5 Day Hygge Holiday in Copenhagen
TRAVEL DATE: NOVEMBER 11-18, 2023 | EST. READING TIME: 40 MIN
IN THIS GUIDE ✺
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Looking to embrace Scandi style in one of the safest cities in the world?
From the colorful Nyhavn waterfront to the historic charm of surrounding cities like Hans Christian Andersen's hometown, Odense, traveling to Copenhagen captivates visitors with its storied past. Embrace the Danish concept of "hygge" in cozy cafes or cycle past picturesque windmills and castles, common public features highlighting Denmark's seamless blend of tradition and progress.
Delight in the innovative urban planning shaping the layout of the city and admire the timeless beauty of UNESCO-listed sites like Kronborg Castle, which inspired the Shakespearean tale Hamlet. Copenhagen’s progressive societal ethos, rooted in sustainability and happiness, is evident even while basking alongside the charming canals as you watch electric ferries glide by with a multipurpose waste-to-energy plant you can ski down in the background!
Five Day Copenhagen Itinerary
In a hurry? Here’s a time-stamped overview of the detailed guide you’ll find below, with all of the top attractions to visit when traveling to Copenhagen. Aside from the opera and Tivoli tickets, all listed activities and the public transport required to reach them are completely covered by the Copenhagen Discover Card, which is one of the best ways to travel to Copenhagen affordably.
Day 1
9:15 - 10:00 AM: 🍳 Brunch at Mad & Kaffe (45 min)
10:30 AM - 12:30 PM: 🏰 Explore Rosenborg Castle (2 hr)
12:35 - 2:00 PM: 🌴 Admire flora in the Botanical Garden and Palmehuset Greenhouse (1 hr 25 min)
2:05 PM - 3:00 PM: 🥪 Lunch at Torvehallerne (55 min)
3:10 PM - 3:30 PM: 🗼 Gaze out from the Round Tower (20 min)
3:35 - 5:00 PM: 🛍️ Browse Scandi design stores on Strøget (1 hr 25 min)
5:00 - 7:45 PM: 🥱 Rest and get ready for dinner (1 hr 45 min)
8:00 - 9:30 PM: 🍖 Dinner at Fleisch (1 hr 30 min)
Day 2
9:00 - 9:45 AM: 🚆 Travel to Hillerød via the S-commuter train (45 min)
9:45 - 10:15 AM: 🏘️ Walk through Hillerød (30 min)
10:15 AM - 1:15 PM: 🏰 Wander around Frederiksborg Castle (2 hr)
1:15 - 2:15 PM: 🏡 Stroll around the Frederiksborg Castle Gardens (1 hr)
2:30 - 3:45 PM: 🚉 Head back to Copenhagen (1 hr 15 min)
4:00- 6:00 PM: 🛌 Relax (2 hr)
6:00 - 9:00 PM: 🎢 Ride rollercoasters at Tivoli Gardens (3 hr)
9:00 - 10:00 PM: 🍽️ Grub out at Tivoli Food Hall for dinner (1 hr)
Day 3
9:30 - 10:00 AM: ☕ Get energized with coffee and pastries from Lagkagehuset (30 min)
10:15 AM - 12:45 PM: 🏰 Tour the rooms, ruins, and kitchen of Christiansborg Palace (2 hr 30 min)
12:45 AM - 1:05 PM: 🌼 Meander through the Garden of the Royal Library (20 min)
1:05 - 1:25 PM: ⛪ Snap a photo of the Palace Chapel and Børsen (20 min)
1:30 - 2:00 PM: 🐎 Return to the Royal Stables (30 min)
2:20 - 3:05 PM: 🥣 Refuel with lunch GRØD (45 min)
3:05 - 4:05 PM: ☮️ Explore Freetown Christiania and ascend the Church of our Savior (1 hr)
4:05 - 7:05 PM: 😌 Chill out (3 hr)
7:30 - 9:00 PM: 🍵 Multi-course Michelin meal at Vækst (1 hr 30 min)
Day 4
10:10 - 11:10 AM: 🚤 Cruise through the canals on a Stromma tour (1 hr)
11:20 - 11:30 AM: 🤾🏼♀️ Bounce along trampolines built into the sidewalk! (10 min)
11:35 AM - 12:00 PM: 🛟 Travel to Copenhagen’s most famous district, Nyhavn (1 hr 25 min)
12:20 - 12:25 PM: 🗿 Wave to Han Christain Anderson’s, The Little Mermaid (5 min)
12:30 - 1:00 PM: 🌬️ Admire the windmill at Kastellet (30 min)
1:10 - 1:05 PM: ⛪ Pop into the marble wonder, Frederik's Church (5 min)
1:15 PM - 3:15 PM: 🍣 Indulge in an omakase lunch at Damindra (2 hr)
3:25 - 5:00 PM: 🖌️ Examine artwork in Glyptotek (1 hr 35 min)
5:00 - 7:00 PM: 💤 Chillax (2 hr)
7:30 - 10:45 PM: 🗣️ Get dolled up for an evening at the Royal Danish Opera (3 hr 15 min)
Day 5
9:00 - 10:00 AM: 🥐 Munch on your last breakfast at Rug Bakery (1 hr)
10:20 - 10:55 AM: 📚 Peruse through the Black Diamond (35 min)
11:00 AM - 12:00 PM: 🏬 Grow your knowledge at the Danish Architecture Center (1 hr)
12:20 - 1:20 PM: 👑 Observe the changing of the guards at Amalienborg Palace (1 hr)
1:30 - 1:45 PM: 🌭 Try a Danish pølser in Nyhavn (15 min)
2:00 - 3:00 PM: ⛴️ Cruise down the harbor on a Netto Boat Tour (1 hr)
3:00 - 7:00 PM: 🪫 Go to anything you didn’t get to from the itinerary, or recharge your social battery (4 hr)
7:00 - 8:30 PM: 🍕Enjoy one last dinner at Mother (1 hr 30 min)
How to Get Around Copenhagen?
Before we dive into the specifics of Copenhagen, it’s important to make sure you’re properly equipped to travel around the city with ease. Specific mode of transport aside, the Copenhagen Discover Card is going to be your ticket to getting the most bang for your buck while visiting the capital of Denmark. This card gives you unlimited access to all public transport in the entire capital region including the Metro, buses, commuter-trains (S-trains), regional trains, local trains and harbor-buses (aka the ferries you’ll spot whirring by in the canals). It’s important to know that this “capital region” includes travel to towns outside Copenhagen (like Roskilde, Helsingør, Hillerød and more), empowering you with the flexibility to take day trips from the city center! You can find a map of all 99 zones you’re permitted to travel in here — which includes transport to and from the airport.
Pro Tip:
Train stations are typically above ground with commuter, regional, and local trains passing through them. On the other hand, the Metro is an underground subway —so, if you put a destination in your preferred map app and the mode of transit has an “M” next to it (like M3 for example), this means you need to find a Metro entrance with a big red M on it and head underground. Don’t wander cluelessly around a train station looking for the “M3” train like I did!
If you’re in a rush or have specific time-bound activities to attend to, note that out of all the public transport options I found the bus system to be the least reliable. With bus line 26 in particular, there were a few times where I waited outside for 20+ minutes to no avail, when according to the schedule three buses should’ve come by already. At that point I just took matters into my own hands and walked wherever I was headed, but should you need to get somewhere quickly I’d recommend the Metro, train, and ferry transport options over the bus.
If the perk of unlimited public transit wasn’t exciting enough, the Copenhagen Discover Card also includes access to 80+ attractions inside and around the city — which from my experience includes pretty much any tourist activity you could think to do in Copenhagen. These included attractions range from museums and palaces to theme parks and boat tours, meaning that regardless of your personal interests the Discover Card includes enthralling attractions for everyone.
Depending on the length of your trip and intended amount of transit, the Copenhagen Discover Card could be a huge cost saver — and save you the headache of purchasing tickets every time you’re on the go. If you’re not sure if the card is worth it for your particular itinerary, use the handy Savings Calculator to see how much you can save with one of the best ways to travel to Copenhagen affordably! The Discover Card is offered in 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 day variations, with the cost per day decreasing as the number of days included in the card increases.
The Copenhagen Card is technically offered in two different variations: Discover vs. Hop. In my humble opinion, there’s absolutely no reason to by the Hop Card considering it includes half as many attractions, only allows you to ride Stromma’s Hop On-Hop Off buses, and is somehow more expensive than the Discover Card. Why would you want to pay more for only 40+ attractions which you have to take a stinky open-air double decker bus to get to?
When using the Copenhagen Discover Card, it’s also important to note that:
No Revisits - You can visit as many attractions in a day as you wish, however, the Copenhagen Card entitles the cardholder to one visit per attraction regardless of the card type. In other words, re-visits are not included.
Consider Reservations - Rosenborg Castle, Amalienborg Castle, and Church of Our Saviour require pre-booking a time slot directly through the attractions’ own websites. You can find instructions on how to pre-book tickets free of charge within the individual descriptions of each attraction, which are linked above.
Show Your Card - You do not have to tap the card on stations or stops before boarding public transit. Instead, you simply have to present your active and valid Copenhagen Card to any ticket inspectors aboard upon request. Onboard buses, present your card to the driver.
Stay Valid - Your card must be valid throughout your entire journey, whether you’re traveling by bus, train, harbor bus, or Metro. It’s your responsibility to make sure the card is valid and does not expire mid-journey.
i’m counting 13 bikers in this lane
This seems like a good place to also say: be warned if you’re a tourist expecting to bike around the city for fun. I had seen a TikTok before my trip to Copenhagen that interviewed a local Dane promoting this same warning, but I really didn’t understand what she meant before I got there — once I saw the pure density of bikers occupying the lanes all around the city, I realized this was extremely valid advice.
If you’re going to rent a bike in Copenhagen, you’re going to be jam packed in a single file line of 20+ bikers, peddling in a narrow lane mere inches from traffic. You’re also going to benefit from some knowledge of hand turn signals so you can indicate where you’re headed to oncoming traffic. In practice, the biking infrastructure around the city is top notch, with bike lanes designated on nearly every road and gutter rails built into staircases so you can easily roll your bike up steps; however, if you’re not very comfortable on a bike this probably isn’t the best place to try it out.
How Many Days Should You Spend in Copenhagen?
TL;DR: You need at least 5 days to really explore the city and surrounding area of Copenhagen, especially if you visit in the winter.
When I first started planning my travel to Copenhagen, I continually saw advice from travel bloggers online that “you only need to spend 3 to 4 days in Copenhagen,” with some suggesting that this duration was even too long. Given that I was taking the full week off of work, and all of my past trips to Europe had involved zipping between cities every 1 to 2 days, I ignored this common recommendation — and I’m sooo glad I did.
In actuality I spent a whole week in the city, combining all of my outings into the action-packed 5-day itinerary you’ll find below. I chose to embark on this extended stay in Denmark’s capital since I was visiting in the winter, which may not be the best time to travel to Copenhagen since limited daylight is the norm, with the sun setting around 4 PM every day. Even if you’re an early riser (like I tried to be on this trip), that’s really not a lot of time to sightsee while the sun is still out. Additionally, traveling to Scandinavian in the winter means you’re likely to encounter some not-so-great weather more often than not — think frigid gray days with rain whipping around your head. This is completely to be expected considering the northern latitude you’re traveling to, but it also limits your ability to enjoy outdoor activities in a city chock full of public green spaces and urban community centers. Only visiting for 3 or 4 days simply lessens the chance that you’ll encounter beautiful blue sky days which enhance your canal tours and garden strolls that much more. A Portuguese solo traveler who stayed in my hostel room had heard this same advice and expressed her great regret to me that she had only booked a 3-day stay, as she had to fly through the city without much time to soak in the hygge spirit or go on any day trips to landmarks outside the city center. All this being said, if you intend to take any day trips or if you simply want to enjoy the majority of the attractions Copenhagen has to offer, I’d recommend booking at least a 5-day stay during your travel to Copenhagen.
Where to Stay in Copenhagen?
LODGING: Next House Copenhagen (~$30/night in a female 4-bed dorm with flexible booking)
FROM: Københavns Lufthavn stop (bus stop outside Copenhagen airport)
TO: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli (Bernstorffsgade) stop
TRANSPORTATION: 5C bus (34 min, 23 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 30)
Next House Copenhagen is the most luxurious yet simultaneously most cost-effective hostel I’ve ever stayed in (out of the three I’ve stayed in during my travels thus far). I’ve always said I’m not a hostel person, and really only stay in them as a last-ditch money-saving effort, but Next House may be the hostel to change my mind.
I booked a female shared 4-bed dorm with flexible booking that allowed me to cancel and fully refund my reservation up until 3 days before my arrival date for only $220 total, meaning my average cost per night was a mere $31 during the seven nights I spent in Copenhagen. This price was truly insane to me and quite literally too good to pass up considering I’m used to spending more than that on a single meal back home. For higher rates there’s also twin, double, and private rooms. I saw people from all walks of life staying at Next House from couples and solo travelers to families with young children; the various room arrangements can really work for any type of traveler.
When it comes to the sleeping situation, Next House dorms are arranged in either 4 or 6-pod rooms. The stacked pods mimic bunk beds, but the enclosed walls make them feel quite private and dark so you can actually get a good night’s sleep. When you arrive, you’ll find a towel in your pod along with a comforter — there’s also a pocket mounted to the wall within each pod to hold your small personal items plus two outlets in the ceiling. If you stay for more than 4 days you’re guaranteed to have your bed re-made with fresh sheets and a new towel, but since the other guests in my room quickly cycled through I found my bed re-made with clean sheets pretty much every day. You can also request a fresh towel for DKK 25 and have your bed made with fresh linens for DKK 50 at any time.
the standard 4-bed dorm, pod set-up in Next House Copenhagen
You’ll be sharing these rooms with 3 or 5 other travelers max, but I found that not every bed was filled every night, and most guests only stayed for a day or so. You’ll all be sharing a bathroom and shower, but the hostel provides soap and shampoo (and luckily the water was perfectly hot every time I used the shower). In the dorms, each guest also has their own locker to store valuables, and if you don’t have a lock you can buy one at the front desk for ~$5.
The true beauty of Next House, however, lies in its expansive amenities and weekly activities. The building is HUGE and encompasses:
a massive cozy lounge where travelers gather during the day and night
a nightlife venue with a full-bar (one of five on the property), live music, and weekly themed dance parties
a rooftop terrace and bar with a 360-degree view overlooking the city
a stocked gym available for DKK 20 next to an indoor stadium where dodgeball and soccer can be played, along with yoga and pilates classes for DKK 20 offered every week
a game room with foosball, shuffleboard, pool, and various board games plus mini golf Mondays
an atmospheric cinema that can seat 30 guests for movie and sport match screenings
a fully equipped luxury self-service kitchen and an in-house eatery serving breakfast for DKK 69 and oven-baked pizza dinners for DKK 129
free wifi, self-service washer and dryers for DKK 20 each, luggage store lockers for DKK 20 per every 3 hours, and bike rentals for DKK 125 per day allowing you to explore the city on your own terms
free guided walking tours with a local guide from Politically Incorrect Tours by your side, departing daily from the reception at 10:20 AM and ending around 12:30 PM at Amalienborg Palace
Next House guest common space
But that’s not all! As a first time solo traveler, I was ecstatic to see that Next House offers three events every single day that are specifically catered towards solo travelers looking to meet other guests embarking on a similar journey. Every day at 10:00 AM kickstart your day with a coffee meetup called Get Tip-sy where you can meet other travelers and learn about exploring Copenhagen like a local traveler with tips from the friendly Next House staff. After a long day exploring the city, relax with a free pint of beer during Hostel Hour from 5:00-7:00 PM daily in the lounge. This is yet another opportunity to connect with other hostel guests and share your day's experiences. And if that wasn’t enough, my favorite solo traveler event has to be the communal Hostel Dinner, once again offered daily for DKK 69 at 7:00 PM. If you’re not familiar with the Danish exchange rate, that’s approximately ~$10 for an all-you-can-eat home-cooked meal you’ll share with travelers from all corners of the globe — that’s probably the cheapest meal you’ll find in all of Copenhagen!
Pro Tip:
Even though they are exclusively aimed at solo travelers, there’s a limited number of Hostel Dinner seats available every night, so be sure to reserve your spot at the reception in the morning if you plan to join the event in the evening!
What to Do in Copenhagen?
FROM: København H station (Copenhagen’s central train station)
TO: Enghave Plads station (walk 5 minutes to reach Mad & Kaffe)
TRANSPORTATION: M3 toward Frederiksberg (9 min, 0 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Day 1
Brunch — Mad & Kaffe
Start your first day in Copenhagen with a delectable brunch highlighting the Danish small plates concept you’ll find offered in various breakfast spots across the city. From 8:30 AM onwards every day at Mad & Kaffe, you choose the elements on your brunch board yourself, so you can enjoy any combination of small plates — you’re also welcome to choose the same dish several times!
Upon entering the cozy cafe, you’ll be offered a checklist upon which you’ll indicate which of the three, five, or seven dishes you’d like to taste. The menu rotates seasonally, with various bakery, dairy, protein, green, and dessert options available. The menu also indicates which plates have gluten, nuts, dairy and which are vegan or vegetarian friendly, so it’s the perfect place to take travel companions with a range of food preferences and restrictions.
Visiting Copenhagen in November, I enjoyed the croissant, greek-inspired yogurt, Danish bacon, scrambled eggs, and gingerbread on a gloomy rainy morning. I found each and every plate to be absolutely scrumptious, clearing out my brunch board and washing everything down with a warm elderflower connection called a “Winter’s Hug.” Reservations aren’t offered for breakfast, so you’ll just need to show up and wait to be seated!
my brunch board at Mad & Kaffe
Rosenborg Castle
FROM: Dybbølsbro St. station (walk 9 minutes from Mad & Kaffe)
TO: Nørreport St. station (walk 4 minutes to reach Rosenborg Castle)
TRANSPORTATION: S-commuter train lines A, B, or C (20 min, 3 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
One of four Danish palaces we’ll be exploring in this itinerary, Rosenborg Castle sheds light on the House of Oldenburg which reigned over Denmark from 1448-1863.
Stepping into the immaculately preserved homes of past monarchs is the closest I’ve gotten to living out my Bridgerton royal fantasies. Aside from showcasing the most outrageously ornate gold and silver furnishings in maximally-decorated parlors, this particular landmark also houses historic weapons in the armory, handcrafted amber and ivory art pieces, and old royal memorabilia including two crowns with the BIGGEST sapphire I’ve ever seen.
Rosenborg is located in the center of Copenhagen in the middle of Kongens Have. Upon approaching this beautiful brick building, you may notice men in uniform walking around some pretty big guns. Luckily there’s no need for alarm, as these Life Guards are present to guard the entire Danish treasury, which for 400 years has taken care of Danish kings and queens’ most precious treasures in the basement under Rosenborg Castle. The castle was originally built in 1606-1607 as a summerhouse by order of King Christian IV, who was a bit of a Danish visionary and ordered the construction of all four castles featured in this itinerary.
inside Christian IV’s winter room of Rosenborg
Beginning in Christian IV’s Winter Room, you’ll walk through 30 rooms across three floors depicting the chronological life, art, and furnishings of House of Oldenburg monarchs from Christian IV through Frederik VII. If you’re thinking, who are these people and why do I care, then you may have reached the same conclusion I did at the beginning of my trip: I don’t think I learned a single thing about Danish history in all my years of schooling. Maybe it’s the American emphasis on, well, ourselves, but I quickly realized that all the facts presented in the various Copenhagen museums were completely foreign to me. Luckily, Rosenborg Castle, as well as the other featured castles, do an amazing job of making this centuries-long timeline digestible and honestly quite interesting.
Take for instance the royal sense of humor depicted in the Dark Room, which houses a specially constructed chair that would lock the guest seated in place with concealed armrest constraints before wetting their pants and letting out a “toot” upon release. Talk about the enduring, universal appeal of fart jokes. On the historical side, each monarch is featured in a different room with exhibits and mementos dating from the time of their rule. Every single room, portrait, and piece of furniture is so intricately crafted and decorated that it’s easy to get lost in thought just staring at the beauty of everything around you — the Knight’s Hall on the second floor is a particularly ornate ballroom with coronation thrones guarded by three silver lions that I absolutely recommend you check out.
Denmark’s jeweled absolute monarchy crown
The basement, however, is where the real magic happens. You’ll find weapons and Rosenburg wine barrels, including a Colt revolver given to Frederik VII by an envoy of Abraham Lincoln. Looking at the royal riches present throughout the castle, I was shocked and had a hard time comprehending that these artifacts were even remotely related to that period of American history, but this time-bending revelation made the landmark even more interesting. Continuing through the cellar is a room entirely dedicated to ivory and amber art, more princely presents, astronomical machines, and last but not least, the treasury. Stock full of coronation regalia, most of the featured pieces stem from the period of absolute monarchy, meaning the hereditary kings had total power. In other words, the crowns, scepters, and swords from this period were DECKED OUT in jewels.
Although Rosenborg Castle is free to enter with the Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 130 otherwise, the space is a bit narrow and cramped; To mitigate crowding, only a certain number of visitors are allowed inside during a specified time slot. To avoid having to wait to enter the castle, it’s recommended you pre-book a ticket and arrive at your designated entrance time.
Check out the King’s Garden around the castle before you leave the area — the rose garden to the right of the moat is particularly enchanting with crisply-manicured hedges shaped like stars flanking the rose beds.
Palmehuset
the twirling spiral staircase inside Palmehuset!
Directly across the street from Rosenborg Castle is the National Museum of Natural History’s botanical garden, spread over 10 hectares comprising the biggest plant collection in Denmark. Enjoy this expansive green space within the city, strolling amongst various sections showcasing Danish plants, perennial plants, annual plants, rock gardens with mountainous plants, and a Conifer hill encompassing over 13,000 unique species. During the summer season, you can also explore a butterfly house for a small fee.
The highlight of this natural oasis is a tropical palm house called Palmehuset dating back to 1874. Each of the various green houses connected within this elaborate glass structure are temperature controlled, allowing an environment suitable for Arctic plants to be cultivated in one room while another dry, hot section of the greenhouse is packed with desert cacti. Entry is free with the Copenhagen Discover card, or DKK 60 otherwise.
In the center-most greenhouse, you’ll find the towering palms trees which give Palmehuset its name. On the ground floor you’ll find sculptures tucked amongst tree trunks and palm fronds, or you can scale the cast-iron spiral staircase to observe the treetops from above. The tall, narrow steps lead 16 meters upwards towards a circular platform which wraps around the entirety of the domed glass roof.
Pro Tip:
If you’re visiting Copenhagen in the winter and want to escape the cold for a bit, the heated greenhouses within Palmehuset are the perfect balmy oases to warm your hands in.
Lunch - Torvehallerne
Once you’ve gotten your fix of looking at plants, take a five minute walk over to Torvehallerne, an urban covered marketplace featuring high quality stalls with local crops, gourmet foods, beverages & desserts.
Wander through speciality stands offering fresh produce and food bars representing cuisines from all over the world which are predominantly sustainable and organic. Regardless of your dining preferences, you’re sure to find something scrumptious suited to your taste at one of the top attractions to visit when traveling to Copenhagen.
Hallernes smørrebrød counter in Torvehallerne
If you’re looking for recommendations, Hallernes Smørrebrød is a famous Danish chain serving up “the best smørrebrød in Copenhagen,” a Danish staple. Smørrebrød is an open-faced sandwich built on a thin layer of dense sourdough rye bread called rugbrød with the name of the sandwich coming from the Danish words for butter and bread. I ordered the steak tatare variation for DKK98 with freshly minced organic beef tartare, pickles, horseradish, onion, capers, and served with organic egg yolk on top. To be very honest, I found the dish to lack flavor with the dense bread contributing to the overall bland taste. I may have just chosen a subpar version of smørrebrød, but when in Denmark, it’s worth trying at least once.
Other highlights in Torvehallerne include Granny’s House which sells traditional Danish rum ball desserts called romkulger, Summerbird for chocolate-coated marshmallow treats called flødeboller, and the Coffee Collective to taste arguably some of the best coffee in Copenhagen. Being that highly regarded, you can expect to wait in a loooong line before being able to order a cup of joe.
Round Tower
street-level view of Rundetaarn
Once you’re fed and rested, stroll down the street to Rundetaarn, or the Round Tower. Also commissioned for construction by Christian IV in 1637, the Round Tower is part of the Trinity Complex comprising the Observatory at the top of the tower, the University Library above the Trinity Church, and the church itself below. Built using the royal colors of red and yellow, the tower interior ascends into the air via a spiral ramp you can climb to reach the upper viewing deck with a 360-degree view of Copenhagen. Along the way, you’ll pass a planetarium at the upper end of the spiral ramp displaying the current planetary positions. In the center of the exterior viewing deck sits Europe’s oldest functioning observatory which you can use to gaze at the stars above. If you have a Copenhagen Card you might as well make the visit, but the novelty of the towers wears off quickly — so I only spent about twenty minutes total here. Otherwise you’ll have to pay DKK 40, in which case I’d say this is one tourist attraction you can definitely skip, and you won’t miss out on much either way.
Strøget
After a long morning spent learning about Danish history, it’s time to kick back and relax in the afternoon with some retail therapy. Likely the most famous street for shopping in Copenhagen, Strøget is a pedestrian-only, car-free walkway lined with luxury designer stores and Danish boutiques alike. Since you can find storefronts like Gucci and Zara anywhere, I’d recommend exploring some Scandinavian design concept stores to really get a pulse on local aesthetics and maybe even pick up a souvenir for living room while you’re at it:
I snagged the left-most teal lamp
Hay House — A contemporary furniture and design store carrying pieces for modern living, Hay House is the perfectly staged Scandi store of your dreams. I wanted to buy EVERYTHING in here, and was particularly obsessed with all the colored glass kitchenware. With my luggage stuffed to the brim already, I decided not to risk it and opted for a small portable, color-blocked lamp and a few patterned candlesticks — with the caveat that I need to buy more from their website now that I’m home. If you’re only going to stop in one store, this should be the one!
Notre Dame — A roomy home goods shoppe with an emphasis on Nordic designers, you can find decor, gifts, and stationary galore inside Notre Dame. Compared to the large furnishings in Hay House, Notre Dame seems to specialize more in decor and accessories adding pops of color and funky patterns to your space. Consider this mackerel serving dish they’re highlighting online as a good representation of the fun pieces you can expect to find inside.
studio arhoj’s ceramic interior!
Studio Arhoj — I am OBSESSED with this last store and still beating myself up over the fact that I went inside and didn’t buy anything. Part-store, part-glass blowing and ceramic workshop, Studio Arhoj brings their hand-made decor to life using a cast of characters to categorize their selection. Skip the pet rock and opt for a crystal blob or ghost ceramic with emotional eyes that bring each piece to life. If you’re looking for something with a little less animism, they also sell dishes and glassware ranging from tiny sake cups all the way to large plates and bowls. Even if you’re not in the mood to buy something, you might as well stroll inside to watch as they make these creations live with a full kiln and glass-blowing set-up inside the store!
Dinner - Fleisch
cranberry pork cheeks and Danish rose wine
I decided to book a dinner reservation at Fleisch after seeing it recommended on the Michelin guide, and could not have been more happy with my decision. Serving as both a butcher selling high-quality meats and a restaurant serving up those same provisions for diners, Fleisch delivers simple rustic dishes that pack a punch. Serving traditional smørrebrød at lunchtime, I dined there for dinner in hopes of enjoying (in my opinion) an extremely-reasonably priced five-course tasting menu. This “butcher’s menu” includes three seasonal appetizers, two choices for the main course, and a dessert to top it all off for only DKK 465 (or about $70). Unfortunately for me I was so stuffed and tired that by the time I got to dinner, I just ended up ordering their winter pork cheeks with a glass of Danish rose wine and a caramel crème brûlée for dessert — in other words, I didn’t order the tasting menu although I probably spent the same amount going ala carte. Nonetheless, my meal was divine, the pork cheeks were some of the most buttery, melt-in-your-mouth pork I’ve ever encountered — and the cranberry sauce dressing the meat was the perfect winter treat.
If you happen to be solo traveling to Copenhagen, Fleisch has a bar counter you can sit at, which coincidentally looks directly into the servers’ drink prep area. Since I was essentially staring at the kind Fleisch employees during my meal, I ended up chatting with two of them throughout the entirety of my meal. Dining alone can be intimidating enough as is, so I truly appreciated the kind warmth from both of these local Danes as we discussed our respective cultures — and I was quickly informed that the colorful canal street Nyhavn is pronounced “noo-houn” not “nie-haven”… oops!
Day 2
Frederiksborg Castle
FROM: København H station
TO: Hillerød St. station (walk 20 minutes through town to reach Frederiksborg Castle)
TRANSPORTATION: S-commuter train line A (44 min, 17 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 74)
You’ll begin Day 2 in Copenhagen with the longest public transit ride that will appear in this itinerary, but I promise the destination is worth the wait — and the commute is conveniently simple if you’re staying around central Copenhagen! You’ll ride from the city center towards the town of Hillerød, passing many suburbs and smaller neighborhoods along the way.
Once your train pulls into Hillerød, you’ll depart and begin a quick 20-minute jaunt through the small town. Following Slotsgade, the main road running through Hillerød, will take you past a variety of shops and restaurants where you can stop for a quick bite to eat before continuing on towards Frederiksborg Castle. Although this view is partially blocked while in the commercial section of town, the winding road curves ever so slightly around Lake Slotssøen, with the end of Slotsgade dropping you off directly at the entrance to the castle. If you’re in a hurry, you could alternative ride one of the local buses — line 301 towards Ullerød or line 302 towards Sophienlund — and get off at the stop “Frederiksborg Slot.”
Upon arriving at the castle entrance, you’ll cross over a bridge leading you between protective walls before entering the central plaza where you can finally admire Frederiksborg Castle in its full glory. Out of all the castles that will be covered in this itinerary, Frederiksborg is clearly the most massive with vibrant green rooftops, whimsical bell tower spires, and an impressive moat surrounding the entirety of the structure.
Given its location about an hour outside of Copenhagen, this is likely the least crowded tourist attraction you’ll encounter as well — which I found extremely enjoyable as I was able to get lost in the castle’s ambiance without worrying about making my way through crowded, cramped rooms like those in Rosenborg Castle.
Frederiksborg Castle was built by a name you’re likely familiar with at this point — King Christian IV — in the early 17th century and is the largest Renaissance complex in the Nordic region. The aim of all the buildings and palaces he commissioned was to enhance Christian IV’s status as a powerful European monarch and to show off the great aptitude of Denmark. Since 1878 Frederiksborg Castle has housed The Museum of National History, which presents 500 years of Danish history with a collection of portraits, history paintings, furniture and applied art.
Whereas Rosenborg Castle walks you through a chronological timeline of a portion of Danish history, Frederiksborg Castle is moreso a showcase of paintings, portraits, and statues within the rooms of the castle. If that doesn’t sound all that thrilling, I was so captivated by the grand ornateness, specifically the walls and ceiling of the Chapel and Great Hall— that I would say Frederiksborg is definitely worth the visit even if you just like looking at beautiful things. The castle also features various exhibits which are rotated out every few months; when I visited I was fortunate enough to witness an interactive staging of iconic ceilings in the castle which were brought to life via lighted visual overlays, sound, and an accompanying audio guide titled “Magical ceilings.”
Pro Tip:
There is a correct way to walk through the castle (as I was kindly informed by a staff member). Begin in the room with the smallest number, as depicted by wooden numbers above each rooms’ doorframe or by using the physical or digital castle guides, and continue on from there in ascending numerical order.
Frederiksborg Castle Gardens
If fancy royal rooms aren’t really your thing, then I’d even argue that Frederiksborg Castle is worth a visit for the insanely stunning Baroque garden laid out behind the castle’s lake. As the style of the age dictated, it was symmetrically constructed with perfectly straight hedges, geometrically-trimmed trees, and massive monograms constructed from flower beds and shrubbery. This intricate craftsmanship has dubbed the castle and surrounding landscape: the “Danish Palace of Versailles.”
looking back at Frederiksborg Castle from the Baroque royal garden
The four royal monograms depicted are representative of Frederik IV, Frederik V, Christian VI and Margrethe II — the current Danish monarch and the world's only current queen regnant — as these are the four monarchs under whom the complex has existed, from Fredrik IV’s creation to its recreation in Queen Margrethe’s time. Parallel to the strict symmetry of the Baroque garden is a romantic landscape with free-growing wooded forests, large grassy hills areas, lakes, streams and meandering paths. This contrasting juxtaposition depicts varying ideals throughout Danish history, with the idyllic free nature with a landscape that requires constant upkeep to maintain. Whichever half of the royal gardens you prefer, a stroll through this natural oasis is bound to be a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Before heading back into town, pop by Café Havehuset for lunch, situated away from the castle towards the end of the intersection between the Baroque and romantic gardens. Once you’re ready to return to Copenhagen, follow your original commute in reverse: walk from Frederiksborg Castle to Hillerød St. station, ride the S-train line A for 17 stops, and depart at København H station.
Tivoli Gardens
illuminated starry Tivoli entrance
Treat yourself to a proper rest after trekking all the way to Hillerød, but once you’re ready for more action, your night-time adventures will begin at Tivoli Gardens, which is next door to København H station. Unlike the actual gardens you just visited at Frederiksborg Castle, Tivoli Gardens is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world filled with thrilling coasters, exotic architecture, and historic buildings. You’ll be visiting Tivoli in the evening because it comes alive at night, with thousands of colored lights creating a fairytale atmosphere that inspired the likes of Hans Christain Anderson and Walt Disney in the creation of Disney World.
The rides align with the architecture you’ll find within Tivoli, with nostalgic features paying homage to the park origins while other modern fixtures have been developed to wow thrill seekers. Built in 1914, the wooden Roller Coaster is one of the oldest in the world while the newer steel Demon will flip you head-over-heels through a daring loop. Depending on when you visit, you’ll find the entire park decked in accordance with the current theme, whether that’s Halloween, Christmas, winter, or summer.
While the Copenhagen Discover Card will get you inside the park for free, you’ll have to dole out extra cash if you want to ride any of the attractions. Assuming you’re not looking to purchase a year-long pass, you can expect to pay DKK 169, 259, or 299 depending on whether you purchase the Ride Pass Mini, Ride Pass, or Ride Pass Plus.
Pro Tip:
When transitioning between seasons, Tivoli Gardens is closed for about a week. If you’re set on visiting this attraction, ensure your dates don’t fall within this closure period (like my trip unfortunately did — I visited while the Christmas season was being prepared).
Dinner - Tivoli Food Hall
watch your pasta get made live!
After an action-packed day, refuel at the Tivoli Food Hall situated on the outer corner of the amusement park facing København H station. Similar to the Torvehallerne Food Hall, you’ll find a range of international and local cuisines catering to various tastes represented in the food stands scattered throughout the long dining hub. Considering you’ve already spent a few hours trekking outside the city, this convenient yet high-quality option is the perfect place to enjoy dinner after exploring the historic theme park.
Embrace the lively atmosphere and savor different flavors, or simply opt for comfort food and pull up a chair at La Baracca like I did. Recognized by Registro Eccellenze Italiane in 2019 for serving up “homemade fresh Italian pasta,” I most definitely agree with this award and can personally vouch for the mouth-watering delight that is their bolognese pasta. The full plate of thick-cut, fresh doughy noodles will warm you right up after a few hours of thrill seeking in the chilly winter air.
Day 3
Breakfast — Lagkagehuset
kanelsnegl with a Christmas latte
Waking up on the morning of your third day in Copenhagen, you’re bound to be a little tired after hopping all around the city two days in a row. To avoid a mid-trip slump — especially since you’ve got another three days jam packed with activities ahead of you — I recommend stopping by Lagkagehuset for delectable Danish pastries and energizing coffee.
If you’ve been paying attention during your commutes so far, then you’ve likely already seen this popular bakery chain scattered throughout the city! You can think of Lagkagehuset as the Danish version of Starbucks, since this beloved franchise is nearly as ubiquitous there as Starbucks is in the U.S. You can’t go wrong with any of the rustic baked bread varieties or sugary pastries lining the shelves; I myself am partial to kanelsnegl paired with a Christmas latte, which is essentially a Danish cinnamon roll! Another similar chain you’ll spot around the city, since it’s the largest coffeehouse chain in the Nordic countries, is Espresso House.
Christiansborg Palace
FROM: København H station
TO: Gammel Strand station (walk 3 minutes to reach Christiansborg Palace)
TRANSPORTATION: M3 toward Kongens Nytorv (3 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Another day means another Danish palace to explore! On the roster today is my absolute favorite castle that I visited while in Denmark, and the one which I found to be the most informative on Danish history for those who aren’t very familiar with it.
Christiansborg Palace, situated on the islet of Slotsholmen in central Copenhagen, dates back over 800 years, with the current structure being the latest in a series of palaces constructed on the same site since the 12th century. The palace has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times after two large fires destroyed the first and second renditions of the building.
Today, Christiansborg Palace serves multiple royal and political functions; It houses the Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State. Additionally, parts of the palace are still frequently used by the Royal Family for various functions and ceremonies, some of which you’ll find photos of inside the museum from as recent as 2015. I was intrigued to examine these snapshots of royalty from around the world enjoying balls in the same reception rooms I was standing in, with the continued use of these rooms making Christiansborg Palace feel the most alive and connected to the Danish royalty of today.
You’ll begin your tour in the Royal Reception Rooms, which like those in Rosenborg and Frederiksborg Castle, are incredibly grand, beautifully decorated, and shockingly ornate in the details depicted throughout each chamber. These rooms showcase a period of time spanning from the early 20th century to the present, reflecting the contemporary era of Danish history. Among the most notable features are the series of tapestries in The Great Hall, which were commissioned in the late 20th century to mark the 50th birthday of Queen Margrethe II in 1990. While these tapestries depict 1000 years of notable events from the Viking Age onwards, the overall aesthetic of the Royal Reception Rooms are more representative of modern Denmark, showcasing the country's design, art, and craftsmanship. You can expect to see a blend of historical themes presented through a contemporary lens, highlighting Denmark's modern evolution and identity.
From there, you’ll move on to the Ruins under Christiansborg and the Royal Kitchen. Beneath the current palace lie the ruins of earlier castles, including the remnants of Bishop Absalon's Castle from the 12th century and the subsequent Copenhagen Castle. These excavated foundations represent the earliest structures on the site and depict its architectural evolution, providing insights into medieval construction techniques. The Royal Kitchen, provides a glimpse into the culinary traditions of the Danish royal household, demonstrating how royal banquets and everyday meals were prepared using the original kitchen equipment, utensils, and appliances, some dating back to the early 20th century. When I visited Christiansborg, this exhibit was staged with menus, recipes, and faux food being prepared for a Christmas feast.
Garden of the Royal Library
The final Christiansborg exhibit, the Royal Stables, doesn’t open until 1:30 PM, so you’ll use the next 40 minutes to kill some time wandering around the area and visiting other famous landmarks. Begin your jaunt at the Garden of the Royal Library, a public green space conveniently located on Slotsholmen between Christiansborg Palace and the Royal Library. This garden oasis dates back to the maritime past of the 1920s, as it was constructed on top of Christian IV's old naval port, Tøjhushavnen. Paying homage to these seafaring origins, a small pond was retained in the middle of the gardens and an old mooring ring used by ships in the 17th and 18th centuries was built in the masonry at the garden ends. Today, you’ll find blossoming beds of flowers and large cascading trees creating a serene landscape to wander through, hidden away from the busy cobblestone city streets.
Located around the same swath of land, you should also take some time to admire the 1625 architecture of Copenhagen’s old stock exchange and maritime marketplace, Børsen. The building’s largest spire resembles four intertwined dragon tails topped with three crowns, symbolizing the Scandinavian empire of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. If you happen to visit Copenhagen on a Sunday, you should also check out the Palace Chapel attached to Christiansborg, which is only open to the public once per week. Otherwise, the beautiful stucco marble interior is used for royal events like weddings, baptisms and anniversaries. If you’re visiting Copenhagen in November or December, you can also walk about 5 minutes to Højbro Plads near Stork Fountain and grab a cup of hot cocoa from a Christmas market!
Once the clock strikes 1:30 PM, return to Christiansborg Palace and enter the Royal Stables. If seeing large white Kladruber drafthorses and royal carriages used throughout the ages doesn’t excite you, then this is another tourist attraction that it won’t hurt to miss. I, on the other hand, am a huge horse girl, so this was an extremely exciting stop for me. These stables still function as a working operation with a stable master, royal coachman, drivers and runners tending to the horses each and every day. Inside, you’ll not only see about 20 of the large beasts which faithfully transport the Danish royal family around, but you’ll also get to admire a collection of carriages, coaches, and smaller wagons and hitches used by the women and children of the royal family since the 1700s.
Lunch - GRØD
At this point in the day you’ll likely be feeling a bit peckish, so it’s time to walk across the canal and head to GRØD for lunch. This restaurant chain is titled after the Danish word for porridge, which can be everything from sweet oat porridge to savory risottos. Walk about 15 minutes down Torvegade road to get there — it should be fairly obvious where to go since you’ll be walking over the closest bridge around this area. Once you arrive, you’ll be able to find anything remotely soupy and chunky on the seasonal menu, from traditional Indian lentil porridge to a matcha mango smoothie bowl.
Freetown Christiania
Now back to sightseeing. Walk a quick two minutes to the iconic Church of Our Savior, with its dark brown facade and gold serpentine spire piercing into the sky above. One of Denmark’s most famous churches, entry into this establishment will allow you to climb all the way to the tippy top of the tower via a 400-step staircase. Since there’s no railing obstructing your view and the Church of Our Savior is more than twice as tall, I would argue that the panoramic view of Copenhagen you’ll see from the top is far superior to the viewing deck from the Round Tower —so if you’re only going to walk up to one viewpoint, this church should be the one.
As you can see from the photo, the last 150 steps in the ascent narrowly wrap around the exterior of the spire, meaning this stairwell can get extremely crowded during peak hours. To avoid waiting for the space to clear out, pre-book a time slot here — free of charge with the Copenhagen Card of course. Even if you don’t plan to scale the tower, if you’re around the church during the top of the hour you’re sure to hear the melodic dinging of its six large bells and complimentary 48-bell carillon.
Take another brief three minute jaunt to Freetown Christiania, one of the most unique neighborhoods you’ll witness in all of Copenhagen. This self-governed hippie commune is an independent community which broke away from the control and legislation of Danish authority in 1971 when locals invaded the military barracks there and completely took over. Pusher Street is the most notorious segment of Freetown, as an open cannabis trade takes place here in this so-called “Green Light District” — which you’re sure to smell as soon as you step onto this skunky street. While cannabis is technically illegal in Copenhagen, authorities have been reluctant to stop this relatively isolated trading ring, meaning if you’re truly desperate this is the one place you can buy some weed. That being said, if I was traveling to Copenhagen with children I don’t think I would make the trip over here, but traveling solo I felt completely fine walking inside the complex.
It’s important to note that photography is STRONGLY discouraged inside Freetown, as you can imagine the residents don’t want photographic evidence of them doing something illegal, so you may get some nasty looks if you whip your camera out. I snapped a few shots of artwork, statues, and graffiti inside the neighborhood and didn’t face any pushback, but as you’ll see from the many signs telling you that photography is prohibited, I would avoid taking shots of other people or in the more heavily-trafficked areas.
Prior to coming to Copenhagen, I was heavily weighing whether or not it would be safe for me to enter Freetown. I am a young female traveling alone, and criminal activity does occur here among drug-related gangs. All that being said, I think I had built this area up in my head when in practicality it’s just a bunch of makeshift buildings decorated with a more eccentric variety of artistic expression. Pusher Street was definitely the seediest part of the neighborhood, with a few men standing around calling out to me to check out their wares, but I never felt like my safety was compromised. If you stick to the outskirts you’ll also pass by a variety of eco-restaurants, workshops, galleries and music venues offering all sorts of cultural experiences.
Pro Tip:
If you still feel a little uneasy but want to check out the area anyways, I recommend entering with a guide from one of the many Freetown Christiania tours, since you won’t be alone and will benefit from the local knowledge of residents who know how to navigate the alternative community safely.
Before heading back to the mainland of Copenhagen, you would be amiss if you didn’t stop by the Ganni discount store located 5 minutes away from Freetown Christiania. This outlet has pieces from past seasons, meaning you’ll be able to snag insane 30-50% off deals on the wonderfully colorful piece from this coveted Danish designer. The local client advisor Magnus was delightful to chat with, and if this designer name isn’t ringing a bell off the bat, I’m sure you’ve seen their $400 Chunky Buckle Slingback Ballerina Flat that has taken this season by storm. I’ve never seen deals offered on Ganni designs like the low prices I found in this store, so run — don’t walk! — if you’re in the area.
Dinner - Vækst
FROM: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli (Bernstorffsgade) stop
TO: Rådhuspladsen St. stop (walk 3 minutes to reach Vækst)
TRANSPORTATION: 2A bus toward Tingbjerg Gavlhusvej (3 min, direct, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Take a good few hours to rest after another very long day of adventuring, then head outside once more for the day to enjoy dinner at Vækst. Another restaurant I pulled off the 2023 Michelin Guide, I was completely BLOWN AWAY by how delicious and cost-effective this multi-course traditional Danish meal ended up being. You’ll enter a greenhouse-looking structure with hanging plants and moody lowlights illuminating the glass framework. The dinner is marketed as a 3-course meal, but in reality you’ll receive 5-6 dishes composed of fresh Nordic produce for the low price of a mere $60. As with all of the divine restaurants I’ll recommend in this guide, the menu is based upon local ingredients partial to whichever time of year you’re visiting during, so you can expect the individual dishes to rotate depending on which fruits and vegetables are in season.
Visiting Copenhagen in November, I enjoyed two dainty amuse bouches, fancy bread and butter, crisp scallops as my appetizer, a local whitefish topped with buttery-sauce and roe as my main, sides of a dill kale salad and roasted baby potatoes, and a delightful layered hazelnut dessert to finish off the night. It’s safe to say I was stuffed by the time the last course rolled around and felt completely satisfied with the immaculately prepared, fresh, seasonal, and authentic Danish courses I was served. As mentioned many times above, a comparable meal would likely cost me three times as much in the states, so if you’re looking to indulge your palate with some fine dining, Denmark is definitely the place to do it!
Day 4
Stromma Canal Tour
FROM: København H station
TO: Gammel Strand station (walk 1 minutes to reach Ved Stranden 26)
TRANSPORTATION: M4 via Orientkaj (3 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Today you’re going to pay homage to the seafaring past of Copenhagen by beginning your morning with a boat tour before exploring the famous colorful canals of Nyhavn and then indulging in fresh fish for lunch. Assuming you purchased the Copenhagen Discover Card, the daily canal tours run by the company Stromma are an included activity! However, to ensure you don’t get charged anything extra, you’ll need to depart from Ved Stranden 26; if you board the boat in Nyhavn, you’ll unfortunately have to pay an additional fee. It’s also recommended that you pre-book same-day tickets from the box office, located right next to the pier you’ll depart from, to ensure you have a seat on the boat during busier tourist seasons. If you try to reserve these tickets online in advance, you won’t be able to use your Copenhagen Card perk and will once again need to pay the total DKK 109 ticket fare.
canal tour view from inside a Netto boat
The earliest canal tours depart at 10:10 AM and then 10:50 AM, so depending on how early you wake up I’d plan to arrive 10 minutes before your chosen tour time. The tours run year-round, with open boats patrolling the waters in the spring and summer while covered, heated boats take over in the fall and winter — these covered boats do still have some seats situated outside though, so if you want to take in the best views in the crisp, cold air you’ll have that opportunity as well. These live tours are presented by local guides in both Danish and English as they talk through the history behind the narrow canals, iconic landmarks you’ll pass, as well as the historic harbor. You can expect to see the famous Little Mermaid statue, the majestic Amalienborg Castle, and the old Stock Exchange building — among many other sights paired with humorous Copenhagen lore (if you’re super curious about the route, the dark blue line within the Classic Canal Tour Map is the approximate path you’ll take).
After taking two different boat tours, including the Netto Canal Tour described below, I would definitely say that your tour experience is heavily dependent on the guide you’re paired with. The first guide I had clearly enjoyed his job, speaking with clarity and an enthusiastic energy that captivated all the passengers’ attention. So if you don’t really love your first canal tour experience or couldn’t hear or understand the guide speaking, you may want to give it one more shot by taking whichever canal tour experience (Stromma or Netto) you haven’t embarked on yet.
Nyhavn
After disembarking from the boat, you’ll stroll over to Nyhavn, arguably the most photographed district in all of Copenhagen. The route you take on this walk is critical, because if you play your cards right you’ll be able to stop for a mid-walk trampoline sesh.
Head down Ved Stranden towards the massive harbor in the middle of Copenhagen, then take a quick left on Holmens Kanal followed by the next right you can take onto Havnegade. Ending up on Havnegade is the most important part of this process, and you’ll be able to tell if you’re on the right path since this street is the closest you can get to the harbor, so you’ll be looking out onto the water as you stroll down this sidewalk. Along the way you’ll walk by the park, Havnegade Promenade, and when you see Café Malmø across the street, you know you’re in the right spot. In front of you, you’ll find four in-ground trampolines built directly into the sidewalk! Embrace your inner child and hop around for a bit before continuing onwards — it’s especially fun to try to hop across all four trampolines without touching the ground in between them.
Continue the rest of the 10 minute walk down Havnegade, and eventually you’ll reach Nyhavn! Nyhavn, which means "New Harbor," was constructed in the late 17th century by King Christian V (note that this is the monarch who came after the notorious castle builder Mr. Christain IV). It was a commercial port where ships from all over the world would dock. One of Nyhavn's most recognizable features is the row of brightly colored townhouses along the waterfront, which encompasses one of the top attractions to visit when traveling to Copenhagen. These historic buildings have been well-preserved since the early 18th century and add to the area’s picturesque charm.
The famous Danish author Hans Christian Andersen also lived in Nyhavn for several years. He resided at different addresses along the harbor, including No. 20, 67, and 18. Today, Nyhavn is a lively area filled with restaurants, cafes, and bars. It's a popular spot for both locals and tourists to enjoy outdoor dining or a drink, especially in the warmer months. The atmosphere is vibrant and festive, making it a central social hub in Copenhagen. Snap your obligatory photos for the gram, bask in the ambiance, and grab a bite to eat before heading onwards.
Kastellet
From Nyhavn, continuing walking near the waterfront down Toldbodgade. You’ll eventually come to a dead-end and need to follow your current path onto Amaliegade at which point you should start to see a large green expanse laid out in front of you. Before entering this old military complex shaped like a five-pointed star, however, you’ll want to keep sticking as close to the water as possible, walking down Langelinie Pier. In total it should take you about 20 minutes of walking to reach your destination, which in this case is the famous (albeit quite tiny) bronze statue of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Little Mermaid. In all honesty the statue is a bit underwhelming, and is pretty much one of those attractions you look at for a moment before saying “okayyy, let’s go,” but if you’re already over here you might as well go see this iconic symbol of Copenhagen. If you’re in a rush, you really won’t miss anything that you couldn’t just look up a photo of online.
the Little Mermaid statue
The statue was a gift from Danish brewer Carl Jacobsen to the City of Copenhagen, after being enchanted by a ballet adaptation of the fairy tale he had seen at the Royal Danish Theatre. The statue commemorates this artistic inspiration and the patronage of arts in Denmark, yet the true life of this poor statue is far from beautiful. As the canal tour guides will tell you, poor miss mermaid has been subject to relentless vandalism, from being repeatedly covered in graffiti to losing her head via decapitation three times! Hopefully when you visit, the Little Mermaid will be fully intact!
Once you’ve gotten your fix of looking at this statue, backtrack all the way across the pier and take a right when you spot St Alban's Church — you should pass a bronze fountain depicting Norse goddesses along the way too. Walk across two bridges carrying you over the moats surrounding this fortress, and soon you’ll be at the gates of Kastellet! Similar to Rosenborg Castle, don’t be alarmed if you see men in uniform carrying heavy artillery around — part of Kastellet is still an active military area! Constructed in the 17th century, this is one of the best-preserved star fortresses in Northern Europe, with the well-maintained structure providing a glimpse into the military architecture and defensive strategies of the past. Originally built as a military fortress with a strategic defensive position near the sea, Kastellet played a crucial role in the defense of Copenhagen, especially during battles and sieges in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Today, Kastellet serves as a public park and cultural venue with its distinctive pentagram shape elevating you significantly above street level. Its green, well-preserved grounds are a popular spot to walk, jog, and enjoy the serene environment and various historical buildings, including barracks, a church, and a windmill. Take a lap around the outer edge of the fortress; when your stomach starts rumbling it’s time for lunch at Damindra!
Lunch - Damindra
FROM: Marmorkirken station (walk 14 minutes from Kastellet)
TO: Gammel Strand station (walk 6 minutes to reach Damindra)
TRANSPORTATION: M4 toward København H (2 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Without a doubt, Damindra was the best meal I ate during my whole stay in Copenhagen. This is said with the caveat that I’m a huge seafood person and go crazy for sushi, especially when I’m dining omakase, so if the thought of raw fish makes you squeamish I’d skip this recommendation.
Now for my sushi lovers, the lunch special at Damindra is probably the most cost-effective omakase you’ll ever have. The restaurant itself is a modest space with a small bar rail, a few dining tables, and a clear glass fish case. I adored this intimate setting, since it allowed me to personally get to know the chef and simultaneous owner of the establishment—a delightful Sri Lankan man who cares deeply about his craft and loves sharing recommendations for exploring Copenhagen like a local traveler. The other caveat here is that you should not dine at Damindra if you’re in a hurry; even when just enjoying lunch I believe my meal lasted about three hours! When booking a reservation, you’ll note that a 200 kr deposit is required to reserve your spot — this amounts to only about $20 and subtracted from the final total of your check at the end of your meal.
In terms of the food itself, the chef's menu reflects the kitchen's selection, including appetizers, sashimi, nigiri, uramaki, and futomaki. I started out my meal with a delicious apple ginger sake cocktail which is effectively served in a mini punch bowl, so one drink should last you through the whole meal. Each dish that came next was a delicious Japanese fusion, experimental and sometimes avant-garde. Expect to taste melt-in-your-mouth fish so fresh it seems like they just pulled it out of the harbor. The chef describes every dish, both in terms of the inspiration behind the flavors and how to enjoy each morsel. The presentation of each plate is phenomenal, and the personalized service is truly the cherry on top of this superb dining experience, which all in only cost me $80! I can’t say enough good things about this place, so if you only heed one of my restaurant recommendations, make sure it’s Damindra!
Glyptotek
If Damindra doesn’t send you into a food coma slumber, then walk for seven minutes down Stormgade and enjoy the rest of your afternoon admiring Carl Jacobsen’s sculpture collection at Glyptotek. The son of the founder of the Carlsberg Breweries, Jacobsen was a passionate art collector, and his contributions formed the core of the museum's collection. The name "Glyptotek" combines the Greek words meaning “to carve” and "repository.” This museum houses an impressive collection of art, particularly known for its assemblage of ancient sculptures spanning over 3,000 years of art history from cultures around the Mediterranean, including Egypt, Rome, and Greece. It also features a significant collection of French and Danish art from the 19th and early 20th centuries. Apart from sculptures, the Glyptotek also boasts a remarkable collection of French Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings, including works by artists such as Monet, Renoir, Degas, and Van Gogh.
Having never seen Egyptian art in real life before, I was astounded to see real statues of pharaohs and the sarcophaguses which housed their eternal spirits. I also greatly enjoyed the life exuding from the rooms of these still marble statues, with the artistic prowess of the represented sculptors capturing intense emotion in the expressions and contortions of each figure. The architecture of the Glyptotek itself is also notable, with the glass-domed roof and tropical plants of the Winter Garden creating a natural oasis in the center of the building.
Royal Danish Opera
FROM: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli (Bernstorffsgade) stop
TO: Refshaleøen stop (walk 6 minutes to reach the Royal Opera House)
TRANSPORTATION: 2A bus toward København H (13 min, 10 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
If you didn’t need a nap before you surely will now, so take a breather before getting dolled up to see the Royal Danish Opera. Founded in 1748, the Royal Danish Opera has been a significant player in the development of opera as an art form in Scandinavia and has a tradition of performing both classical operas by composers like Mozart and Verdi and contemporary works. The newly re-designed building, situated on the waterfront, is an iconic part of Copenhagen's skyline with a largely glass exterior. Upon entering the foyer of the opera house, you’ll notice a few different bar areas where you can purchase from a selection of food and beverages. If you happen to order a drink like Coca-Cola and are handed a glass bottle, you’ll also be handed a plastic cup because —as I was quickly informed by a lady sitting next to me —you’re not supposed to take glass into the auditorium.
Although I have no prior reference (since this was the first opera I’ve ever seen), I can attest that the company’s reputation for excellence in performance, staging, and musical interpretation is completely warranted. I watched Eugene Onegin, a Russian opera in 3 acts with 7 scenes total, composed by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Having never seen an opera before, let alone one in Denmark, I was initially worried I wouldn’t understand what was going on; fortunately, there are screens hung above the stage translating the actors’ songs and dialogue into English, so I was able to follow the storyline perfectly. This Copenhagen recommendation is another example of: you shouldn’t do this activity if you’re in a hurry! I entered the opera house for a 7:30 PM showing and didn’t exit until 10:45 — as each act lasted about an hour and there’s a twenty minute intermission to get up, hit the restroom, and grab more provisions between each act. Aside from that note, I was astounded by the raw talent of these performers, and their voices were some of the most beautiful I’ve ever heard. Even though this was technically quite a long show the time flew by, and at the final curtain call I was officially sold as an opera fan. If you’re seeking unique experiences while traveling in Copenhagen, watching the Royal Danish Opera should be at the top of your list!
Pro Tip:
The seat numbering in the auditorium is quite confusing, and led me to have to crawl over a bunch of already seated patrons. The left half of the parket, or floor seating, begins with the highest odd number, and the right half begins with the highest even number. For example, the left side could start from seat 37, then next is seat 35, etc. — enter your row from the half that corresponds with your seat number.
Day 5
Breakfast - Rug Bakery
Next door to København H station, you’ll find Rug Bakery with its bold, vibrant interior tucked inside the hotel Villa Copenhagen. Rug, meaning “Rye” in Danish, is Villa’s on-site bakery, serving fresh bread, traditional treats, breakfast staples, and coffee to locals and hotel guests.
Enjoy your last morning indulging in Copenhagen’s eminent bakery culture lounging in the cafe’s sunlit space or take your coffee outside to the terrace.
Black Diamond
FROM: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli (Bernstorffsgade) stop (walk 3 minutes from Rug Bakery)
TO: Det Kongelige Bibliotek (Christians Brygge) stop (walk 2 minutes to reach the Black Diamond)
TRANSPORTATION: 26 bus toward Sankt Annæ Plads, Skuespilhuset (4 min, 3 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
After you’ve enjoyed your last Danish pastry of the trip, head over to Copenhagen’s famous library, the Black Diamond. Serving as part of the Royal Danish Library, the Black Diamond contains a vast collection of books and historical manuscripts. Peruse through the exhibition spaces, concert hall, and admire the building’s striking modern architecture. The unique, black granite-clad façade is angled over the waters of the harbor, so that on a sunny day the reflection of waves makes the library sparkle like (you guessed it), a black diamond. Blending contemporary design with traditional library functions, the Black Diamond also houses a café if you’re still feeling peckish after Rug Bakery.
Pro Tip:
If the forecast is particularly rainy, visiting the Black Diamond—as well as the following Danish Architecture Center and Amalienborg Palace—are perfect indoor activities for staying warm and dry.
Danish Architecture Center
Now that you’ve warmed up your architectural enthusiasm for the day, walk a quick five minutes down the street to arrive at the Danish Architecture Center (DAC). A central hub for design enthusiasts, the DAC offers a variety of exhibitions, events, and educational programs showcasing both historic and contemporary architecture.
Wander through chronological displays, beginning with insights into Danish architectural traditions exploring the foundations of mighty castles which remain standing hundreds of years later. Modern design trends are highlighted in "Copenhagen in Common," showcasing Danish architects' work, and "So Danish!," a permanent exhibition on Danish architecture history. The last exhibitions you’ll find center around urban development and sustainable architecture, with these platforms prompting discussions and knowledge sharing about architecture's role in society.
If you don’t feel like using your brain power in another stuffy museum, that’s okay! You can also skip past all the reading and head right to interactive installations including a 40-meter spiral slide and "Aware – Architecture and Senses," which explores the relationship between spatial atmospheres and emotions. If you’ve never tried out a VR headset you’re in luck; the DAC challenges you to face your fears in an out-of-the-building virtual experience called “We Dare You.”
Amalienborg Palace
FROM: Det Kongelige Bibliotek (Christians Brygge) stop (walk 5 minutes back to this bus stop)
TO: Sankt Annæ Plads, Skuespilhuset (Sankt Annæ Plads) stop (walk 6 minutes to Amalienborg Palace)
TRANSPORTATION: 26 bus toward Sankt Annæ Plads, Skuespilhuset (4 min, 3 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Since it’s your last day in Copenhagen, it wouldn’t be right to leave without visiting one more palace nestled within the city center. Arguably the most modern royal feature within this itinerary, Amalienborg Palace is the winter residence of the Danish royal family. Known for its Rococo architecture, the entire palace consists of four identical palace façades around an octagonal courtyard.Visitors can explore several parts of the palace, including some royal reception rooms, the Amalienborg Museum, and the Palace Square.
Pro Tip:
While the museum within the palace is open to visitors, other parts of the palace complex are used as residences by the Danish royal family and are not accessible to the public.
The Amalienborg Museum, part of Christian VIII’s Palace, presents a chronological history of the Danish monarchy and offers insights into the life of Danish royals through the private interiors of the most recent kings and queens. While Rosenborg sheds light on the House of Oldenburg, Amalienborg’s focus is primarily on the time from 1863, when Christain IX became the first monarch from the House of Glücksburg, up through the Danish royal family today. Explore Christian X’s Study to see where the King conducted his official business and personal affairs and the Gala Hall, which is still in use by the royal family for special occasions.
Perhaps the most notable attraction, the changing of the guard ceremony occurs daily at 12:00 PM. Essentially, this tradition involves the Danish Royal Guard marching from their barracks at Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen, culminating at Amalienborg Palace. The guards, known as the Kongelige Livgarde or King's Life Guard, are on duty for 24 hours. Depending on who is in residence at Amalienborg Palace, the size of the guard and the musical accompaniment varies. Although I was running late to my Amalienborg noon time slot, this procession is quite a slow ordeal and takes about 30-45 minutes to complete —so no need to arrive precisely at noon. If it’s raining, you can watch from inside the museum!
Pro Tip:
Due to the popularity of this attraction, you’re better off reserving a free time slot online in advance to avoid waiting in long lines at the museum.
Netto Canal Tour
If one canal tour wasn’t enough you’re in luck — your Copenhagen Discover Card includes another free boat tour! Unlike the Stromma Canal Tour, this 60 minute jaunt around the harbor departs directly from Nyhavn onboard a blue Netto boat. Walk 9 minutes from Amalienborg Palace to Nyhavn 1F, Copenhagen K; you’ll see a red booth at the far end of the canal. Similar to the first tour, you’ll need to pre-book same-day tickets from this box office, located right next to the pier you’ll depart from, since there’s no way to reserve these tickets online in advance.
The earliest canal tours depart at 10:00 AM and 11:20 AM, with subsequent departures running every hour and twenty minutes after that. The tour runs year-round, with open boats patrolling the waters in the spring and summer while covered, heated boats take over in the fall and winter. These live tours are presented by local guides in Danish, English, and sometimes German as they talk through the history behind the scenery and the sights on the waterfront. There were some slight variations I noticed between the Stromma and Netto tours, with the latter traversing deeper into Christianshavn's canal past the Church of Our Savior and through Frederiksholm's canal past the old fish market. You can expect to see the Little Mermaid statue and Amalienborg Palace again, but if you want to compare the exact differences between both tours, see a comprehensive map of the route to the right:
Pro Tip:
If you’ve got some time to kill before your tour, try a pølser from one of the many stands in Nyhavn! These traditional hot dogs are garnished with chopped raw onions, crisp fried onions, large round sliced pickles, mustard, ketchup, and Danish remoulade.
After an incredibly action-packed five days, use the rest of the day to tackle any of the activities on this itinerary you didn’t get to, or to just recharge your social battery!
Dinner - Mother
FROM: København H station
TO: Gammel Strand station (walk 1 minutes to reach Ved Stranden 26)
TRANSPORTATION: M4 via Orientkaj (3 min, 2 stops, free w/ Copenhagen Discover Card or DKK 24)
Indulge in one last dinner in Copenhagen while reflecting on the incredible memories you made on your trip. Walk 11 minutes down Halmtorvet from København H station to dine at Mother, an authentic Italian restaurant located in the Meatpacking District of Copenhagen. Cooking up sourdough pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven, Mother is renowned for its high quality food sourced directly from Italy or made from organic produce in Copenhagen. The restaurant has a philosophy of "good food for the people" and "back to nature," which is evident in its use of purified seawater instead of traditional salt and water for making pizza dough. The atmosphere inside is simple and rustic, with wooden accents that contribute to a warm and inviting atmosphere. I feasted on a Salamina pie topped with Tomato, mozzarella, salame and mascarpone — which I paired with a glass of red pulled from the selection of house wines and cocktails based on classic Italian spirits. You can’t go wrong with warm, Italian soul food — especially after the long journey you’ve had around the city. Treat yourself with a pizza from Mother!
How Much Do Five Days in Copenhagen Cost?
Following the above itinerary cost me $969.61, or about $120/day, as a fresh post-grad on a budget:
Food
Breakfast
$33.19 - Mad & Kaffe
$21.50 - Lagkagehuset x2
$48.00 - Coffee and pastry runs x5 (including Rug Bakery)
Lunch
$22.97 - Hallernes Smørrebrød
$14.32 - GRØD
$80.58 - Damindra
$8.55 - Nyhavn pølser
Dinner
$66.11 - Fleisch
$19.36 - La Baracca
$73.58 - Vækst
$38.57 - Mother
$33.10 - Hostel dinner and pizza buffet from Next House Copenhagen
$20.27 - 7/11 pizza and croissant
Activities
$156 - Copenhagen Discover Card
Souvenirs
$17.07 - glass ornament
$78.77 - Parket (floor level) Royal Danish Opera tickets
Lodging
$220.40 - 7 nights at Next House Copenhagen
$17.27- padlock and miscellaneous non-alcoholic drinks from Next House Copenhagen
I fueled myself with pretty light meals in the mornings (and even with some random 7/11 convenience store food when I was on the go) to lessen my expenses, while splurging on high-quality Michelin guide meals in the evening. So, if you’re someone who absolutely needs to eat three solid meals every day, you’ll likely incur greater food expenses. Of course, if you opt to stay in a fancier hotel as opposed to an economical hostel, your lodging expenses will increase as well.
If you’re on a tighter budget, you can definitely skip some of the fine dining experiences I indulged in, as well as skipping the opera or purchasing a cheaper balcony ticket.
What to Wear in Copenhagen?
Visiting Copenhagen means it’s your time to embrace Scandi style. Embody the causally cool Matilda Djerf to fit into the local, understated aesthetic while still accommodating for the varied weather with versatile layers.
Local Danes prioritize comfort as much as class, so expect to see loose linen pajama pants paired with a structured wool coat. In Danish culture, fitting in is often favored over standing out (see the Law of Jante), meaning the practical pieces you already have in your closet will be perfect for your trip — no need to go invest in a whole new wardrobe or any designer drip!
Minimalistic Tops
think simple tees, button downs, and cardigans for layering
Trench Coats
stay bundled with long wool coats that elevate an otherwise simple look
Blue Jeans
a classic staple like slouchy blue jeans adds a relaxed, laidback element
Oversized Knits
chunky knitwear exudes chic minimalism that doesn’t take itself too seriously
Dad Sneakers
thick athletic trainers ensure you’re comfortable enough to strut through this walkable city
Colorful Totes
carry all your belongings while adding pop of color to an otherwise neutral ensemble
Is Denmark Worth a Visit?
Copenhagen greatly exceeded expectations on my first ever solo trip and first venture to Scandinavia! I selected Denmark as the first country I would travel alone to due to the outstanding reputation Copenhagen has as “the safest city in the world” — in my experience I found this to be overwhelmingly true! Even with the sun setting at 4 PM in November, I found local Danes out and about late into the evening — making me feel even more comfortable when strolling around in the darkness as well. Even when I returned to my hostel around midnight I saw other young women like me walking around by themselves, and any time I had an obvious look of confusion on my face a stranger approached me to provide guidance and directions. The presence of other people living their best lives outside, day and night whether it was sunny or raining, creates a satisfying sense of communal protection that I have yet to find in America — especially since we hole up inside when there’s any inclement weather. If you’re wondering when to travel to Copenhagen, the liveliness of locals I witnessed even in November convinced me that there truly isn’t a bad time to explore the city, unlike other destinations with clear off-seasons.
In terms of the city itself, Copenhagen is a marvelous example of how proactive urban planning can shape the lives and happiness of city residents. The most idealistic city I’ve visited to date, I found bike lanes and sidewalks on every clean street, copious amounts of green space with no trash or graffiti, efficient public transportation, endless museums and third spaces, and a rich connection to the region’s history. Looking back I was incredibly active throughout the trip (much more so than I am at home) and experienced a deep sense of peace being so close to nature whilst in the midst of a thriving city. Although city architecture is typically driven by what’s good for industry, considering what residents actually want manifests in a street like Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe, that’s totally closed off to cars so shoppers can stroll around freely. While Copenhagen may not be an obvious destination at the top of most travelers’ bucket lists, I would strongly encourage anyone with a hint of curiosity about Scandinavia to start here — Copenhagen is a shining example of why cities need to be built for the people living in them, since this garners some of the highest happiness and standard of living conditions found anywhere in the world.
