3 Days Wearing Kimonos in Kyoto
TRAVEL DATES: MAY 28-31, 2024 | EST. READING TIME: 41 MIN
IN THIS GUIDE ✺
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Does anything sound better than relaxing in a ryokan wearing a yukata robe?
A traditional Japanese haven straight out of an anime, Kyoto serves as a portal through which you can time travel back to the era of samurais and shoguns. Relax upon the tatami mats inside a ryokan, submerge yourself into a steaming onsen, or sip matcha inside a wooden tea house—the possibilities are endless!
While cities like Tokyo represent the Japan of tomorrow, Kyoto is firmly rooted in the past to ensure the otherworldly beauty of yesterday is not lost. Stroll alongside maiko and geiko in geisha-filled Gion to feel the pulse of the entertainment district, while the dense bamboo forests of the Arashiyama neighborhood invite the contemplative reflection which Zen Buddhist ideals permeating spiritual sites across the city encourage. No matter how you choose to experience it, the tranquil magic of authentic Kyoto will overcome you as you revel in this bygone era.
Three Day Kyoto Itinerary
In a hurry? Here’s a time-stamped overview of the comprehensive travel guide detailing the best things to do in Kyoto you’ll find below:
Day 1
6:00 - 8:08 AM: 🚅 Ride the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto (2 hr 8 min)
9:00 AM - 12:00 PM: 🍵 Start your day with a Kiyomizu-dera walking tour and matcha tea ceremony (3 hrs)
12:30 - 1:30 PM: 🍜 Enjoy a warm noodle lunch from Ramen Sugichiyo (1 hr)
1:45 - 3:00 PM: 🎏 Peruse the many street food and souvenir shops of Nishiki Market (1 hr 15 min)
3:00 - 4:15 PM: 🛏️ Return to your lodging to get properly settled and unpack your belongings (1 hr 15 min)
4:15 - 6:30 PM: ⚔️ Dress the part and learn to wield a katana at the Samurai Kenbu Theater (2 hrs 15 min)
7:00 - 9:00 PM: 🍱 Indulge with an omakase sushi dinner at Sushiiwa Kyoto (2 hrs)
9:00 - 10:00 PM: ♨️ Relax in the steamy onsen in the basement of the Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel (1 hr)
Day 2
9:00 - 10:30 AM: ✨ Tour the shiny gold Kinkaku-ji Temple bright and early (1 hr 30 min)
10:30 - 11:45 AM: 🗿 Head to the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple to see thousands of Buddha heads (1 hr 15 min)
11:45 AM - 1:00 PM: 🎍 Stroll through the bamboo forest of the Arashiyama neighborhood (1 hr 15 min)
1:00 - 2:00 PM: 🍲 Dig into a vegetarian shojin ryori lunch at Shigetsu (1 hr)
2:00 - 3:00 PM: 💮 Saunter through the gardens and admire the Rinzai Zen Tenryu-ji Temple complex (1 hr)
3:30 - 5:30 PM: 🎴 Explore more of the traditional tea houses and machiya townhouses in Gion (2 hrs)
6:00 - 7:00 PM: 🎎 Watch a traditional Geisha dance performance at Gion Corner (1 hr)
7:00 - 7:45 PM: 👨🏻🍳 Enjoy a bowl of ramen at the counter of Kyo Ramen Mitsuru (45 min)
7:45 - 8:30 PM: 🍶 Snag a can of beer or sake from a vending machine and walk by the Kamo River (45 min)
Day 3
8:45 - 10:30 AM: 👺 Hike the shrine walk from Mt. Kurama through to Kibune (1 hr 45 min)
10:30 AM - 12:00 PM: 🚞 Travel back to the Higashiyama ward of Kyoto (1 hr 30 min)
12:00 - 12:45 PM: 🩶 Stroll through the raked sand garden of the Ginkaku-ji Temple (45 min)
12:45 - 1:40 PM: 🌳 Wander down the Philosopher’s Path to the Nanzen-ji Temple (55 min)
1:40 - 2:00 PM: 🚕 Taxi south towards the Fushimi ward prior to your next excursion (20 min)
2:00 - 3:30 PM: 🍣 Craft your nigiri lunch in a sushi making class at the Umemori Sushi School (1 hr 30 min)
3:40 - 5:00 PM: ⛩️ Walk through the red torii gate tunnel at the Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine (1 hr 20 min)
6:30 - 9:00 PM: 🍤 Dig into a 10-course kaiseki tempura dinner at the Yoshikawa Inn ryokan (2 hr 30 min)
How to Get Around Kyoto?
WALK: As I’ve recommended in other cities, walking is usually the best way to go if the distance to your destination is anywhere between 20 and 30 minutes — and who wouldn’t want to stroll by the charming wooden tea houses of Kyoto Japan? There are two routes I’ve detailed below which you should absolutely without a doubt walk through; those being the Philosopher’s Path between Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji and the stroll through the historic preserved streets of Arashiyama.
TAXI: Most notable tourist spots have designated taxi drop-off areas, so you know there’ll be a fresh supply when you depart. Otherwise, you can request a cab in your hotel lobby or call one yourself on Uber to see the estimated wait time and duration up front. The base fare for taxis in Kyoto is ¥490, with an additional charge of ¥320 per kilometer during the day. The vast majority of taxis accept credit cards as a payment method—which you can confirm upon entering if you see a screen attached to the back of the passenger’s seat—and this nifty device can often be used for translations between yourself and the driver!
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As we regrettably learned during our first morning in Kyoto Japan—calling a taxi when it’s raining can be nearly impossible. Our hotel quoted us a 30 minute wait, Uber wouldn’t connect us with a car at all, and every cab we tried to hail on the street was already full or pre-reserved. We nearly missed our MagicalTrips walking tour due to this transportation struggle,so be sure to plan ahead if you’re commuting during a rainy day! Other than that initial hiccup, we had an incredibly easy time hailing cabs during our trip to Kyoto.
TRAIN: The public transit system in Kyoto—whether via above ground railways or underground subway lines—is extremely efficient and the most affordable way to get from here to there! Add the Suica card to your digital wallet before hopping on a train, since this digital transit card will allow you to simply scan your phone and walk through the station gates—it’s as simple as that! While do you need to upload a minimum of ¥1,000 during the initial set-up, from there you can add specific amounts, so on the last ride of your trip be sure to check the price of your route in advance and only add the remaining cash needed to reach that exact amount—otherwise you’ll have a bit of inaccessible change left over in the end.
When I returned home, I raved about how clear and simple the public transit signage is all over Japan, as I’ve consistently gotten on the wrong train in New York City yet didn’t make a single mistake in the Japanese stations that are numbered, colored, have unique names for each line, and explicitly list which stops the route will arrive at going in either direction. Oh yeah, and all the announcements made over the speakers are repeated in English! Following general train etiquette, be sure to remain quiet and keep to yourself, avoid eating and drinking, and if wearing headphones listen at a volume that won’t leak noise into the surrounding area.
BUS: Many of the same train principles detailed above apply to the bus system, with the notable exception being bus routes aren’t as precisely timed as the trains, so don’t be alarmed if your bus is running a bit late—especially if it’s raining! Some buses require you to insert coins rather than paying electronically, and if this is expected there will be two collection slots in the machine—one to insert your exact change and another to break down larger coins and bills into smaller ones if you don’t have the exact fare on hand.
How to Get from Tokyo to Kyoto?
FROM: Tokyo Station (1 Chome Marunouchi, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-0005, Japan)
TO: Kyoto Station (Higashishiokoji Kamadonocho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: Nozomi bullet train on the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen line (2 hr 15 min, 4 stops, ~$85)
The undeniably best way to reach Kyoto from Tokyo is via the shinkansen bullet train network, or high-speed railway lines in Japan known for their comfort and speed. Using magnetic levitation to float above the tracks and eliminate friction, these trains can reach top speeds of nearly 200 mph while still maintaining a remarkable safety record, as the lines in Japan have had no passenger fatalities in over 50 years of operation. When it comes to reaching Kyoto, the Nozomi is the fastest train service since it only stops at major stations with multiple departures per hour in each direction. Since time is money, why settle for anything less than the fastest option?
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To book a bullet train ride, you can either collect tickets at the Tokyo Station kiosks or pre-book a reservation online. Even on the 6:00 AM train we took out of Tokyo, the non-reserved cars seemed quite full, so if you’re on a tight schedule I’d definitely recommend locking down your preferred train in advance. Online you’ll have the option between non-reserved and reserved seats in ordinary cars, or reserved seats in first class cars — which evidently increase in price according to their class.
Heed my warning and DO NOT book your tickets via RailNinja, instead use Klook to save nearly $50 in ridiculous and unnecessary service fees. After securing your tickets online, you’ll still need to pick up two physical copies from the shinkansen kiosks on the day of your departure. This ended up being quite a quick process with in-depth instructions and photo guidance provided by Klook in advance, so no need to worry about this extra step! It is important that you keep both your tickets, however, as you’ll need to insert these in your destination station to exit the ticketed train area. In case you end up losing these tickets like my best friend did, save a copy of your digital purchase confirmation to show train station personnel who can help you exit the station.
On the train you’ll find fast free Wi-Fi, charging outlets, reclinable chairs with tray tables, and pretty much all the fixings you’d expect to find onboard an airplane. So sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride as you cruise over to Kyoto!
Pro Tip:
On the ride over, sit on the right side of the train for a potential view of Mt. Fuji. The reverse goes for the way back, during which you’ll want to sit on the left side to hopefully catch a glimpse of this notoriously elusive peak.
Where to Stay in Kyoto?
REASONABLE ROOM: Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto Premier (luxuriously large room in hotel with onsen, $295.52 for 2 nights split among 2 people)
RELAXING RYOKAN: Yoshikawa Inn (traditional Japanese ryokan with zen garden and famous tempura restaurant, $861.04 for 1 night split among 2 people)
Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto Premier
Upon checking into the Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto Premier, I was absolutely stunned at how nice our room was considering we paid less than $300 for a two-night stay—this was undoubtedly the best bang for our buck we got from any of our Japan accommodations! Located mere steps from the Kamo River, you’ll feel the relaxing natural aesthetic of this hotel as soon as you step foot into the lobby and admire the gorgeous green garden spanning the entire back wall. You absolutely cannot go wrong with this option when searching for hotels in Kyoto Japan, and from your arrival to departure you’re sure to feel the Zen vibes of the city permeating every room of this establishment.
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Upon entering your room, you’ll find free refreshments along with complimentary pajamas, robes, and slippers which you can wear when walking downstairs to enjoy the natural onsen! The simple yet modern standard double room comes equipped with a spacious bathroom and tub, comfortable mattresses and pillows made with Hungarian white duck down, and supplies for preparing tea or coffee. In addition to the indoor and outdoor baths, you’ll also find a powder area with a range of beauty supplies akin to an Equinox changing room, plus a relaxation space in front of the enclosed baths in case you’d like to simply chill out and enjoy a beverage.
Yoshikawa Inn
At least one of the nights you spend in Kyoto MUST be in a ryokan—I don’t make the rules! All jokes aside, this is one of the most authentic Japanese cultural experiences you can have, so if you splurge on nothing else I’d recommend a night in a ryokan be the one Japanese luxury you invest in. We stayed at the historic Yoshikawa Inn, known for their Tempura Counter Bar operating since 1964. The serene quietness you’ll experience in the heart of this bustling city was so calming and transformational that we decided to stay on the property the whole night to embrace this experience wholeheartedly!
Each room is uniquely decorated since this building used to be the private residence of master Chinese poet Ema Tenko, so when booking a reservation you’ll have the option to choose the available room best suited to your tastes. Originally a bed and breakfast, you’ll enter a Sukiya-zukuri structure from the early 20th century built around the “Ema Forest” Japanese garden designed by Kobori Enshu, a legendary gardener from the Edo period.
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Upon checking in, you’ll remove your outdoor shoes and step into special slippers made for walking on the tatami-matted floors worn for the duration of your stay, with mochi and green tea waiting for you as you check-in seated around a wood fired kettle. From there, your incredibly kind hosts will take you to your designated room and show you every feature—and I mean every feature—including the private onsen connected directly to your bathroom! Determined to make the most of this experience, we burned incense, played koto music accompanied by the lovely voices of geishas, read the provided guidebooks around the eastern-style seating, and enjoyed a cup of green tea sitting in the window sill. While the beds are typically not prepared until after dinner, we were sleepy girls and requested ours be made early so we could lie down for a bit—to which our request was kindly and swiftly honored! If this particular room looks appealing to you, we stayed in accommodation #10 and opted for the kaiseki tempura dinner along with a Western breakfast in the morning, which we got to enjoy in a totally new room looking directly into the luscious courtyard!
What to Do in Kyoto?
Day 1
FROM: Kyoto Station (Higashishiokoji Kamadonocho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, Japan)
TO: Yaska Shrine, Western Tower Gate (625 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0073, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: Kyoto Station → Gion via 206 City Bus towards Kitaoji Bus Terminal (21 min, 10 stops, ¥230)
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Assuming you’re coming from Tokyo, scurry off the shinkansen and head over to one of the oldest shrines for your introduction to Kyoto, Japan provided by a MagicalTrip walking tour of Kiyomizu-dera and the surrounding area. We had more than enough time to leave the train station, check into our hotel, and arrive promptly at the meeting point for the 9:00 AM tour start, so you should be able to drop your bags off before beginning the tour.
We met our lovely guide Hide outside the Yasaka Shrine, who little did we know would become our adopted Japanese grandfather by the end of the tour! MagicalTrip provides local, English-speaking guides and thus we were fortunate enough to learn the history of Kyoto’s most famous shrines from a native who’s grown up in the area! Inside the shrine dating back to 656 AD, Hide pointed out a subsidiary shrine paying homage to the deity of love and matchmaking, providing my single travel companion a few hundred yen to make an offering in a Japanese ritual of worship.
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Prior to entering the area, Hide pointed out the komainu guarding the way in, which are the two stone creatures you’ll see gatekeeping any Shinto shrine grounds. He introduced us to the concept of torii gates as the transition from the physical world to the spiritual, where we bowed before crossing and made sure to step over the physical line of division running parallel to the gate. From there we were instructed on the proper method of purifying our minds and bodies with the running water coming forth from the temizu-ya, rinsing both hands and the inside of our mouths — but, and this is an important distinction, not actually drinking and swallowing the water! All this being said, since we arrived with a local guide we were immediately introduced to proper Japanese religious customs and etiquette for visiting holy spiritual sites, which was incredibly helpful knowledge we took forth on the rest of our solo ventures to notable temples and shrines.
We continued making our way through the shrine on a regrettably rainy morning, with Hide pointing out the names of fundraising donors inscribed on paper lanterns, which we had just assumed were pretty decorations! We then strolled through the narrow streets of Japan's old capital, peppering Hide with endless questions that he happily answered. Our next stop was the vibrant Yasaka Koshin-do, where worshippers write their wishes on colorful balls and hang them on the temple. Similar to castles and churches in Europe, after a few days in Japan all the shrines and temples will start to run together—but this was by far the most unique prayer method we saw!
Traversing the quaint area of Kiyomizu-zaka, you’ll feel as if you’ve traveled back to ancient times where the traditional feel of Kyoto comes alive. Here you’ll pass historic teahouses, sweet shops, and Japanese dried food shtores as maiko and geiko glide by. Along the way your guide will snap photos for you at must-see spots—including in front of the Yasaka Pagoda—which you’ll receive via email at the end of the day.
Finally you’ll arrive at Buddhist Kiyomizu-dera, or the "Pure Water Temple," which is renowned as one of the most famous temples in Japan. Built upon the site of the Otowa Waterfall about 1,200 years ago, the wooden stage of the main pavilion is set 40 feet above the ground, granting you a breathtaking view of the surrounding forest and the city of Kyoto in the distance. Descending from the elevated overlook, you’ll get to taste a bit of the fresh waterfall by sampling the three separate streams transferring the benefits of longevity, intellectual growth, and romantic success to all who ingest this good fortune. Sanitized stainless steel cups are provided for your benefit, and given the universal desirability of these gifts you’ll likely have to wait in a bit of a line to receive them! While the first two tour stops were free, there is an entrance fee to enter Kiyomizu-dera, but you don’t have to worry since this is included in the overall tour price!
Upon saying goodbye to this incredible view, your guide will escort you to the final stop of your morning tour — an authentic Japanese tea ceremony where you’ll make and enjoy your own matcha!
Tea Ceremony Nagomi
As the birthplace and spiritual home of the Japanese tea ceremony, Kyoto promises an unparalleled matcha-drinking experience—which in this case is provided by Tea Ceremony Nagomi. The bitter powder used is sourced from Gion Tsujiri, a tea provider with a history of over 150 years in Kyoto, and due to its sharp taste Japanese sweets are provided alongside the beverage. These exclusive dry sweets come from Kiyomizu-dera and reflect the current blooming flora of the season — which in our case was green maple leaves!
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Upon entering the tranquil atmosphere of the tatami-matted tea house, our English-speaking instructor began by providing a rich history of the ceremony, describing its origins and how the particular ritual techniques have evolved through the emergence of hundreds of tea schools. From there, each step of the traditional ceremony was demonstrated, with our instructor describing the reason for each precise movement and the underlying principles conveyed by her refined manners. At this point the student becomes the teacher, and each participant is invited to select their desired tea bowl before carefully pouring a cup of hot water in the manner that was previously demonstrated. Let me just say, our skilled instructor made this step look much easier than it actually was, since my fellow participants and I cringed as our scalding water made a sizzling sound when we accidentally let it drip down the side of the kettle. Once our cups were full, we used a bamboo tea whisk to rapidly turn the authentic dark powdered green tea into a frothy matcha drink!
Lunch - Ramen Sugichiyo
Although we were supposed to say goodbye to Hide at this point, we had talked so much about the warm bowl of ramen we were anticipating eating after our cold, wet tour that he stuck around and joined us for lunch! After just coming from Tokyo, we chatted with him about sumo culture, his study abroad experience in America, and any more questions about Japan we could think of. I identified Ramen Sugichiyo with a quick Google search as our nearest open option 15 minutes away, and as a long-time Kyoto native Hide agreed — so this place has the local stamp of approval!
Inside, you’ll find quite a simple menu with two ramen variations, including a broth comprised of chicken and pork bone, back fat, and soy sauce. This ramen can be topped with additions like green onions and boiled eggs, while a few side dishes are available to order as well. From our sunken kotatsu table, we dug into fried rice alongside our ramen as we felt the warm re-enter our fingers and toes.
Nishiki Market
After lunch, we refused to let the rain spoil our first day in Kyoto—but after getting drenched for hours an indoor activity was a must. Luckily for us, the city boasts numerous covered shopping streets due to the occasionally inclement Kyoto weather, including the famed Nishiki Market where you’ll find fresh seafood, more waygu than you can imagine, and a variety of pickled fruits and vegetables. Known as "Kyoto's Kitchen," this 400-year old site is foodie heaven and will introduce you to local delicacies like yuba or tofu skin, kyo-yasai or natively grown heirloom vegetables, and tsukemono or Japanese pickles. This is the best place to experience authentic regional flavors unique to Kyoto, and you’ll likely encounter friendly vendors who will allow you to sample their goods before making a purchase. What began as a fish trade in the 17th century has evolved into a bustling food market, and today you’ll encounter over 100 stalls selling an array of sweets, dried foods, and kitchenware as the hub of must-try local cuisine and dining experiences in Kyoto, Japan.
Since we had already eaten lunch—and been to an abundance of street food markets by this point—we focused our sights on the various souvenir and sweet shops scattered throughout the vibrant atmosphere. Our first stop was the Sugi Honey Shop, where we were drawn in by free samples of sugary honey concoctions blended with natural fruit juices.
We were almost tempted to follow that up with their hive honey soft-serve, topped with a juicy piece of honeycomb, but instead satisfied our sweet tooth with taiyaki—which are essentially fish-shaped baked goods with a waffle consistency—from Nishiki Ichiha who sources these delicious sea creatures from Mamemono-to-Taiyaki, a popular sweets shop in Arashiyama.
To top off our immersion into the local culture, we popped into Kyonishiki Kanzashiya Wargo in search of kanzashi, or Japanese hair ornaments which function similarly to French twist hair pins. The kind ladies in the store were extremely knowledgeable about the usage of these hair fasteners and taught us how to easily create our own updos with only a single pin!
Samurai Kenbu Theater
We left Nishiki Market just in time walking 21 minutes to make our interactive samurai school excursion, returning back the way we came over the Kamo River to reach Gion. Hosted at the Samurai Kenbu Theater, we began our evening watching a sword performance known as kenbu, or a traditional Japanese stage art that utilizes katanas and folding fans to accompany poem voiceovers primarily written by samurai. These performances provided feudal samurai warriors with courage and a focus point for their mental concentration prior to gearing up for battle.
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With the entire performance broken up into smaller acts, in each subsequent session you’ll witness graceful, stylized sword handling movements in successive displays of fencing techniques paired with delicate folding fans which imitate various elements of the natural world. While this show was quite entertaining on its own, your appreciation for the performers’ tact will grow exponentially once it’s your turn to attempt vigorously drawing the long, heavy swords.
At this point most of the performance attendees exited the dojo, so we thought our experience was over too, but if you book via the Viator link provided you’ll get to stay behind, suit up in a samurai costume of your choosing, and practice the art of kenbu yourself! Your class time will vary depending on the length and option you selected when scheduling the excursion, with the shorter sessions omitting lessons on how to walk the shuffled samurai way, how to represent various natural phenomena with a folding fan, and more challenging katana choreography. We had unknowingly booked the longer session, unsure what was in store as we geared up in a crested kimono, hakama, white belt, tenugui towel, Japanese-style socks, and of course a katana so we now mirrored the outfits of the previous performers.
From there, we practiced the basic techniques of these ancient Japanese warriors, learning the proper method to bow as well as the tricky technique behind drawing and replacing the sword from its protective scabbard without cutting ourselves! Upon mastering these samurai skills, we moved on to more complex movements from striking the sword to learning how to wield it against potential opponents. At the end of class, we demonstrated our proficiency in these sword training methods as the whole participant group ran through a fighting sequence together before taking a million photos in our samurai outfits and receiving a certificate affirming our new skillset!
This was without a doubt the most fun thing we did as one of the top cultural experiences in Kyoto for first-time visitors—I mean, who doesn’t want to dress up and swing a sword around—so I cannot recommend this activity and the highly-skilled kenbu swordsmen who led it enough!
Dinner - Sushiiwa Kyoto
FROM: Samurai Kenbu Theatre (Japan, 〒605-0005 Kyoto, Higashiyama Ward, Sanchome, 35-7 三条花見小路東入ル GOZANビル 地下1階)
TO: Sushiiwa Kyoto (Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8155, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: Sanjo Station → Shichijо̄ Station via Keihan Main Line Limited Express Yodoyabashi (4 min, 2 stops, ¥170)
We planned to enjoy another omakase dinner at Sushiiwa, one of the first sushi restaurants in Kyoto to provide counter seating, but we were fished out and canceled our reservation in favor of Domino’s cheese pizza. You, however, should be braver than us and actually show up to enjoy this seasonally curated meal, as this famous spot serves up incredibly fresh cuts and thus has earned a coveted reputation with stellar reviews on TripAdvisor and Yelp.
Continuing today with a pioneering spirit, Sushiiwa curates a rotating offering of dishes which accentuate the flavor of the natural ingredients used, going so far as to consider the dinnerware served depending on the time of year and changing from clay to glass plates in the summer to ensure the coolness of each bite.
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To enjoy dinner here, you’ll need to submit a reservation request on their website and then additionally confirm your attendance in a follow-up email. When submitting this request, you can choose from the ¥20,000, ¥25,000, ¥30,000, or ¥50,000 chef's recommended courses depending on your budget, which does not include the 5% service charge and 10% consumption tax applied following your meal.
The difference in price determines the type and quality of fresh fish used, as the provided quantity of food is nearly the same but the parts of tuna served are quite different for example. Alternatively, you can pick from the à la carte menu, which recommends you provide an approximate budget per person. Regardless of your selection, vegetarian, gluten-free, and ingredient-specific allergies can be accommodated within these traditional cooking techniques, as well as the serving of low-sodium and low-oil dishes.
Solaria Nishitetsu Onsen
FROM: Sushiiwa Kyoto (Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8155, Japan)
TO: Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto (Japan, 〒604-8001 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 三条上る上大阪町５０９番地)
TRANSPORTATION: Kawaramachi Shomen → Kawaramachi Sanjo via 205, 5, or 7 City Bus lines (9 min, 4 stops, ¥230)
Return to your lodging after dinner—and if you’ve adhered to the brilliant travel advice provided above—then to cap off your night you’ll be able to enjoy a relaxing soak in the steamy hotel onsen! An onsen is a Japanese hot spring, notably different than hot tubs given they’re naturally heated by geothermal forces, prohibit the use of bathing suits in facilities which are separated by gender, and traditionally prohibit those with any tattoos from entering. The imperative to enter the cleansing, mineral-rich water naked means photos inside the baths aren’t allowed, but you can get a sense of our excitement for this experience judging from the mirror selfie taken in our matching, hotel-provided pajamas beforehand!
The Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel has both an indoor and outdoor rotenburo onsen, allowing you to soak in scenic views of a Zen garden while enjoying the therapeutic benefits of the communal bath. However, it’s quite important to follow traditional bathing etiquette prior to entering the onsen—which I’m specifically calling out because I lacked this information and completed the steps in reverse! You should cleanse and rinse your body and hair in the provided shower area before entering the hot water, rather than when you exit the tub.
Day 2
FROM: Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto (Japan, 〒604-8001 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 三条上る上大阪町５０９番地)
TO: Kinkaku-ji Temple (1 Kinkakujicho, Kita Ward, Kyoto, 603-8361, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (20 min, direct, ~¥2,500)
Kinkaku-ji Temple
Begin your second day in Kyoto bright and early —since you’ll want to visit Kinkaku-ji as soon as it opens at 9:00 AM to avoid massive crowds of schoolchildren! Commonly known as the Golden Pavilion, the upper two floors of the reliquary hall pavilion are completely covered in gold leaf, creating a dazzling appearance and cementing it as one of the most visually striking buildings in Japan.
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Reflecting Muromachi period architecture, each floor represents a different style—from the Shinden-zukuri, or palace style, of the first floor to the Bukke-zukuri, or samurai house style, of the second floor and finally the Karayō, or Chinese Zen hall style topping the third floor. Originally built in 1397 as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, it was later converted into a Zen Buddhist temple by Muso Kokushi of the Rinzai sect, making it a subtemple along with Ginkaku-ji under Shokoku-ji, the main temple near the Kyoto Imperial Palace. Unknown to many tourists the true name of this temple is Rokuon-ji, coming from the Buddhist name Rokuon-inden given to the founder, who was named after the place where Buddha first preached: Rokunoen.
Embodying the principles of Zen Buddhism, you’ll find the qualities of simplicity and tranquility conveyed through the natural beauty of the surrounding garden design, which complements these ideals with meticulously maintained landscapes, reflective ponds and waterfalls, and stone pathways for meditative contemplation. Entering the temple costs ¥500, and once inside you’ll find the same prayer artifacts, offering collection boxes, and subsequent street food stands common to most of the popular temples you’ll visit in Japan.
Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple
FROM: Kinkaku-ji Temple (1 Kinkakujicho, Kita Ward, Kyoto, 603-8361, Japan)
TO: Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple (2-5 Sagatoriimoto Fukatanicho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8439, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (25 min, direct, ~¥4,000)
Head deeper into the Arashiyama neighborhood to the slopes of Mount Atago where you’ll find the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple —which was undoubtedly my favorite temple we visited in Japan as one of Kyoto's top hidden gems! Unlike the crowded chaos of more popular stops like Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji, this off-the-beaten-path attraction is the epitome of peaceful serenity where you’ll be able to enjoy the relaxing sounds of flowing water and chirping birds deep in the forest. You’ll spot the most notable feature as soon as you arrive — over 1,200 moss-covered rakan statues, or followers of Buddah, which cover the hillside around the space.
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Unlike most sacred artifacts crafted by the hands of skilled artisans, these sculptures were created by everyday travelers who made the pilgrimage to learn carving under the guidance of the temple chief, Kocho Nishimura. No two expressive rakan are alike, with some serious personalities appearing to be deep in prayer while other jovial characters can be found smiling, laughing, or holding objects like a pet cat which hint at the amateur carvers’ interests.
Kocho, a statue sculptor and restorer who became a Buddhist monk himself, was appointed chief in 1955 after all previous temple variations—including the original structure built in the central Higashiyama ward—were destroyed by natural disasters like typhoons and flooding from the Kamo River, making this Kyoto’s most often-ruined temple. A 10 year period of artistic transformation followed in which reconstruction primarily involved the creation of these distinct, whimsical figures hiding within the stone.
This eclectic mix of Buddha disciples blend the earthly, humorous nature of art with sublime spirituality, making Otagi Nenbutsu-ji a truly unique site in Japan which bears no similar counterpart, and you can enter for the low fee of only ¥400!
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
While the Arashiyama neighborhood is quite a ways out from central Kyoto, since you taxied over to distant Otagi Nenbutsu-ji you can now reap the benefits of your travel and simply walk downhill through the preserved village streets of car-free Saga-Torimoto! This historic district is renowned for the traditional machiya, or townhouses, lining the road alongside other structures dating back to the Meiji and Taisho periods.
Upon exiting the temple, walk 30 minutes south to reach your lunch reservation—which is quite easy directionally since there’s really only one main route to follow. Luckily for you, the journey will breeze by as you admire the natural beauty of serene gardens maintained in harmony with the traditional aesthetic here, which has been upheld to standards of historical integrity.
Before you know it, you’ll stumble upon the lush Sagano bamboo forest which surrounds the Tenryu-ji Temple you’ll soon be approaching. The tall, ethereal forest is a testament to traditional Japanese landscaping and conservation practices aligned with Zen Buddhism, such as achieving peace and balance through nature while symbolizing strength and resilience through the important element of bamboo.
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When planning this Japan trip, I saw numerous tours of the nearby Arashiyama Bamboo Forest going for anywhere between $50 - $100, and after strolling through a comparable grove for free I can firmly attest this is the way to go—that is, unless you’re a big monkey fan and plan to visit the Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama too!
We are not, so we simply gazed upon the swaying stalks at our own pace, which interestingly enough make a tranquil sound as gentle wind rustles through their leaves that has been designated as one of the "100 Soundscapes of Japan" by the Japanese Ministry of the Environment. Keep an eye out for rickshaws as you stroll, in which a strong runner pulls guests upon a human-powered covered cart.
Lunch - Shigetsu
Upon reaching the Tenryu-ji Temple, traverse through the main entrance facing the 長辻通/府道29号 road until you reach the garden entrance, where you’ll need to pay a ¥500 admission fee before being permitted access to Shigetsu, Tenryu-ji’s Zen vegetarian restaurant. Continue following the posted signage within the garden, and soon you’ll arrive at the tatami-matted temple-style restaurant, where your tranquil experience will begin with the removal of your outdoor shoes.
For lunch, you’ll be trying shojin ryori, which was brought to Japan alongside Zen teachings exported from China in the 13th century. This school of thought regards cooking and eating as spiritual practices rather than mundane aspects of everyday life, in which the cuisine of shojin ryori thus entails nourishing meals comprised of fresh seasonal vegetables, herbs, and wild plants to sustain the body and mind without depriving animals of life along the way.
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For our lunch course, we selected the mid-range tsuki, or moon, offering which encompasses rice, soup, and 6 side dishes for the price of ¥6,500. Since the menu changes according to the season, the specifics of each dish are not posted online, and to be very honest I’m still not entirely sure what we ate.
My travel companion and I both love food and are generally pretty adventurous in what we’re willing to try, but as meat-lovers and with myself being generally adverse to vegetables—this was a tough meal to finish. Nonetheless, we did travel to Japan to experience various aspects of their cuisine, and while this wasn’t our favorite cultural meal it doesn’t mean you won’t find the offering pleasant!
If you want to give shojin ryori a try, be sure to make a reservation at least three days in advance. During the day of our visit, the restaurant was completely booked out, leading a guest attempting a walk-in to try and poach our table from us!
Tenryu-ji Temple
After finishing your vegetarian lunch, since you already paid the garden entrance fee, you may as well enjoy the natural beauty of Tenryu-ji's UNESCO World Heritage gardens while digesting your meal! Yet another Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple, Tenryu-ji was founded in 1339 by shogun Ashikaga Takauji to honor the passing of Emperor Go-Daigo, while the picturesque gardens which have remained largely unchanged since their creation were designed by Muso Soseki. Despite many of the original buildings being destroyed by fires over the centuries, the current Meiji structures continue to serve as studious places of practice for monks.
Traditional Japanese temple architecture is reflected in the Hojo—or main hall—which offers visitors another garden viewpoint and the Kuri—or temple kitchen—while traditional landscape architecture is highlighted in the Sogen Pond Garden. This is the primary fixture you’ll stroll around, in which you’ll notice a central pond surrounded by rocks, pine trees, and the scenic backdrop of the Arashiyama mountains. We were pretty templed out at this point and didn’t explore much beyond the gardens, but the overall complex includes several subtemples, halls, and other structures you may be able to access from here without paying the additional ¥300 building fee.
Gion District
FROM: Tenryu-ji Temple (Japan, 〒616-8385 Kyoto, Ukyo Ward, Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho, ６８)
TO: Gion (Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (35 min, direct, ~¥4,150)
If you’re winding down by this point in the afternoon, now would be an optimal time to rest, but we were determined to return to Gion since our first visit was treacherously rainy. Even if you had a nice sunny tour with MagicalTrip, it’s still worthwhile to peruse the area at your own pace with time to stop and explore souvenir shops that may peak your interest.
If you’re looking for another activity at this point, Gion feels like the most appropriate place in Japan to rent a kimono and get dolled up like the authentic maiko and geiko who provide entertainment within this same district. As you likely noticed during your tour, the Gion district is renowned for its traditional teahouses, geisha culture, and historic architecture.
If you’re in the mood to shop, be sure to peruse the stores lining Hanami-koji, Sannenzaka, and Ninenzaka.
If you’d prefer to simply take in the traditional aesthetic of homes protected by wooden trellises and curved bamboo barriers in this hanamachi district, then the streets of Nene-no-michi, Shinbashi-dori, Ishibei-koji lane, and the romantic, cherry blossom-lined waterway of Shirakawa lane are likely better suited for your cup of tea.
For a picturesque photo with the Yasaka Pagoda in the background, Yasaka-dori will set you up with the best composition.
If at this point you somehow feel that you haven’t seen enough Buddhist temples yet, then Kōdai-ji is conveniently located just south of the Yasaka Shrine you explored yesterday.
Gion Corner
Round out your evening with a traditional arts performance at Gion Corner. Offering 6:00 and 7:00 PM showings, over the course of 50 minutes you’ll be treated to 7 small acts in which you can experience first-hand Kyoto's entertainment district culture.
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The theater stage will first be graced with a Urasenke standing bow ceremony, which contrasts with the ceremony you observed at Tea Ceremony Nagomi as the instructor remains seated on a chair. This introduction will be accompanied by an Ikuta school performance of koto music and ikebana flower arrangement. This combined showcase is followed by a kyogen act, entailing mimetic and often exaggerated comical theater portraying the real social situations of the Muromachi period it became popularized during.
Next is the bugaku piece "Ranryo-o,” one of the oldest continuously practiced dance forms in the world introduced from mainland China as a performance for select elites in the Japanese imperial court. Set to the tunes of Gagaku music—Japan's oldest classical music—the solo performer dons an intricate Buddhist costume with a mask. Noh, another masked performance by the “shite” leading actor, is second to last and the "Hagoromo" musical drama you’ll see combines narration, or utai, and musical composition, or hayashi. While the stage itself is quite simple, the luxurious costumes are crafted from Nishijin textiles. And last but not least the main event, a graceful kyomai dance performed by geisha and maiko in their beautiful authentic garb!
Standard, premium, and tea ceremony seating options are offered for ¥5,500, ¥6,600, and ¥6,050 respectively. Photography, videography, and audio recording is prohibited inside the venue along with eating and drinking to be considerate of the performers. Late arrivals may be refused entry, so be sure to arrive with a bit of time to spare!
Dinner - Kyo Ramen Mitsuru
Craving another bowl of warm ramen after our delicious lunch the day before, we walked 8 minutes to the casual establishment Kyo Ramen Mitsuru and were quite pleased with the resulting meal! This establishment surely isn’t anything flashy or world-renowned, but for a quick and cheap meal it served its purpose perfectly — plus I’d recommend you avoid a big meal tonight since you’ll be consuming over 10 courses for dinner tomorrow!
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We placed our order on a clickable screen, specifying our desired toppings and broth style from 9 variations before taking a seat at the restaurant counter. From here, we watched the diligent chefs prepare our scrumptious soup and noodles, and as we hoped this ramen absolutely hit the spot once again! I tried the nouko tori paitan ramen, or rich creamy soup with collagen, and if you’re feeling under the weather this tasted like the perfect chicken soup-adjacent dish to fix you right up!
Day 3
Kurama to Kibune Hike
FROM: Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto (Japan, 〒604-8001 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 三条上る上大阪町５０９番地)
TO: Kurama Station (Kuramakibunechō, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 601-1112, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: Sanjo Station → Demachiyanagi Station via Limited Express Demachiyanagi Keihan Main Line and then → Kurama Station via Local Kurama Eizan Main Line (43 min, nonstop then 14 stops, ¥700)
Start your morning bright and early, taking two trains from the city center deep into the mountain range flanking the north side of town. You’ll depart at Kurama station and immediately be greeted with the glaring red face of a Japanese devil statue—and his extremely long red nose that you won’t be able to miss! This sculpture marks the beginning of your ¥300 hike through Mt. Kurama, which will take you past more than 40 notable shrines and monuments as you summit the mountain before heading back down to the town of Kibune, right outside Kibune-guchi station.
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Prior to embarking on this experience, my best friend and I wondered—is this really a hike or just a walk? Let me tell you with firsthand experience, it is most definitely a hike—albeit a paved one with handrails and hundreds if not thousands of steps—and we were huffing and puffing by the time we reached the top! You absolutely want to start from Kurama versus heading up the other way, since 36 of the 41 total landmarks you’ll see on this hike are located between that starting point and the peak. It’s pretty much uphill the whole way to the sekurabe ishi midpoint, or the stone where famous soldier Ushiwaka-maru measured his height at age 16. Luckily for you, the scenic beauty of the surrounding natural landscape is breathtaking, and with each step upwards you take you’ll be treated to better and better views of Kyoto below!
Following the 36th site of historical interest, the cedar forest mountain path weaves pretty much completely downhill from there, but it’s quite brown and barren with a few small streams cutting through the environment—which is the other reason why you should start in Kurama, so you’re treated to interesting scenes during the more taxing, uphill trek of this experience. Kurama-dera, a historic Buddhist temple founded in 770 AD, is located about halfway up and is renowned for its serene atmosphere and significance in Japanese mythology, as it’s associated with the tengu—or supernatural beings—and esoteric practices. During your descent, you’ll also pass Kifune, a Shinto shrine dedicated to the deity of water, which thus imparts water blessings and allows worshippers the opportunity to write their wishes on wooden plaques, or ema.
While I was not entirely thrilled about doing this 4.8 mile, 1 hour and 15 minute long hike when my best friend originally suggested it, it ended up being one of our favorite memories as we traversed deep into the spiritually rich natural world of Mt. Kurama, free to explore every temple and shrine with leisure as there was practically no one else on this hike! If you do one activity centered around nature in Japan, the Kurama to Kibune hike in Kyoto should be it!
Ginkaku-ji Temple
FROM: Kibuneguchi Station (Kuramakibunecho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 601-1112, Japan)
TO: Ginkaku-ji Temple (2 Ginkakujicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 606-8402, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: Kibuneguchi Station → Takaragaike Station via Local Demachiyanagi Eizan Kurama Line and then → Ginkakuji-michi via 5, 7, or 204 City Bus (55 min, 8 stops then 9 stops, ¥640)
Following your hike, commute back into the city to enjoy your final day touring temples in Kyoto.
Up next is Ginkaku-ji, also known as the Silver Pavilion, which was influenced by the previously built Golden Pavilion of Kinkaku-ji and thus follows a similar storyline. Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the grandson of Kinkaku-ji’s imperial commissioner, built this temple in 1482 to serve as his retirement reprise, but evidently it was also converted to a Zen temple later on. Unlike the obviously gold Kinkaku-ji, this pavilion is not actually covered in silver, but rather its namesake comes from the silvery appearance of the roofs’ shingles when viewed under the moonlight.
After paying an entry fee of ¥500, you’ll find remnants of Higashiyama culture—which flourished during the Muromachi period—emphasizing appreciation of traditional Japanese arts including tea ceremonies, flower arranging, Noh theater, and landscape gardening. Similar to many of the temples you’ve seen thus far, beautifully landscaped gardens surround the buildings, including a notable dry sand garden known as the "Sea of Silver Sand" and a meticulously maintained moss garden. As you’ve probably come to expect at this point, these elements reflect Zen Buddhist principles, but they also pay homage to the idea of wabi-sabi, an aesthetic centered on the beauty of imperfection and transience.
Philosopher's Path
Just outside Ginkaku-ji you’ll find the Philosopher's Path, where philosopher Nishida Kitaro famously strolled as a place of contemplation during his daily meditation walks. Running alongside the clear waters of the Lake Biwa canal, you’ll advance under hundreds of cherry trees, which during springtime bloom into a breathtaking canopy of pink cherry blossoms.
Regardless of the season, the path offers a tranquil and reflective environment, ideal for walking, meditating, or simply enjoying nature. The serene ambiance is enhanced by the gentle flow of the canal and the lush greenery surrounding it. Since you’ll be starting from the northern end, follow the canal and head south to your next stop, Nanzen-ji, passing traditional Japanese gardens, tea houses, and local shops along the way.
Spoiler alert, Nanzen-ji is yet another important Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple in Japan. We didn’t actually pay to enter this temple, instead sipping on bottles of Coca-Cola from a nearby vending machine and enjoying the peaceful scenery for free—which you’re welcome to do as well if you need to kill time before the next activity!
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Founded in 1291 by Emperor Kameyama, this temple complex includes several significant structures such as the imposing Sanmon gate, the Abbot's Quarters, and various subtemples. A physical representation of the three barriers to liberation—emptiness, formlessness, and creation—which Buddhist practitioners must overcome to attain enlightenment, you can climb up the Sanmon gate for ¥500 to bear witness to panoramic views of Kyoto.
As an active site of Zen meditation, free reflective sessions are held on the 2nd and 4th Sundays of each month if you’d like to give the tranquil practice a try! Otherwise, peruse the karesansui—or dry landscape—of the Hojo garden, notice the brick and mortar Meiji-era aqueduct that runs through the temple grounds, and admire the repository of artistic artifacts housed in the temple including, paintings, calligraphy, and other art.
Lunch - Umemori Sushi School
FROM: Nanzen-ji Temple (86 Nanzenji Fukuchicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 606-8435, Japan)
TO: Kyoto Umemori Sushi School (8 Takeda Matsubayashicho, Fushimi Ward, Kyoto, 612-8371, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (28 min, direct, ~¥5,000)
For lunch, experience first-hand the art of preparing the most famous Japanese cuisine enjoyed around the world—sushi! In this authentic sushi making class offered by the Umemori Sushi School, an English-speaking instructor will patiently guide you through the steps of crafting delicious nigiri and temaki.
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Using the same fresh quality of fish served in first class flights aboard Japan Airlines, you’ll begin the interactive session by transforming a bowl of plain white rice into sushi rice using a special vinegar concoction. From there, your host will have lots of fun bringing out the fish and guiding you step-by-step through the assembly process —from measuring out the correct weight of rice and molding it with your hands, to placing a dab of wasabi in the middle, and finally adding your fish on top with the harmonious chant of “Lasha!” sang in unison with your fellow group of students.
All of this will occur after you’ve donned a colorful chef’s apron, and the final step will rely on your creative ingenuity to top each delicious morsel however you see fit! Edible flowers, gold leaf, miso crumble, and so much more is available for you to decorate your masterfully assembled nigiri plate. Once you’re satisfied with how everything is looking, dig into the same sushi you made yourself—for better or for worse, since some sneaky pieces may pack a punch with larger wasabi dabs than originally intended—for lunch alongside a big bowl of udon and a cup of green tea.
At the end of this experience, you’ll take home a handful of souvenirs (besides a full belly), including a framed photograph with your sushi plate, a nigiri key chain, and a sushi making certificate to commemorate your experience!
Fushimi Inari Taisha
FROM: Kyoto Umemori Sushi School (8 Takeda Matsubayashicho, Fushimi Ward, Kyoto, 612-8371, Japan)
TO: Fushimi Inari Taisha (68 Fukakusa Yabunouchicho, Fushimi Ward, Kyoto, 612-0882, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (15 min, direct, ~¥1,750)
Your final shrine stop in Kyoto will be at a location you’ve most definitely seen photographed before: Fushimi Inari-taisha with its famed vermilion red torii gate tunnel! The head shrine of the kami Inari—the Shinto god of rice, agriculture, and industry—this association with prosperity and commercial success makes the site a popular destination for business owners seeking blessings for their ventures. Founded in 711 AD, Fushimi Inari is one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan and features numerous stone fox statues, since kitsune are considered messengers of Inari holding keys to the rice granary in their mouths.
The grounds include a network of trails which lead to the summit of Mount Inari, lined with 10,000 bright red torii gates known as Senbon Torii, with each bearing the name of its individual donor. Walking through these tunnels is a visually stunning experience which attracts thousands of visitors and makes for the perfect Instagram shot —that is, if you can find a segment without crowds. Along the way to the top, explore smaller shrines, enjoy scenic views of Kyoto, and experience the natural beauty of the densely forested mountain for free!
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Evidently, the beginning of this trail is a traffic jam, with gates and the crowd of people inside them packed tightly together. If you follow this slowly moving mob, it will take quite a bit of time to reach a break in the crowd. Luckily, we skipped this hassle altogether by following two swift schoolchildren who slipped through an opening in the gates and followed a dirt path running alongside the tunnel.
Following this shortcut for a few minutes, at which point the path looks like it’s about to divert right away from the torii gates, you’ll actually stumble upon a staircase leading right back to an opening where you re-enter the experience without being cramped amongst hundreds of people. Most visitors don’t walk very far into the scenic hiking trails, so skipping the original entry point and speeding through the first section of gates alongside the main path is without a doubt the best way to go — and how we captured the photos seen here!
Dinner - Yoshikawa Inn
FROM: Fushimi Inari Taisha (68 Fukakusa Yabunouchicho, Fushimi Ward, Kyoto, 612-0882, Japan)
TO: Yoshikawa Inn (Japan, 〒604-8093 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 下ル 富小路通り)
TRANSPORTATION: Fushimi-Inari Station → Sanjo Station via Semi-Express Demachiyanagi Keihan Main Line (28 min, 6 stops, ¥220)
Assuming you’re staying at the Yoshikawa Inn during your final night in Kyoto, a traditional tempura kaiseki dinner will be included in your accommodation price! Kaiseki refers to a traditional multi-course dining experience that showcases a variety of small, artfully presented dishes, otherwise considered to be the pinnacle of Japanese haute cuisine! The Yoshikawa Inn did not disappoint on this front, and to be honest we were quite stunned at the amount of food that came through the door!
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Seated at a Western-style table in a totally different room than where we slept or ate breakfast the next day, we began with a starter of seaweed noodles with sea urchin and tofu. Each of the 10 courses was individually spaced out, so our dinner ended up lasting about 2 hours and 30 minutes as we proceeded to enjoy an assorted seasonal side dish, clear soup with a fried fish ball, bonito sashimi with sliced onion, and grilled eel and eggplant before we even got to the main attraction—our tempura!
Somehow, the tempura course could have been its own dinner and we would’ve been completely satisfied, as a total of 10 fried and battered items were presented including: shrimp, eggplant, ginger, asparagus, baby corn, turban shell, Ayu lake-fish, lily bulb, taro potato, and wheat gluten. Nearly all of these options also came with a specific dipping sauce or topping to pair with the ingredient, so it was quite the interactive dinner!
The fried shrimp was undoubtedly my favorite thing served during this course, but I will say the full Ayu fish (as in the entire animal, head and tail) gave me a bit of a scare and I couldn’t finish it after taking a bite from each end. Nonetheless, we persevered and finished off the horse mackerel refreshment dish, rice bowl with mixed tempura, and mango pound cake with assorted fruit for dessert!
After eating all that insanely filling tempura neither myself nor my travel companion could finish our last dish —so in retrospect I honestly might advise eating very little this day prior to dinner, otherwise you probably won’t be able to finish every single last bite!
How Much Do Three Days in Kyoto Cost?
Following the above Kyoto itinerary ideas totaled $1,460.11, costing me $486.70 per day as a recent graduate:
Transportation
$12.76 - taxi from Shinjuku hotel to Tokyo station, split among two people
$171.18 - round trip bullet train tickets from Tokyo to Kyoto
$12.45 - taxi ride to Kyoto Umemori Sushi School, split among two people
$67.36 - all other taxi, subway, and train rides as detailed above
Food and Drink
$7.02 - ramen and half a bowl of fried rice from Ramen Sugichiyo
$5.43 - Coca-Cola bottles and snacks from Family Mart
$22.53 - Domino’s cheese pizza (instead of dinner at Sushiiwa)
$5.91 - iced caramel macchiato and hot dog from Starbucks
$7.66 - ramen dinner from Kyo Ramen Mitsuru
$3.83 - coffee during walk to Tenryu-ji Temple from Harry’s Coffee Stand
$56.59 - shojin ryori lunch from Shigetsu
$3.90 - train station coffee and waffle from Doutor
$112.60 - nigiri and udon lunch following sushi making class at Kyoto Umemori Sushi School
Activities
$88.41 - Kiyomizu-dera Temple walking tour and tea ceremony at Tea Ceremony Nagomi
$84.85 - samurai class experience at Samurai Kenbu Theater
¥500 - Kinkaku-ji Temple entry fee
¥400 - Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple entry fee
¥500 - Tenryu-ji Temple garden entry fee
$35.48 - standard seating entry ticket to the Gion Corner performance
¥300 - Mt. Kurama hike entry fee
¥500 - Ginkaku-ji Temple entry fee
Souvenirs
$95.54 - Contender Countryside Peach Bloom Sneakers from Mizuno
$15.48 - incense and floral holder from Koju on Ninenzaka in Gion
$27.43 - vintage black velvet Japanese vest with shiny floral print and diamond buttons from Roger’s
$31.62 - pink floral kimono from Golden Triangle
Lodging
$147.76 - two nights in the Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto Premier, split amongst two people
$430.52 - one night, kaiseki dinner, and breakfast in the Yoshikawa Inn, split amongst two people
Prior to planning our Japan trip, my best friend and I decided that this was without a doubt a splurge trip—and we were going to do every possible activity we could fit into our itinerary! While that worked for us, you may need to be more cost conscious, and if I were in your shoes I’d cut out the shojin ryori lunch and sushi making class from the itinerary above. We hardly ate the vegetarian meal which made it a bit of a waste, and the sushi class was a bit expensive for what it was considering we could have had a high-quality omakase dinner for less. It goes without saying, but default to public transit whenever possible if you’re on a tighter budget, and definitely explore other ryokan options instead of the Yoshikawa Inn—which was absolutely divine—but evidently was our most substantial expense as one of the many luxury ryokan accommodations in central Kyoto Japan.
If you’ve got room to splurge, consider adding in a ninja training class and be sure to account for the Sushiiwa dinner expense. You’re almost guaranteed to spend more on souvenirs than I did as well, since I held myself back tremendously on this front and there were so many instances where I could’ve caved and bought more. Assuming you have an appreciation for the finer things in life, be prepared to drop a handful of cash on a hand-painted fan, silk kimono, vintage sake, or other luxuries that you may as well get if you’re already in Japan!
What to Wear in Kyoto?
Traveling back in time to historic Kyoto encourages your clothing to reflect the traditional aesthetic. Like the geishas floating down the streets of Gion, look to convey a bit more modesty with long dresses and floral prints that will make you appear to be a blooming cherry blossom tree! While you could wear traditional American clothing here—or really anywhere you travel to—it’s much more exciting to embrace the environment around you and don dresses akin to long flowing kimonos.
Since you’ll be entering a host of spiritual sites, I would advise reflecting on your attire as if it was viewed by a Buddhist monk—which it might be! So perhaps save the crop tops and streetwear for Tokyo. Embrace countryside kawaii cuteness with girly details like puffy sleeves, but you will be doing a lot of walking too, so don’t be afraid to rock a pair of pastel sneakers while you’re at it. Speaking of color schemes, residents of Japan in general seem to favor neutral colors, so if you’re undecided on what to wear you can’t go wrong with minimalistic black and white pieces! Incorporate the following elements to craft stylish and practical outfits for exploring Kyoto Japan:
Puff Sleeves
lean into your demure side with puffy balloon sleeves that radiate romantic princess charm
Modest Maxis
respect the integrity of the spiritual shrines you’ll be visiting with modest maxis that still allow for a girly moment
Floral Fabrics
exude kawaii cuteness in floral fabrics reminiscent of blooming cherry blossom trees
Maiden Skirts
long tiered skirts add to the countryside aesthetic that will make you look straight out of Miyazaki’s The Wind Rises
Simple Black Slip
neutral colors reign supreme here, and you can’t go wrong with a simple black dress on a summer day!
Stylish Sneakers
a sneaker moment in Japan is always a yes since their street-style is unmatched — you’ll be walking all day as is!
Should Kyoto be at the Top of Your Travel Bucket List?
“YES!” I shout from the top of Mount Kurama —Kyoto is nearly the most magical place I’ve ever experienced in this lifetime (second only to Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland). I truly cannot capture the beauty of the city in words, or even more importantly, how calm and content it will make you feel. Kyoto treated me to some of the most unique activities I’ve ever had the pleasure of engaging in—from wielding a katana sword to walking under thousands of red torii gates to hiking a mountain that just so happens to have more than 40 shrines on it! The best part is that each of these experiences is truly authentic to historical Japanese practices, as the residents take great pride in honoring and preserving the ways of the past with a noble dedication I have yet to see replicated anywhere else in the world.
I’m now convinced everyone needs to experience the magic of Kyoto at least once in their lifetime—even moreso than Tokyo or Osaka—and if you’re even slightly a fan of anime this destination will sparkle in your eyes with an even greater vibrance. I’m so inspired by this city that I want to return and visit at least once during every season, so I can bear witness to the miracle that is the blooming cherry blossom spring and the vibrant warm-hued hillsides of autumn. While strolling through the Arashiyama neighborhood I started plotting how I could acquire a vacation home here one day, and I’ve already locked down a rejuvenating Kyoto trip as a must following the birth of any children. Needless to say, a literal 72 hours here has already convinced me to center any future major life events around returning to this idyllic flower town, and there’s really no more I can convey so that you’ll fully understand—you just need to make the trip here yourself and I guarantee you’ll see what I mean!
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Kyoto Customized Map (Google Maps)
✺ ABOUT ME ✺
Hi, I’m Ashley. I’m determined to see the world. All of it. Are you coming with?
I recently graduated, and I’m convinced I can travel and keep my job.
While I respect the digital nomads, van life, and the hardcore backpackers—that’s just not me.
It’ll take a lifetime, but I’m convinced I can make it to all 195 countries before my time is up.
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