking over the closest bridge around this area. This restaurant chain is titled after the Danish word for porridge. Once you arrive, enjoy anything remotely soupy and chunky on the seasonal menu, from traditional Indian lentil porridge to a matcha mango smoothie bowl!
Freetown Christiania
Walk a quick two minutes to the iconic Church of Our Savior, with its dark brown façade and gold serpentine spire piercing the sky above. One of Denmark’s most famous churches, climb to the tippy top of the tower via a 400-step staircase. Since there’s no railing obstructing the view and the Church of Our Savior is more than twice as tall, the panoramic view of Copenhagen from the top is far superior to the viewing deck from the Round Tower—if you’re only going to scale one viewpoint, this church should be the one.
The last 150 steps of this ascent narrowly wrap around the exterior of the spire, meaning this stairwell can get extremely crowded during peak hours. To avoid waiting for the space to clear out, pre-book a time slot here—free of charge with the Copenhagen Card of course! Even if you don’t scale the tower, during the top of the hour hear the melodic dinging of its six large bells and complimentary 48-bell carillon.
Take another brief three minute jaunt to Freetown Christiania, one of the most unique neighborhoods in Copenhagen. This self-governed hippie commune is an independent community which broke away from the control and legislation of Danish authority in 1971 when locals invaded the military barracks and completely took them over. Pusher Street is the most notorious segment of Freetown, as an open cannabis trade takes place here in this so-called “Green Light District”—which you’re sure to smell as soon as you step onto this skunky street!
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While cannabis is technically illegal in Copenhagen, authorities have been reluctant to stop this relatively isolated trading ring, so if you’re truly desperate this is the one place where you can buy some weed. That said, if I was traveling with children I wouldn’t make the trip over here, but traveling solo I felt completely fine walking inside the complex.
Photography is strongly discouraged inside Freetown, as you can imagine the residents don’t want photographic evidence of them doing something technically illegal, so you may get some nasty looks if you whip your camera out. I snapped a few shots of artwork, statues, and graffiti inside the neighborhood and didn’t face any pushback, but as you’ll notice from the many signs telling you that photography is prohibited, I would avoid taking shots of other people or in the more heavily-trafficked areas.
Prior to coming to Copenhagen, I was heavily weighing whether or not it would be safe for me to enter Freetown. I am a young female traveling alone, and criminal activity does occur here among drug-related gangs. All that said, I built this area up into something it’s not inside my head, when in practice it’s just a bunch of makeshift buildings decorated with a more eccentric variety of artistic expression.
Pusher Street was definitely the seediest part of the neighborhood, with a few men standing around calling out to me to check out their wares, but I never felt like my safety was compromised. If you stick to the outskirts you’ll also pass a variety of eco-restaurants, workshops, galleries, and music venues offering all sorts of cultural experiences.
Pro Tip:
If you feel a uneasy but want to check out the area anyways, enter with a guide from one of the many Freetown Christiania tours offered. You won’t be alone and will benefit from the local knowledge of residents who know how to navigate the alternative community safely.
Before heading back, you would be amiss if you didn’t stop by the Ganni discount store located 5 minutes away from Freetown Christiania. This outlet has pieces from past seasons, meaning you can snag 30-50% off sales on the wonderfully colorful pieces from this coveted Danish designer. I’ve never seen deals offered on Ganni designs like the low prices I found in this store, so run—don’t walk!—if you’re already in the area.
Dinner - Vækst
FROM: Next House Copenhagen (Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark)
TO: Vækst (Sankt Peders Stræde 34, 1453 København, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli (Bernstorffsgade) → Rådhuspladsen St. via 2A bus toward Tingbjerg Gavlhusvej (3 min, direct, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Rest after another long day of adventuring, then head outside once more to enjoy dinner at Vækst. Another Michelin Guide restaurant, enter a greenhouse with hanging plants and moody lowlights illuminating the glass framework to dig into a delicious and cost-effective multi-course traditional Danish meal. The dinner is marketed as a 3-course meal, but in reality you’ll receive 5-6 dishes composed of fresh Nordic produce for the low price of $60. The menu is based upon local ingredients partial to the time of year; expect the individual dishes served to rotate depending on which fruits and vegetables are in season.
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Visiting Copenhagen in November, I enjoyed two dainty amuse bouches, fancy bread and butter, crisp scallops as my appetizer, a local whitefish topped with buttery-sauce and roe as my main dish, sides of a dill kale salad and roasted baby potatoes, and a delightful layered hazelnut dessert to finish off the night.
It’s safe to say I was stuffed by the time the last course rolled around and felt completely satisfied with the immaculately prepared, fresh, seasonal, and authentic Danish courses I was served.
A comparable meal would cost me three times as much in the states, so if you’re looking to indulge your palate with some fine dining, Denmark is definitely the place to do it!
Day 4
Stromma Canal Tour
FROM: Next House Copenhagen (Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark)
TO: Stromma Canal Tour (Ved Stranden 26, 1061 København, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: København H → Gammel Strand via M4 toward Orientkaj St. (3 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Pay homage to the seafaring past of Copenhagen by beginning your morning with a boat tour before exploring the famous colorful canals of Nyhavn and then indulging in fresh fish for lunch. With the Copenhagen Discover Card, the daily canal tours run by Stromma are an included activity! To ensure you don’t get charged extra, depart from Ved Stranden 26; if you board in Nyhavn you’ll have to pay an additional fee. Pre-book same-day tickets from the box office, located right next to the pier you’ll depart from, to ensure you have a seat on the boat during busier tourist seasons. If you try to reserve these tickets online in advance, you won’t be able to use your Copenhagen Card perk and will need to pay the total DKK 109 ticket fare.
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The earliest Stromma tours depart at 10:10 AM and 10:50 AM—arrive 10 minutes before your chosen time. Tours run year-round, with open boats patrolling the waters in the spring and summer while covered, heated boats take over in the fall and winter—the covered boats do have some outdoor seats for taking in the best views in the crisp, cold air.
These live tours are presented by local guides in both Danish and English as they talk through the history behind the narrow canals, iconic landmarks passed, as well as the historic harbor. See the famous Little Mermaid statue, the majestic Amalienborg Palace, and the old Stock Exchange building—among many other sights paired with humorous Copenhagen lore. If you’re curious about the route, the dark blue line within the Classic Canal Tour Map is the approximate path you’ll take.
After taking two different boat tours, including the Netto Canal Tour described below, I would say that your tour experience is heavily dependent on the guide you’re riding with. The first guide I had clearly enjoyed his job, speaking with clarity and an enthusiastic energy that captivated all the passengers’ attention. If you don’t love your first tour experience or couldn’t hear or understand the guide speaking, consider giving it one more shot by taking whichever canal tour experience (Stromma or Netto) you haven’t embarked on yet.
Nyhavn
After disembarking stroll over to Nyhavn, the most photographed district in Copenhagen. The route you take on this walk is critical; if you play your cards right you’ll be able to stop for a mid-walk trampoline sesh!
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Head down Ved Stranden towards the massive harbor in the middle of Copenhagen, then take a quick left on Holmens Kanal followed by the next right you can take onto Havnegade. Ending up on Havnegade is the most important part of the process—you’ll be able to tell if you’re on the right path since this street is the closest you can get to the harbor, so you’ll be looking out at the water as you stroll down this sidewalk.
Along the way walk by the park, Havnegade Promenade, and when you see Café Malmø across the street, you know you’re in the right spot. In front of you, find four in-ground trampolines built directly into the sidewalk!
Embrace your inner child and hop around for a bit before continuing onwards—it’s especially fun to try to hop across all four trampolines without touching the ground in between them.
Continue the rest of the 10 minute walk down Havnegade to Nyhavn! Nyhavn—meaning "new harbor”—was constructed in the late 17th century by King Christian V, the monarch who came after notorious castle builder Christain IV. It was a commercial port where ships from all over the world docked. One of Nyhavn's most recognizable features is the row of brightly colored townhouses along the waterfront, which encompasses one of the top attractions to visit when traveling to Copenhagen! These historic buildings have been well-preserved since the early 18th century and add to the area’s picturesque charm.
The famous Danish author Hans Christian Andersen lived in Nyhavn for several years. He resided at different addresses along the harbor, including buildings 20, 67, and 18. Today, Nyhavn is a lively area filled with restaurants, cafes, and bars. The atmosphere is vibrant and festive, making it a central social hub in Copenhagen. Snap your obligatory photos, bask in the ambiance, and grab a bite to eat before heading onwards.
Don’t make the same mistake I did—discover the history of Copenhagen’s most iconic canal district and learn how to pronounce its name properly before you accidentally butcher this Danish word in front of a local!
Kastellet
From Nyhavn, continuing walking near the waterfront down Toldbodgade. You’ll eventually come to a dead-end and need to follow your current path onto Amaliegade, at which point you will see a large green expanse laid out in front of you.
Before entering this old military complex shaped like a five-pointed star, however, stick as close to the water as possible walking down Langelinie Pier. In total it should take about 20 minutes to reach the famous—albeit quite tiny—bronze statue of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Little Mermaid. The statue is a bit underwhelming as an attraction viewed for a moment before moving on, but if you’re already in the area you might as well see this iconic symbol of Copenhagen.
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The statue was a gift from Danish brewer Carl Jacobsen to the City of Copenhagen after being enchanted by a ballet adaptation of the fairy tale he saw at the Royal Danish Theatre.
The statue commemorates this artistic inspiration and the patronage of arts in Denmark, yet the true life of this poor mermaid is far from beautiful.
As the canal tour guides detail, poor miss mermaid has been subject to relentless vandalism, from being repeatedly covered in graffiti to losing her head via decapitation three times! Hopefully when you visit, the Little Mermaid will be fully intact!
Backtrack all the way across the pier and take a right at St Alban's Church—you’ll pass a bronze fountain depicting Norse goddesses along the way. Walk across two bridges over the moats surrounding this fortress, and soon you’ll be at the gates of Kastellet! Similar to Rosenborg Castle, don’t be alarmed if you see men in uniform carrying heavy artillery—part of Kastellet is still an active military area!
Constructed in the 17th century, this is one of the best-preserved star fortresses in Northern Europe, with the well-maintained structure providing a glimpse into the military architecture of the past. Originally built as a fortress with a strategic defensive position near the sea, Kastellet played a crucial role in the defense of Copenhagen, especially during battles and sieges in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Today, Kastellet serves as a public park and cultural venue with its distinctive pentagram shape elevating you significantly above street level. Its green, well-preserved grounds are a popular spot to walk, jog, and enjoy the serene environment and various historical buildings, including barracks, a church, and a windmill. Take a lap around the outer edge of the fortress; when your stomach starts rumbling, it’s time for lunch at Damindra!
Lunch - Damindra
FROM: Kastellet (Gl. Hovedvagt, Kastellet 1, 2100 København, Denmark)
TO: Damindra (Sankt Annæ Pl. 16, 1250 København, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: Marmorkirken station → Gammel Strand via M4 toward København H (2 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Without a doubt, Damindra was the best meal I ate during my stay in Copenhagen, especially since the lunch special is probably the most cost-effective omakase I’ll ever have. The restaurant is a modest space with a small bar rail, a few dining tables, and a clear glass fish case. I adored this intimate setting since it allowed me to personally get to know the chef and owner of the establishment—a delightful Sri Lankan man who cares deeply about his craft and loves sharing recommendations for exploring Copenhagen like a local!
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Don’t dine at Damindra if you’re in a hurry; even for lunch my meal lasted about three hours!
When booking a reservation, a 200 kr deposit is required—this amounts to only ~$20 and is subtracted from the final total at the end of your meal.
I started with a delicious apple ginger sake cocktail served in a mini punch bowl, so one drink lasts you through the whole meal!
The chef's menu includes appetizers, sashimi, nigiri, uramaki, and futomaki. Each dish was delicious Japanese fusion, experimental and sometimes avant-garde. Expect melt-in-your-mouth fish so fresh it seems like they just pulled it out of the harbor.
The chef personally describes every dish to you, both in terms of the flavor inspiration and how to enjoy each morsel. The presentation of each plate is phenomenal, and the personalized service is truly the cherry on top of this superb dining experience, which all in only cost me $80!
I can’t say enough good things about this place, so if you only heed one of my restaurant recommendations, make sure it’s Damindra!
Glyptotek
Walk seven minutes down Stormgade and enjoy the rest of your afternoon admiring Carl Jacobsen’s sculpture collection at Glyptotek. The son of the Carlsberg Breweries founder, Jacobsen was a passionate art collector and his contributions form the core of the museum's assemblage—the name "Glyptotek" combines the Greek words meaning “to carve” and "repository.”
This museum houses an impressive collection of ancient sculptures spanning over 3,000 years of art history from cultures around the Mediterranean. Apart from sculptures, the Glyptotek boasts a remarkable collection of French Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, including works by Monet, Renoir, Degas, and Van Gogh.
Having never seen Egyptian art in person before, I was astounded to see statues of pharaohs and the sarcophaguses which house their eternal spirits. I was also captivated by the life exuding from these still marble rooms, with the artistic prowess of the represented sculptors capturing intense emotion in the expressions and contortions of each figure. The architecture of the Glyptotek enhances the environment, with the glass-domed roof and tropical plants of the Winter Garden creating a natural oasis in the center of the building.
Royal Danish Opera
FROM: Next House Copenhagen (Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark)
TO: Royal Opera House (Bow St, London WC2E 9DD, United Kingdom)
TRANSPORTATION: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli (Bernstorffsgade) → Refshaleøen via 2A bus toward København H (13 min, 10 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Take a breather before getting dolled up to see the Royal Danish Opera. Founded in 1748, they’ve been a significant player in the development of opera as an art form in Scandinavia and perform both classical works by composers like Mozart and Verdi and contemporary creations. The newly re-designed waterfront building is an iconic part of Copenhagen's skyline with a largely glass exterior.
Upon entering the foyer, a few different bar areas sell a selection of food and beverages. If you happen to be handed a glass bottle, you’ll also receive a plastic cup because—as I was quickly informed by a lady sitting next to me—glass is not allowed inside the auditorium.
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Although I have no prior reference, I can attest that the company’s reputation for excellence in performance, staging, and musical interpretation is completely warranted.
I watched Eugene Onegin, a Russian opera in 3 acts with 7 scenes, composed by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Having never seen an opera before, let alone one in Denmark, I was initially worried I wouldn’t understand what was going on; fortunately, there are screens hung above the stage translating the actors’ songs and dialogue into English, so I was able to follow the storyline perfectly.
This Copenhagen recommendation is another example of: you shouldn’t do this activity if you’re in a hurry! I entered the opera house for a 7:30 PM showing and didn’t exit until 10:45 PM — each act lasted an hour and there’s a twenty minute intermission to get up, hit the restroom, and grab more provisions during the breaks.
Aside from that, I was astounded by the raw talent of these performers, and their voices were some of the most beautiful I’ve ever heard. Even though this was technically quite a long show the time flew by, and at the final curtain call I was officially sold as an opera fan.
If you’re seeking unique experiences while traveling in Copenhagen, watching the Royal Danish Opera should be at the top of your list!
Pro Tip:
The seat numbering system in the auditorium is quite confusing and led me to crawl over already seated patrons. The left half of the parket, or floor seating, begins with the highest odd number, and the right half begins with the highest even number. For example, the left side could start from seat 37, then next is seat 35, etc.—enter your row from the side that corresponds to your seat number parity.
Day 5
Breakfast - Rug Bakery
Next door to København H station, find Rug Bakery with its bold, vibrant interior tucked inside the hotel Villa Copenhagen. Rug, meaning “Rye” in Danish, is Villa’s on-site bakery, serving fresh bread, traditional treats, breakfast staples, and coffee to locals and hotel guests.
Enjoy the last of your 5 day itinerary Copenhagen morning indulging in the pervasive bakery culture by lounging in the cafe’s sunlit space, or take your coffee outside to the terrace.
Black Diamond
FROM: Next House Copenhagen (Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark)
TO: Black Diamond (Søren Kierkegaards Pl. 1, 1221 København, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli (Bernstorffsgade) → Det Kongelige Bibliotek (Christians Brygge) via 26 bus toward Sankt Annæ Plads, Skuespilhuset (4 min, 3 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
After enjoying your last Danish pastry for the trip, head to Copenhagen’s famous library, the Black Diamond. Part of the Royal Danish Library, the Black Diamond contains a vast collection of books and historical manuscripts. Peruse through the exhibition spaces, concert hall, and admire the building’s striking modern architecture.
The black granite-clad façade is angled over the harbor so that on sunny days the reflection of waves makes the library sparkle like—you guessed it—a black diamond. Blending contemporary design with traditional library functions, the Black Diamond also houses a café if you’re still feeling peckish.
Pro Tip:
If the forecast is rainy, visiting the Black Diamond—as well as the Danish Architecture Center and Amalienborg Palace—are perfect indoor activities for staying warm and dry.
Danish Architecture Center
Now that you’ve warmed up your architectural enthusiasm for the day, walk a quick five minutes down the street to arrive at the Danish Architecture Center (DAC). A central hub for design enthusiasts, the DAC offers a variety of exhibitions, events, and educational programs showcasing historic and contemporary architecture.
Wander through chronological displays, beginning with insights into the foundations of mighty castles which remain standing hundreds of years later. Modern design trends are showcased Danish architects' work and "So Danish!," a permanent exhibition on Denmark’s architectural history. The last exhibitions center around urban development and sustainable architecture, with these platforms prompting social discussions about architecture's role in society.
Otherwise, skip past all the reading and head right to the interactive installations including a 40-meter spiral slide and "Aware – Architecture and Senses," which explores the relationship between spatial atmospheres and emotions. If you’ve never tried a VR headset before you’re in luck; the DAC challenges you to face your fears in an out-of-the-building virtual experience.
Amalienborg Palace
FROM: Danish Architecture Center (Bryghusgade 10, 1473 København, Denmark)
TO: Amalienborg Palace (Amalienborg Slotsplads, 1257 København K, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: Det Kongelige Bibliotek (Christians Brygge) → Sankt Annæ Plads, Skuespilhuset (Sankt Annæ Plads) via 26 bus toward Sankt Annæ Plads, Skuespilhuset (4 min, 3 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
On your last day in Copenhagen, it wouldn’t be right to leave without visiting one more palace nestled within the city center. Arguably the most modern royal feature within this itinerary, Amalienborg Palace is the winter residence of the Danish royal family. The entire Rococo palace consists of four identical façades around an octagonal courtyard. Visitors can explore several segments, including some royal reception rooms, the Amalienborg Museum, and the Palace Square.
Pro Tip:
While the museum within the palace is open to visitors, other parts of the complex are residences of the Danish royal family and not accessible to the public.
The Amalienborg Museum, part of Christian VIII’s palace, presents a chronological history of the Danish monarchy and offers insights into their life through the private interiors of the most recent kings and queens. While Rosenborg sheds light on the House of Oldenburg, Amalienborg’s focus is primarily from 1863—when Christain IX became the first monarch from the House of Glücksburg—up through the current royal family. Explore Christian X’s study to see where the King conducted his official business affairs and the Gala Hall, which is still used today for special occasions.
The most notable attraction—the changing of the guard ceremony—occurs daily at 12:00 PM. This tradition involves the Danish Royal Guard marching from their barracks at Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen, culminating at Amalienborg Palace. The guards, known as the Kongelige Livgarde or King's Life Guard, are on duty 24 hours a day.
Depending on who is residing at Amalienborg Palace, the size of the guard and the musical accompaniment varies. Although I was running late to my noon time slot, this procession is quite slow and takes about 30-45 minutes to conclude —there’s no need to arrive precisely at noon. If it’s raining, watch from inside the museum!
Pro Tip:
Due to the popularity of this attraction, reserve a free time slot online in advance to avoid waiting in long lines at the museum.
Netto Canal Tour
The Copenhagen Discover Card no longer includes the Netto Canal Tour. If you don’t want to pay extra for another activity—especially since you still get a complimentary ride on the Stromma tour—skip this section.
Unlike the Stromma Canal Tour, this 60 minute jaunt around the harbor departs directly from Nyhavn onboard a blue Netto boat. Walk 9 minutes from Amalienborg Palace to Nyhavn 1F, Copenhagen K with a red booth at the far end of the canal. Similar to the first tour, pre-book same-day tickets from this box office located next to the departure pier since there’s no way to reserve tickets online in advance.
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The earliest canal tours depart at 10:00 AM and 11:20 AM, with subsequent departures running every hour and twenty minutes after that.
The tour runs year-round, with open boats patrolling the waters in the spring and summer while covered, heated boats take over in the fall and winter.
These live tours are presented by local guides in Danish, English, and sometimes German as they talk through the history behind the scenery and the waterfront sights.
There were some slight variations I noticed between the Stromma and Netto tours, with the latter traversing deeper into Christianshavn's canal past the Church of Our Savior and through Frederiksholm's canal past the old fish market.
Expect to see the Little Mermaid statue and Amalienborg Palace again, but use this comprehensive map of the Netto route to compare the differences between both tours.
Pro Tip:
If you have time to kill before the tour, try a pølser from one of the many stands in Nyhavn! These traditional hot dogs are garnished with chopped raw onions, crispy fried onions, sliced pickles, mustard, ketchup, and Danish remoulade.
After an incredibly action-packed five days, use the rest of the day to tackle any of the activities on this itinerary you didn’t quite get to, or to just recharge your social battery!
Dinner - Mother
FROM: Next House Copenhagen (Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark)
TO: Mother (Høkerboderne 9-15, 1712 København, Denmark)
TRANSPORTATION: København H → Gammel Strand via M4 toward Orientkaj St. (3 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Indulge in one last dinner in Copenhagen while reflecting on the incredible memories you made. Walk 11 minutes down Halmtorvet from København H station to dine at Mother, an authentic Italian restaurant in the meatpacking district. Cooking up sourdough pizza in a wood-fired oven, Mother is renowned for high-quality food either sourced directly from Italy or made from organic Copenhagen produce. Their "good food for the people" and "back to nature" philosophy is evident in the use of purified seawater instead of typical salt and water for preparing the dough.
The atmosphere inside is simple and rustic, with wooden accents that contribute to a warm and inviting atmosphere. I feasted on a Salamina pie topped with tomato, mozzarella, salame, and mascarpone paired with a glass of red pulled from the selection of house wines and cocktails based on classic Italian spirits. You can’t go wrong with warm, Italian soul food—especially after the long journey you’ve had around the city. Treat yourself with a pizza from Mother!
How Much Do Five Days in Copenhagen Cost?
Following the above 5 days in Copenhagen itinerary cost me $969.61, or about $120/day as a fresh post-grad on a budget:
Food
Breakfast
$33.19 - seasonal, personalized brunch board from Mad & Kaffe
$21.50 - two coffee and Danish pastry runs made at Lagkagehuset
$48.00 - All other coffee and pastry runs (including Rug Bakery)
Lunch
$22.97 - beef tartare open-faced sandwich from Hallernes Smørrebrød in Torvehallerne
$14.32 - bowl of porridge from GRØD
$80.58 - gourmet omakase sushi lunch course at Damindra
$8.55 - Nyhavn pølser from one of the many stands around the canal
Dinner
$66.11 - cherry pork cheeks, crème brulée, and glass of rose from Fleisch
$19.36 - plate of bolognese from La Baracca in Tivoli Food Hall
$73.58 - multi-course Danish seasonal meal from the Vækst greenhouse
$38.57 - Salamina pizza and glass of red wine from Mother
$33.10 - Hostel dinner and pizza buffet from Next House Copenhagen
$20.27 - 7/11 pizza and croissant eaten as a quick snack during my Frederiksborg Castle commute
Activities
$156 - Copenhagen Discover Card which paid for all my activites and transportation!
Souvenirs
$17.07 - glass Order of the Elephant ornament from the Rosenborg Castle gift shop
$78.77 - Parket (floor level) Royal Danish Opera tickets to see Eugene Onegin
Lodging
$220.40 - 7 nights at Next House Copenhagen in a female, shared 4-pod room
$17.27- padlock and miscellaneous non-alcoholic drinks from Next House Copenhagen
I fueled myself with pretty light meals in the mornings and even some random 7/11 convenience store food when on the go to lessen my expenses, while splurging on high-quality Michelin Guide meals in the evening. If you’re someone who absolutely needs to eat three solid meals every day, you’ll likely incur greater food expenses than I did. Of course, if you stay in a fancier hotel as opposed to an economical hostel, your lodging expenses will increase as well.
On a tighter budget, skip the fine dining experiences I indulged in and the opera, or purchase a cheaper balcony ticket.
What to Wear in Copenhagen?
Visiting Copenhagen in 5 days involves embracing Scandi style. Embody the causally cool Matilda Djerf to fit into the local, understated aesthetic while still accommodating for the varied weather with versatile layers.
Local Danes prioritize comfort as much as class, so expect to see loose linen pajama pants paired with a structured wool coat. In Danish culture, fitting in is favored over standing out—see the Law of Jante—meaning the practical pieces you already have in your closet will be perfect; there’s no need to invest in a whole new wardrobe or any designer drip.
Minimalistic Tops
think simple tees, button downs, and cardigans for layering
Trench Coats
stay bundled with long wool coats that elevate an otherwise simple look
Blue Jeans
a classic staple bottom like slouchy blue jeans adds a relaxed, laidback element to your outfit
Oversized Knits
chunky knitwear exudes chic minimalism that doesn’t take itself too seriously
Dad Sneakers
thick athletic trainers ensure you’re comfortable enough to strut through this walkable city
Colorful Totes
carry all your belongings while adding a pop of color to an otherwise neutral ensemble
Is Denmark Worth a Visit?
Copenhagen greatly exceeded expectations on my first solo trip and first Scandinavia adventure! I selected Denmark as the first country I would travel alone to due to the outstanding reputation Copenhagen has as “the safest city in the world”—in my experience I found this to be overwhelmingly true!
Even with the sun setting at 4 PM in November, local Danes were out and about late into the evening, which made me feel comfortable strolling around in the darkness as well. When I returned to my hostel around midnight I saw other young women walking around by themselves, and any time I had an obvious look of confusion on my face a stranger approached me to provide guidance.
The presence of other people living their best lives outside day and night, whether it was sunny or raining, creates a satisfying sense of communal protection that I have yet to find in America —especially since we hole up inside when there’s any inclement weather. If you’re wondering when to travel to Copenhagen, the liveliness of locals I witnessed even in November convinced me there truly isn’t a bad time to explore the city, unlike other destinations with clear off-seasons.
In terms of the city, Copenhagen is a marvelous example of how proactive urban planning can shape the lives and happiness of residents. I saw bike lanes and sidewalks on every clean street, copious amounts of green space with no trash or graffiti, efficient public transportation, endless museums and third spaces, and a rich connection to the region’s history. Looking back, I was incredibly active throughout this Copenhagen 5 days itinerary—much more so than I am at home—and experienced a deep sense of peace being so close to nature whilst in the midst of a thriving city.
Although architecture is typically driven by what’s good for industry, considering what residents actually want manifests a lane like Strøget—one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe—that’s totally closed off to cars so shoppers can stroll around freely.
While Copenhagen may not be at the top of most bucket lists, I would strongly encourage anyone with a hint of curiosity about Scandinavia to start here. Copenhagen is a shining example of why cities need to be built for the people living in them, since this garners some of the highest happiness and standards of living found anywhere in the world.
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Hi, I’m Ashley. I’m determined to see the world. All of it. Are you coming with?
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