3 Days Touring Tokyo
TRAVEL DATES: MAY 24-27, 2024 | EST. READING TIME: 44 MIN
IN THIS GUIDE ✺
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Craving melt-in-your-mouth sushi with a side of futuristic, animated fun?
Emerging in vibrant Tokyo feels like you’ve been transported to a distant future where utopian ideals become reality. Amongst high-tech infrastructure and robots catering to your every need, trendsetting Tokyo is simultaneously the center of cutting-edge street style and world-class cuisine. This extremely clean and safe metropolis is the ideal playground for adults where you can embrace your inner child with games and whimsical fun galore—especially with character-based entertainment options! United with this dynamic development are nods to the traditions of historic Japan, the spirit of which is kept alive in age-old artistic and athletic practices like kintsugi and sumo wrestling. If indulgence is more your speed, you could spend a whole week perusing the luxury shopping scene of Ginza before basking in the relaxation of endless coveted Japanese beauty treatments. Tokyo is truly a city that has it all, and with so many ties to the Western world it’s no question why this city is typically the first stop in Asia for intrepid American travelers.
Three Day Tokyo Itinerary
In a hurry? Here’s a time-stamped overview of the detailed Tokyo travel guide you’ll find below:
Day 1
9:00 - 10:30 AM: 📿 Begin your first day with a tranquil morning walking around Meiji Jingu (1 hr 30 min)
10:30 - 11:30 AM: 🧸 Dig into funky street food by animal cafes and gachapon shops on Takeshita-dori (1 hr)
12:00 - 1:00 PM: 🏎️ Race as a character through Shibuya Crossing with Street Kart Shibuya (1 hr)
1:15 - 2:15 PM: 🍖 Put on your chef’s hat and grill up fine cuts of meat at Gyu-Kaku (1 hr)
2:40 - 4:30 PM: 💆♀️ Relax during a cleansing scalp massage at Head Spa Belle Cheveu (1 hr 50 min)
5:00 - 6:30 PM: 💅 Chill out before getting ready for the rest of the evening (1 hr 30 min)
6:45 - 8:15 PM: ✨ Gaze out over the city lights from the Shibuya Sky viewpoint (1 hr 30 min)
8:30 - 10:30 PM: 🍣 Journey around the world through an omakase experience at The Bellwood (2 hr)
Day 2
9:00 - 10:00 AM: 🌼 Wander the serene gardens surrounding the Imperial Palace (1 hr)
10:30 - 11:45 AM: 🐙 Eat like the locals and enjoy freshly caught seafood at Tsukiji Market (1 hr 15 min)
12:15 - 1:00 PM: 🗼 Peruse the Buddhist temples and blooming gardens next to Tokyo Tower (45 min)
2:00 - 5:00 PM: 🤼♂️ Cheer for contenders as you observe the art of sumo in the Ryogoku Kokugikan (3 hrs)
5:00 - 6:30 PM: 🛀 Return to the hotel to freshen up and prepare for the night ahead (1 hr 30 min)
6:45 - 8:15 PM: 🎣 Catch your dinner entrée while fishing inside Zaou (1 hr 30 min)
8:30 - 9:00 PM: 🎮 Buy cheap souvenirs and an assortment of trinkets inside Don Quijote (1 hr)
9:15 - 11:00 PM: 🍶 Drink plum sake at the counter while bar hopping down Golden Gai (1 hr 45 min)
Day 3
9:30 - 10:30 AM: 🌳 Explore one more green space as you stroll through Shinjuku Gyoen (1 hr)
11:00 AM - 12:30 PM: ⚱️ Repair broken pottery during a kintsugi class at TNCA Studio (1 hr 30 min)
1:00 - 1:45 PM: 🐡 Eat a rapid fire sushi lunch at the infamous Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi Hills (45 min)
2:30 - 3:30 PM: 🏮 Admire the ornate façade of the various temples comprising ancient Senso-ji (1 hr)
3:40 - 5:00 PM: 🥣 Shop for vintage ceramics from the pottery shops of Kappabashi-dori (1 hr 20 min)
5:45 - 6:30 PM: 👗 Quickly change and get ready for a refined farewell dinner (45 min)
7:00 - 9:00 PM: 🍤 Dig into your final high-quality omakase from Nobu Tokyo (2 hr)
How to Get Around Tokyo?
WALK: Walking is typically the best way to get around Tokyo if you’re already in the neighborhood you’re planning to explore, but to reach that borough originally you’re usually better off taking public transportation or a taxi. As a rule of thumb, walking is usually the best way to go if the distance to your destination is anywhere between twenty and thirty minutes — and who wouldn’t want to stroll by the towering skyscrapers of Tokyo?
TAXI: After first arriving in Japan we leaned heavily on taxis as our initial transportation method to get a lay of the land before attempting to use the subway. While this was a bit costly off the bat—especially when commuting from the Haneda Airport—this approach allowed us to feel more comfortable and confident once we started using the subway for the remainder of our trip. To secure a ride, calling a cab on Uber is usually the easier way to go since you can see the estimated wait time and duration up front. Otherwise, you can hail taxis off the street like you would in any other city, or request a cab in your hotel lobby. Most notable tourist spots have designated taxi drop-off areas, so you know there’ll be a fresh supply when you depart.
The base fare for taxis in Tokyo is ¥420 for the first 1.052 kilometers, with an additional charge of ¥80-90 per every 237 meters traveled after that. In addition to distance, there is a time-based fare when the taxi is moving slowly or stopped in traffic which usually adds ¥80-90 every 90 seconds of waiting. The vast majority of taxis accept credit cards as a payment method—which you can confirm if you see a screen attached to the back of the passenger seat—and this nifty device can often be used for translating conversations with your driver!
TRAIN: The public transit system in Tokyo is extremely efficient and the best affordable way to get from here to there! You’ll want to add the Suica card to your digital wallet before hopping on a train, as this transit card allows you to simply scan your phone and walk through the station gates—it’s as simple as that! You start by uploading a minimum of ¥1,000 during the initial set-up, but after that you can add specific amounts, so on your last ride be sure to check the price of your route on your map app of choice and only add any remaining cash you need to reach that exact amount—otherwise you’ll lose some left over inaccessible change in the end. When I returned home I raved about how clear and simple the public transit signage all over Japan is, as I’ve consistently boarded trains heading in the wrong direction when commuting in cities like New York, yet I didn’t make a single mistake in the Japanese stations that are numbered, colored, have unique line names, and precisely detail what stops are included in the routes traveling in either direction. All the announcements made over the speaker are repeated in English too! To practice good train etiquette: remain quiet and keep to yourself, avoid eating and drinking, and only listen to media with headphones at a volume that won’t cause sound to leak out into the area around you.
How to Get from Haneda Airport to Tokyo?
FROM: Haneda Airport (Hanedakuko, Ota City, Tokyo 144-0041, Japan)
TO: Hotel Century Southern Tower (2 Chome-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0053, Japan)
When first arriving into Tokyo, what you really should do is take the Express Shinagawa Keikyū Airport Line to leave the surrounding area as quickly and cheaply as possible. This above-ground rail line is incredibly efficient as it only serves the airport, allowing you to bypass the traffic on the road which can easily make your taxi ride last an hour or more. Being entirely new to Japan—and running late to our dinner reservation after a flight delay—my best friend and I both opted to take taxis into the city following our arrival flights into Tokyo, which cost me nearly $70 to get to Shinjuku. Make better choices than us and just take the train—seriously. Even if you taxi to your lodging from the central Shinagawa Station depot this airport line will take you to, choosing this transport option will result in significant time and cost savings that you don’t want to pass up on. Assuming you’re staying in Shinjuku like we did, hop on the line listed above for 18 minutes as you pass through 9 stops before exiting at Shinagawa Station. From there, you’ll switch to the Local For Shibuya / Shinjuku (Clockwise) Yamanote Line and ride for 17 minutes through 7 stops, entailing a total journey time of around 45 minutes costing you only ¥510.
Where to Stay in Tokyo?
CONVENIENT COMPLEX: Hotel Century Southern Tower (refined skyscraper hotel room, $958.57 for 4 nights split among 2 people)
Doing a minimal amount of research while quickly calling to book all of our Japan lodging one night, we were pleasantly surprised at how nice the Hotel Century Southern Tower ended up being! This towering skyscraper is located right next to Shinjuku Station, making it an incredibly convenient jumping off point to go explore the other central neighborhoods of Tokyo. The actual hotel establishment is located twenty floors up, meaning no matter which room option you select you’re bound to have spanning, panoramic views of the city skyline. The ground four floors of the Odakyu Southern Tower are lined with various shops and open cafes in a broad plaza, so if you’re in a pinch there should be a variety of stores like the 7-Eleven directly within the hotel selling exactly what you’re looking for. We spent four nights in a comfort single room comprising 205 square feet and although the room was a bit on the smaller end, this is quite typical for compact Tokyo and never caused us any inconvenience. The ~$20 buffet brunch spread in Southern Tower Dining caters to both traditional Japanese and Western breakfast tastes, allowing you to select your preferred dishes from an array of seasonal delicacies—with so many different choices you could eat a totally new meal every morning! Given the immense convenience this hotel affords on top of the comfortable, neutral-toned amenities which curate a relaxing environment, you can be rest assured booking accommodations in the Hotel Century Southern Tower will result in the ideal Shinjuku stay for your Tokyo trip.
What to Do in Tokyo?
Day 1
FROM: Hotel Century Southern Tower (2 Chome-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0053, Japan)
TO: Meiji Jingu (1-1 Yoyogikamizonocho, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-8557, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: exit left out of the hotel and walk straight for 12 minutes until you enter a forested path
Meiji Jingu
Rise and shine, your first morning in Tokyo begins with a free trip to Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Reaching the temple grounds will require you to enter though a serene forested area which is so quiet and peaceful you’ll wonder how such natural beauty can coexist inside the world’s most populous city. The full grounds cover 170 acres and include around 120,000 trees of 365 different species, creating a peaceful oasis in the heart of Tokyo. A relaxing jaunt will bring you to the shrine, which honors the royal rulers for their contributions to Japanese society during the Meiji Restoration, a period that transformed Japan from a feudal society into a modern state. A respected spiritual site in the center of the city, on any given day you can find traditional Japanese performances and Shinto festivals or even ceremonial wedding rituals. We had the pleasure of witnessing an international wedding procession complete with guests in traditional garb, and spent moments of personal reflection writing wishes on wooden ema hung around the divine tree before initiating a quiet prayer in front of the temple’s open doors. Your walk in and out of the main plaza will lead you under brown wooden torii gates, while further exploration into the paths around the shrine will take you past colorful sake barrels perfect for a photo opp.
Takeshita-dori
Exit the shrine and turn left past Harajuku station to advance in a few short moments to Takeshita-dori. This colorful, character-filled avenue has everything from rainbow cotton candy the size of your head to mini pig cafes and more. If you’re seeking a snack you can find multiple stands selling potato chip spirals and chocolate-covered strawberry cups reminiscent of Borough Market in London. Or if you’d prefer the company of furry friends, consider stopping for a quick bite inside the animal cafes filled with cats, hedgehogs, mameshibas, bunnies, and even owls for you to bond with. If it wasn’t clear in these descriptions yet, Takeshita-dori has a quirky character that encourages eccentricities, seen in the bold, tongue-and-cheek graphics sold inside streetwear shops and the pop fashion storefronts strictly selling shoes that have at minimum a four-inch platform on the base. The larger-than-life characteristics of anime come alive on this pedestrian street, so now’s the perfect time to buy into the madness and play like you’re a zany kid again!
This concept is best embodied in the gachapon shops of Takeshita-dori, or stores with long rows of brightly colored vending machines into which you can insert some change to receive a capsule ball filled with a surprise prize. Depending on the machine you selected, you may open up the container to find toys, keychains, and more! The containers are generally organized by series or franchise, meaning your favorite show or video game is bound to be represented by at least one vendor within the shop. Upon dropping in your change and turning the wheel, whether or not you end up with your preferred option is totally up to luck! The randomness of your resulting prize is a bit like playing the lottery with extremely low stakes, adding to the fun of using some extra coins to try and collect your favorite tchotchkes. After exploring all the options, I ended up walking away with a glow-in-the-dark blue bear toy that sleeps on my desk at home now!
Street Kart Shibuya
FROM: Takeshita-dori (1 Chome-16-6 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0001, Japan)
TO: Street Kart Shibuya (Japan, 〒150-0044 Tokyo, 15-3 Street Kart Maruyama-Cho Shibuya-ku 1F)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 5 min back to Harajuku Station → Shibuya Station via Local For Shibuya / Shinagawa (Counter-Clockwise) Yamanote Line, then walk another 13 min to the excursion (2 min, direct, ¥150)
Once you’ve gotten your commercial fix for the day, you’re going to be embarking on the most fun activity you’ll enjoy in Tokyo—and I’m not exaggerating one bit. Since the day I watched Indy Blue’s Japan vlogs from 2018 I’ve had “Mario Kart” racing down the streets of Shibuya on my travel bucket list, and after finally living out this dream I can confirm it’s ever more fun than it looks! You’ll need to arrive at the excursion a bit earlier than your scheduled departure time to fill out liability waivers and watch an instructional safety demonstration—this Street Kart Shibuya guided tour recommends arriving thirty minutes early but we were fine after showing up with only twenty minutes to spare. The real excitement of this pre-ride period entails perusing the many onesie costumes at your disposal; these go-kart tours take the Moonview Highway comparison very seriously and provide fun character outfits so you can embody anyone from Mario to Pokemon to sweet Cinnamoroll, with options from the most popular comics, games, and anime available. We opted for matching white bear suits complete with the cutest fur tails and an attached blushing hood. Feeling quite literally adorable, we strapped into our go-karts and took off behind our instructor, whipping down the streets of Shibuya. These contraptions are no joke, as they’re street legal so you can ride down the road alongside cars and other vehicles. At their peak you’ll hit speeds that will actually allow you to Tokyo drift around the winding turns scattered throughout the area, a phenomenon that’s especially exaggerated if this will be your first time driving on the left side of the road! While you’re sure to get a few smiles and waves from on-lookers snapping photos, you’ll face the largest pedestrian crowd waiting at the light of famous Shibuya Crossing, where you’re sure to reach celebrity status with the amount of eyes you’ll draw in one of the busiest pedestrian intersections in the world. The full course will pass through Harajuku and Omotesando as your guide snaps photos of you and your group throughout all the periods in which you’re waiting at red lights with luxury shops and cafes dotting the background, which you’ll get sent at the end of the extraordinary experience. This is truly an unforgettable memory I will cherish for the remainder of my life, and I found myself spontaneously laughing and shouting for joy throughout the ride as I giggled at the absurdity of the whole scene we were apart of. If you only take one piece of advice from this article, be sure to go street karting in Shibuya while visiting Tokyo!
Pro Tip:
You’ll need to arrive with your physical passport and a valid International Driving Permit in hand. If you’re traveling from the United States, be sure to acquire this from your local AAA office before your trip.
Lunch - Gyu-Kaku
FROM: Street Kart Shibuya (Japan, 〒150-0044 Tokyo, 15-3 Street Kart Maruyama-Cho Shibuya-ku 1F)
TO: Gyu-Kaku (ハナテイビル ２Ｆ 31-9 Udagawacho, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0042, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 9 minutes turning left out from the excursion before taking a right on Shōto Bunkamura Street then left as you pass by the MEGA Don Quijote to reach the restaurant
By this point you’ve likely worked up quite an appetite, which can easily be remedied with a filling yakiniku lunch at Gyu-Kaku in which you’ll cook an assorted plate of meats over an open grill. This is my absolute favorite chain back in the U.S., so you can imagine my excitement when we spotted a location super close to the go-kart garage! While I had assumed this was going to be somewhat of an “American-ized” option, we found ourselves strictly eating alongside Tokyo residents at the cash-only restaurant, so I was pleasantly surprised to see my favorite spot being enjoyed by locals in its country of origin! We ordered a family platter comprised of a few different meat choices, including skirt steak, kalbi, pork ribs, and a side of pineapple to add a touch of caramelized sweetness. Each piece only takes a few minutes to cook on the grill, and it’s recommended to put all the pieces of a single type over the fire at the same time. You can prep your pieces with butter, garlic, and an assortment of dipping sauces as you see fit—and be sure to order a side of white rice to make the meal a bit heartier! We arrived with no reservation and were promptly seated, so you should be fine to pull up whenever you start to feel hungry.
Head Spa Belle Cheveu
FROM: Gyu-Kaku (ハナテイビル ２Ｆ 31-9 Udagawacho, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0042, Japan)
TO: Head-Spa Belle Cheveu (Monkey Terrace, １Ａ 12-35 Sarugakucho, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0033, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 23 minutes south, turning right and left down so many streets that its going to be most worthwhile to use your maps app of choice while navigating to the Daikanyama neighborhood
As the food coma starts to descend over you, head out of the restaurant and walk to Head-Spa Belle Cheveu’s Daikanyama salon for a relaxing afternoon retreat to serve as the perfect compliment to your high-speed morning. While you may have seen the concept of a Japanese head spa carried out in the social content of salons at home, this practice originated from the first specialized head spa opened in 2006, which is conveniently the same salon you’ll be visiting today! Promoting hair growth via in-house developed tonics which will be specially prepped to penetrate the dermis layer of your scalp, this healing treatment combines the best of hair case and massage techniques. While specialized treatments are offered to target various problem areas, we opted for the basic scalp cleansing course which entails the general scalp refreshment routine any customer can benefit from.
Upon entering the tranquil atmosphere of the quiet salon, you’ll be prompted to fill out a first time customer questionnaire while sipping a welcome drink and cleansing your hands with a warm towel. After examining your responses, your hair therapist will walk you through the process and explain the beauty benefits of each treatment component. You’ll get up close and personal with the grime dirtying your scalp as you watch a video feed of a microscope panning over your roots before the cleansing, mist treatment, and shampooing ensues. Scalp lotion and conditioner will be massaged into your hair following the lathering of shampoo, and the rejuvenating massage techniques feel so calming that you might find yourself drifting to sleep by this point! As your hair soaks up all the nourishing goodness feeding your ends with natural nutrients, the time will pass quickly through this waiting period as a lymphatic neck and shoulder oil massage accompanies this portion of the treatment. Once your hair is rinsed and ready, you’ll be left to your own devices to dry and style your newly cleansed ‘do using any of the available styling tools—but before this happens your therapist will boot up the microscope a second time to show you the immediate effects of this restorative session on your scalp!
Shibuya Sky
FROM: Hotel Century Southern Tower (2 Chome-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0053, Japan)
TO: Shibuya Sky (14階・45階・46階・屋上 2 Chome-24-12 Shibuya, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-6145, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 6 min to Yoyogi Station → Shibuya Station via Local For Shibuya / Shinagawa (Counter-Clockwise) Yamanote Line, then walk another 4 min to the viewpoint (5 min, 2 stops, ¥150)
Use this break in the itinerary to return to your hotel and freshen up before the ensuing night begins. Once you’re ready—or when your reservation time rolls around—head over to Shibuya Sky to witness breathtaking views of the twinkling city skyline for only ¥2,500. Located within Shibuya Station, this multi-level train station filled with shopping, dining, and entertainment options is quite complex and crowded, so it’s in your best interest to arrive a bit early in case you have any hiccups navigating around. You’ll join the end of a winding line before filing into the glass, high-speed elevator which will represent your first ascent in the journey up to the observation deck offering stunning 360° panoramic views of Tokyo. Akin to the Disney World lines which just keep on going, you’ll exit the first elevator before waiting in more lines to enter a second, and then a third elevator before you’ll finally reach the rooftop of the Shibuya Scramble Square building. The latter trips are themed with intergalactic sounds and imagery, which adds to the effect that you’re propelling through the air on your way up. Upon finally entering the main exhibit, you’ll walk into a covered building which features interactive installations detailing information on the surrounding skyline and a technological time river you mark with the specific moment of your visit.
To step outside you’ll need to secure any bags in a locker for a fee of ¥100-300, but this small price to pay is undoubtedly worth the unparalleled vantage point you’re soon granted of the sprawling cityscape including landmarks like Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Skytree, and even Mount Fuji on clear days. Watching the organized chaos of thousands of people walking below is a mesmerizing experience to be had from the sleek and modern observation deck, topped with an open-air sky stage allowing you to feel the breeze and enjoy an unobstructed view of the sky and city. A rooftop bar offers cocktails if you’d like to start the festivities early and pre-game your upcoming dinner, while occasional light shows project dancing beams of light to further illuminate Tokyo at night.
Pro Tip:
Nighttime—and particularly sunset—time slots are highly coveted options, meaning you truly need to log into the website linked below and prepare to make your purchase at precisely midnight in Japan’s timezone four weeks in advance of your preferred date as soon as the tickets for that day become available online.
Dinner - The Bellwood
FROM: Shibuya Sky (14階・45階・46階・屋上 2 Chome-24-12 Shibuya, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-6145, Japan)
TO: The Bellwood (Japan, 〒150-0042 Tokyo, Shibuya City, Udagawacho, 41−31)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (5 min, direct, ~¥1,000)
Cap off your first night in Tokyo with a culinary trip around the world delivered by the masterful imagination and classically-trained execution of chef Ayaka at The Bellwood. While the majority of this space serves as a 1910s Taisho era old school Kissa—or coffee shop- style cocktail bar, a hidden omakase restaurant is tucked in the back with only four counter seats for a truly intimate experience. Upon entering the space you’ll be greeted by the head chef and meet your dining companions for the evening assuming you didn’t book the whole table. With an extremely kind and charismatic personality, bubbly Aya will have you feeling comfortable and right at home before the meal even begins. A rousing night of fine drinks, exquisite food and old-timey Japanese vibes with a nostalgic feel is sure to ensue. As you watch her prepare each of the twelve courses with meticulous patience, Aya will explain her inspiration for the flavor profile as each piece of sushi is crafted in the theme of countries around the world. Starting out with a New York cheesecake-inspired piece that is quite literally topped with Parmesan—I know, I know, I’ve never eaten fish with cheese but it was somehow so, so right—you’ll head to Vietnam with a bao-inspired course before journeying to Mexico with a chips and guac piece of nigiri and then taste a Greek tzatziki mouthful up next.
Every piece is more adventurous than the next, employing both innovative ingredients and advanced techniques as Aya torches certain cuts after injecting an egg yolk with a truffle-filled syringe. We had quite a time trying to guess the next country based on the toppings Aya added to each piece of fresh, flaky fish and if you haven’t warmed up to the other guests yet—the three cocktails included in your dinner are sure to help! The last destination is dessert of course—which in this case is a tiramisu-inspired treat dropping you off in none other than Italy. When considering the quality of the meal, the entertaining banter, and the close proximity to the culinary process in watching the chef prepare each course in real time, I can undoubtedly say this was the best meal I had during the entirety of our Japan trip. This is the kind of dinner you write home about, and if you’re looking for your mind to be, blown be sure to book a table for dinner at The Bellwood in advance!
Day 2
FROM: Hotel Century Southern Tower (2 Chome-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0053, Japan)
TO: Imperial Palace (1-1 Chiyoda, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-8111, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 6 min to Shinjuku Station → Kudanshita Station via Local Motoyawata Shinjuku Line → Takebashi Station via Rapid Toyo-Katsutadai Tozai Line then walk another 5 min to the palace (15 min, 4 stops then 1 stop switch at Kudanshita Station, ¥290)
Imperial Palace
Begin your second day in Tokyo with a trip to the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan and the center of Japanese imperial power since the Meiji Restoration in 1868, the Imperial Palace. Standing on the site of the former Edo Castle, which was the seat of the Tokugawa shogunate, the palace complex includes traditional Japanese buildings and gardens which contain archeological remnants of past structures. Symbolizing Japan’s monarchy, which is the oldest hereditary monarchy in the world, the inherent security required of the Emperor's residence means most of the palace grounds aren’t open to the public. If you end up visiting on a Sunday or Monday you’ll be as unlucky as we were in our planning and your access will be limited to the East Gardens where you can enjoy classic Japanese landscape design for free amongst the moats, stone walls, and lush greenery which comprise this famous public green space. If you make more thoughtful plans than myself and visit any other day of the week, you have the opportunity to join special guided tours of the inner grounds and learn more about the history and significance of the royal site. While offered free of charge, only two tours occur per day and tickets are distributed to a set number of visitors on a first-come, first-serve basis.
200 tickets are reserved for prior registered guests while 300 additional seats are set aside for daily walk-ins. Whether you decide to participate in the morning 10:00 AM tour or afternoon 1:30 PM tour, ticket distribution begins an hour before the tour time and registration follows thirty minutes after—meaning you need to prepare to arrive well in advance of the actual tour time to secure a spot. To receive walk-in tickets, bring a valid form of identification, which in most cases will be your passport, to the Kikyō-mon Gate of the Imperial Palace. Following entry, you’ll be asked to fill out a form with personal information, and if you plan for this activity well in advance you’ll fill out this same form online via an application which becomes available at 5:00 AM JST on the first day of the month preceding the intended tour date.
Lunch - Tsukiji Market
FROM: Imperial Palace (1-1 Chiyoda, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-8111, Japan)
TO: Tsukiji Outer Market (及び６丁目一部 4 Chome Tsukiji, Chuo City, Tokyo 104-0045, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 6 min to Takebashi Station → Kayabachō Station via Local Nishi-Funabashi Tozai Line → Tsukiji Station via Local Naka-Meguro Hibiya Line then walk another 6 min to the market (11 min, 3 stops then 2 stops switch at Kayabachō Station, ¥180)
After exiting the palace, head towards the Sumida River to sample fresh seafood and experience a slice of daily life in Tokyo at the Tsukiji Outer Market. You’ll note that I’ve specified the outer market, because the inner wholesale market operations was relocated to the new Toyosu Market in 2018 in order to modernize facilities and improve food safety standards. Nonetheless, the outer market remains active and open to visitors, continuing to attract foodies with its vibrant market atmosphere. Established in 1935, you’ll be getting ingredients straight from the source at one of the world's largest wholesale fish markets. Playing a central role in Tokyo's seafood distribution network for decades by supplying local businesses and international markets, the market offers a vast variety of seafood, including some of the freshest and most exotic fish and marine products you can find in the city. The most notable occurrence happens here every day in the wee hours of the early morning, when tuna auctions are underway drawing both professional buyers and curious tourists who come to witness the fast-paced and competitive bidding for giant tuna. While evidently a culinary undertaking, visiting Tsukiji Market also serves as a cultural exploration into Japanese food culture, market traditions, and the daily lives of the vendors and fishermen.
Arriving while the clock still read A.M, my travel companion and I were a bit skeptical about eating raw street food for breakfast without anything else in our stomachs. Nonetheless we pressed forward as the intrepid travelers that we are and tasted flame-grilled octopus skewers along with salmon and tuna sashimi—and thankfully nothing here upset our stomachs nor any street food we had throughout our Japan trip! This is likely attributed to the fact that many of the city's top sushi chefs source their ingredients directly from Tsukiji, ensuring the highest quality and freshness. The low-prices offered at each stall may cause you to jump the gun and excitedly purchase many items from the same vendor, but I’d recommend tasting a small sample of delicacies from as many stalls as you can. That being said, the vast majority of these vendors are cash-only and they expect you to eat, finish, and throw away the trash from their wares at the folding tables outside the stall rather than have you walk around while eating. If you’re craving a sweet treat for dessert, be sure to stop at the Soratsuki booth for sugar-coated strawberry skewers and an array of fruit-flavored mochi!
Tokyo Tower
FROM: Tsukiji Outer Market (及び６丁目一部 4 Chome Tsukiji, Chuo City, Tokyo 104-0045, Japan)
TO: Tokyo Tower (4 Chome-2-8 Shibakoen, Minato City, Tokyo 105-0011, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 7 min to Tsukiji Station → Kamiyachō Station via Local Naka-Meguro Hibiya Line then walk another 9 min to the tower (11 min, 6 stops, ¥180)
Following your early lunch, head to one of Japan’s most recognizable structures that you may have already glanced at and wondered—is that a red Eiffel Tower? Tokyo Tower stands at 1,092 feet and was the tallest structure in Japan when it was completed in 1958, today remaining as a prominent symbol of Tokyo's post-war rebirth and modernization representing the country’s economic resurgence and growth during the 20th century. In another similar fashion to Paris’s most notable architectural landmark, the tower offers two observation decks—the main deck at 150 meters and the top deck at 250 meters for ¥1,200 and ¥2,800 respectively— providing spectacular panoramic views of Tokyo. On clear days, you can see similar landmarks which are also visible from Shibuya Sky like the Tokyo Skytree, Mount Fuji, and the Tokyo Bay. Having already enjoyed panoramic views from the taller Shibuya Sky lookout, we skipped this experience and instead spent the majority of our time exploring the temples and park surrounding Tokyo Tower. Zojoji Temple serves as the main temple of the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism in the Kanto region and has beautiful architecture dating back to the 14th century you can admire from the tranquil grounds. When we visited, the beautiful gold interior was open to the public for free viewing accompanied with the rich musky scent of burning incense.
The surrounding greenery—Shiba Park—is one of Tokyo's oldest public parks. Here you’ll be able to capture shots of Tokyo Tower from different angles while traversing the peaceful walking paths in the heart of the city. In the event you have a good amount of time to spare, consider visiting several museums around the area including the Tokyo Tower Wax Museum on the fourth floor inside the tower. Depending on the time of year you may also see stunning illumination events commemorating holidays, festivals, and other significant occasions. We didn’t have much time on our side and simply enjoyed the natural beauty of the grounds—and the adorable Buddha statues with their knit hats—before taking pictures and then heading to the next activity.
Ryogoku Kokugikan
FROM: Tokyo Tower (4 Chome-2-8 Shibakoen, Minato City, Tokyo 105-0011, Japan)
TO: Ryogoku Kokugikan (1 Chome-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida City, Tokyo 130-0015, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 12 min to Akabanebashi Station → Ryogoku Station via Local Tocho-Mae via Daimon / Ryogoku Oedo Line then walk another 9 min to the tower (20 min, 9 stops, ¥220)
Assuming you’re visiting Tokyo during one of the three annual Grand Sumo tournaments or basho held in the city—which run during January, May, and September—then prepare to marvel at this rich tradition which combines athletic prowess, ritualistic discipline, and deep-rooted heritage. Sumo has ancient origins, with references dating back over a thousand years, and is deeply intertwined with Shinto practices as historically it was performed as a sacred ritual to ensure a good harvest. Today, sumo is considered Japan's national sport and thus has evolved into a highly respected symbol of Japanese identity and heritage which showcases traditional values like discipline, honor, and respect. These principles come to life in the sacred dohyo, or wrestling ring, only after sumo wrestlers known as rikishi have achieved the proper qualifications during their highly disciplined life of training in sumo stables or heya. Their daily routine includes rigorous training, a specific diet of chanko nabe to maintain their size, and a lifestyle that adheres to strict rules.
The actual match takes place in the circular dohyo made of clay and covered with a layer of sand. The objective of each wrestler is to force their opponent out of the ring or to touch the ground with anything other than the soles of their feet. Pre-match ceremonies like the salt-throwing ritual take up the majority of the time comprising each session and are meant to purify the ring by warding off evil spirits. The brief but intense bouts can end in mere seconds or last for several minutes depending on the skill match between the two contenders. Sumo wrestlers are ranked in a hierarchical system—with the top rank being the yokozuna or grand champion—and thus it’s within the six major tournaments during which wrestlers compete for titles to advance their ranks. Each tournament typically lasts for fifteen days and takes place at the Ryogoku Kokugikan, with the winner in each division determined by the wrestler with the best record at the end of the final day. Wearing traditional mawashi, or thick belts, during matches and sporting a topknot hairstyle, you’ll notice that the competitors attire is reminiscent of modern samurai warriors. As such, sumo events are not just about the matches but also about celebrating Japanese culture, thus attracting large festive crowds with traditional arena food and souvenirs available for spectators.
We purchased tickets for the final day of the May 2024 tournament and spent nearly three hours appreciating the merits of this sacred practice. None of the information presented here is really necessary to pick up on what’s going on—since we showed up knowing practically nothing and had a marvelous time! As we observed more and more bouts our curiosity and list of questions began to grow, leading us to teach ourselves along the way until we were educated enough to cheer at the appropriate times along with the rest of the rowdy crowd! We noted particularly loud cheers for Endo and Shodai, leading us to discover that sumo has largely been dominated by Mongolian wrestlers, and thus very few successful native Japanese wrestlers remain—leading local crowds to cheer raucously for them even if they don’t win! Otherwise it’s important to know that the lower seats are sold as box packages, meaning you’ll be sitting in a confined space of four seat cushions with no back support. While these seats are closer and thus more expensive, we found our view from the higher, but more supportive chair seats to be much preferred as they allowed us to remain comfortable throughout the events. The less advanced wrestlers compete first in the juryo junior league while the higher ranked wrestlers in the makuuchi major league arrive in the arena later—so if you’re only interested in seeing the best of the best you don’t need to show up until 3:00 PM! Otherwise, when entering and exiting the stadium you’ll note that spectators and wrestlers use the same routes, so you might just happen to walk out behind a sumo wrestler you watched compete in the dohyo inside!
Pro Tip:
If you’re traveling to Tokyo outside of the narrow tournament date ranges, fear not; you can still experience the heart of this cultural practice with a sumo stable tour as you observe the lifestyle of wrestlers in training!
Dinner - Zauo
FROM: Hotel Century Southern Tower (2 Chome-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0053, Japan)
TO: Zauo (新宿ワシントンホテル 一階 3 Chome-2-9 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0023, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 14 minutes turning right out of the hotel onto 都道414号, then take a left onto 甲州街道/国道20号 before turning right at to 甲州街道/国道20号 and left onto 南通り to reach the mall which houses Zauo
Even though the sumo wrestlers are the ones doing all the hard work, odds are you’ll still feel quite tired after watching them dole it out all afternoon, so be sure to head back to the hotel for a bit of rest before dinner. Like your lunch at Tsukiji Market, you’ll be once again enjoying fish at its freshest—except this time you’re going to be catching the seafood that you eat! That’s right, at Zauo you fish for your entrée which is quickly prepared and accompanies the nigiri and appetizers you’ll enjoy as part of the set course. Aside from the novelty of fishing for your meal, this actually makes the seafood you consume cheaper than if you ordered the same item off the à la carte menu. The catch available at your disposal depends on how many cards your reserved meal comes with — we selected the cheapest set course menu with fishing included and ended up with six cards, so we put our funds together and went in on one big sea bass to split between the two of us. At that point, it’s your time to shine as you use a barbed hook—which for the record felt a bit inhumane considering you don’t bait the hook and catch the fish when they bite, instead you have to kind of skewer and hook them from underneath…but I digress—to catch the fish of your choosing before transferring it to a net and handing it off to a staff member for preparation.
You can enjoy your freshly caught seafood as sashimi, nigiri, grilled, boiled, or deep-fried tempura fish—and if two of these options sound appetizing you can request a half-and-half preparation. Your prepared fish then comes out shockingly fast, I’m talking less than five minutes, and if you can’t tell from the photo on the bottom right—the whole fish comes out with it! Our fishy friend was staring right at my travel buddy while she was trying to eat her meal in peace, so we ended up covering his head with a napkin to avoid any squeamish thoughts. To drink we enjoyed a flight of three sake varieties we each picked out at our own discretion, although if you pay a premium on your set course total you can also turn your booking into an all-you-can-drink reservation!
Pro Tip:
If anyone in your cohort is traveling around their birthdays, answering Question #1 in the provided reservation link will allow you to request a small dessert for the birthday guest along with a generic birthday sign and song of well wishes performed by the restaurant employees.
Don Quijote
FROM: Zauo (新宿ワシントンホテル 一階 3 Chome-2-9 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0023, Japan)
TO: Don Quijote (3 Chome-36-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0022, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 15 minutes turning right out of the restaurant and walking straight through Shinjuku station before turning left onto 新宿ランブリングロード to enter the store
Before continuing your night out, make a stop at your soon-to-be favorite store Donki, also known as “if Tiktok Shop came to life this would be it.” Don Quijote stores are scattered around Japan and notably famous for their vast and eclectic range of products including everything from groceries, electronics, and household goods to clothing, cosmetics, and luxury items. The extensive product selection makes it a one-stop shop for both locals and tourists, and if there’s some item you forgot or more likely—something you didn’t even realize you needed—then Don Quijote is sure to have it. The layout of these stores is somewhat chaotic and maze-like, with narrow aisles packed from floor to ceiling with merchandise that almost never aligns with the other products sold nearby. Screw logical categories, you’re embarking on a treasure hunt-like shopping experience where the secret booty in question is unexpected and interesting tax-free shopping items. The best part is that the majority of Don Quijote locations are conveniently open twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week, so you squeeze in cheap, last-minute souvenir shopping for all your family and friends whenever you have the time! In the many aisles spanning eight floors of Donki goodness in Shinjuku, you’re sure to spot the chain’s distinctive blue penguin mascot, "Donpen," featured in the colorful, eye-catching signage peppering every marketable surface. A lively and energetic atmosphere fueled by the good feelings of retail therapy is ever-present under the bright lights which may confuse your circadian rhythm as to the time outside this trance-inducing commercial portal, and even if you don’t walk out with anything, the catchy jingle played throughout the aisles is sure to stay with you after your trip. All this being said, it’s no wonder that Don Quijote has become a cultural phenomenon in Japan over the years, with a presence so widespread and diverse that it has become a part of the daily life for many locals and a must-visit for tourists. Like many visitors before us, we walked out with much more than we intended—including a shiba sake glass and plant kit, Naruto socks, and the face mask I ended up purchasing!
Pro Tip:
If it ends up raining any of the days you’re visiting Japan, Donki is likely the most convenient and cheapest place you can go to purchase an umbrella for the day.
Golden Gai
FROM: Don Quijote (3 Chome-36-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0022, Japan)
TO: Golden Gai (1 Chome-1-6 Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0021, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 8 minutes straight on 武蔵野通り then turn right before Mister Donut Shinjuku and right again onto 新宿ゴールデン街 G2通り to enter the general area of this bar-hopping scene
After your Donki pit stop, continue on to enjoy a night cap from one of the many bars dotting the area of Golden Gai. While we had foolishly arrived looking for a specific establishment called Golden Gai, this actually refers to the whole area of tightly packed, narrow alleys retaining the charming atmosphere of post-war Japan amidst the unique tiny bars each with their own themed decor. Tiny in this case means really tiny—in other words you’ll have to scour a bit for an empty counter seat since most traditional establishments can only serve four to six guests at a time. Luckily for you, the district is home to over two-hundred small bars and eateries with themes ranging from jazz and punk rock to literature and art, creating a diverse and eclectic nightlife scene embodying a nostalgic glimpse into Tokyo’s past. Given the variety of tastes which can be catered to here, the whole area has been a popular haunt for writers, artists, filmmakers, and musicians since the post-war era. Unlike the more commercialized nightlife areas in Tokyo, Golden Gai has managed to survive the rapid modernization of the city despite the high real estate value in Shinjuku to offer an authentic drinking experience fostering intimate interactions between patrons and bartenders. This inherent proximity curates a welcoming environment where you can actually engage with local residents as a tourist!
We popped into what I believe is technically called “租界” under the white “BOOTH” sign, although to ourselves we called it “Bar Jar” since the Japanese characters on the red neon sign follow the same shape as this English word. Inside we enjoyed plum shōchū and pleasant conversation as we chatted with the married couple from India to our right and the two hostel-mates who had met the night before from Australia and Canada on our left. As you can tell from this description, you’re likely to meet travelers from around the world at the counter next to you, which adds to the thrill of this global experience. Given the closeness to the bartender’s space, you’ll likely chat with them as well—or progress to everyone taking sake shots together like we did!—and even if they merely listen they’re typically doing so to curate the ideal atmosphere. Case in point, our group of strangers-turned-acquaintances was discussing our positions on the Drake vs. Kendrick Lamar beef, leading our bartender to queue up all their diss tracks for us to listen to and analyze together. To say this was merely a highlight would be a gross understatement, and given how cheap our final bill ended up being you’d be making a grave mistake to skip out on Golden Gai!
Pro Tip:
You’re going to need cash to enjoy any drinks within the tiny bars of Golden Gai, so be sure to keep some extra yen handy for this late night experience.
Day 3
Shinjuku Gyoen
FROM: Hotel Century Southern Tower (2 Chome-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0053, Japan)
TO: Shinjuku Gyoen (11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0014, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 16 minutes turning right out of the hotel until you turn right again to walk through Shinjuku station onto 甲州街道/国道20号 and continue straight until the garden entrance is on your right
Explore one more vast green space during your final morning in Tokyo as you stroll through Shinjuku Gyoen. Constructed during the Edo period as feudal lord Naito Kiyonari's residence, the garden later became property of the imperial family before being opened to the public after World War II. With its evolution of ownership reflecting Japan’s transition from feudal times through modernization into the contemporary era, today Shinjuku Gyoen features three distinct garden styles. As expected, you can find a traditional Japanese landscape garden, but there’s also sections representative of a formal French garden and an English landscape garden. This blend of styles offers a visual contrast of horticultural traditions in one location, and in the spring the garden is one of Tokyo's most popular spots for hanami with over 1,000 cherry trees of various species blooming at different times. Regardless of when you visit, Shinjuku Gyoen is a year-round attraction, offering seasonal beauty in all its forms. In addition to cherry blossoms in the spring, the garden showcases vibrant azaleas and roses in the summer, colorful foliage in the fall, and cool serene landscapes in the winter.
Spanning 144 acres, you likely won’t make it through every inch of this spacious oasis in the heart of one of Tokyo's busiest districts, but no matter where you turn you’re sure to discover vast lawns, ponds, and wooded areas offer a peaceful retreat from the city's hustle and bustle. Keep an eye out for interesting viewpoints like the pagoda overlooking the pond as pictured to the right, as the garden also houses structures like a large, modern greenhouse tending to a variety of tropical and subtropical plants and tea houses providing visitors with a rich cultural experience. As we unfortunately discovered on our first attempt at entering the garden, the entire property is closed off every Monday. When you do get to visit you’ll need to pay an entrance fee of ¥500—that is, unless you happen to stop by during an environmental holiday when admission is waived like during Environment Day on June 2nd, 2024!
TNCA Studio
FROM: Shinjuku Gyoen (11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0014, Japan)
TO: TNCA Minami-Aoyama Studio (3-chōme-8-2 Minamiaoyama, Minato City, Tokyo 107-0062, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (8 min, direct, ~¥2,300)
For the first activity of the day embrace your artistic spirit during a kintsugi class at TNCA Minami-Aoyama Studio. This Japanese art form is the practice of repairing broken pottery and thus turning something old into something new which is just as, or even more beautiful than before. Stemming from a Japanese belief that breakage and repair are part of the history of an object, your small-group interactive class will repair damaged items with lacquer mixed with gold instead of making the usual wasteful decision to throw such “broken” objects away. In doing so you’ll apply the principle of wabi-sabi, an aesthetic which encourages people to find beauty in imperfection and thus accept the fleeting nature of an existence that is impermanent and incomplete. Ideally, you’ll leave with a new perspective on the value of material objects which you can apply to your daily toss or reuse decisions back home.
When participating in the actual experience, you’ll begin by donning a samue, or a traditional Japanese craftsperson's garment. The master potter leading the class will guide you through the technique of kintsugi, elaborating on the meaning behind the art form before demonstrating via a presentation of videos how to correctly engage in each technique. You’ll then give it a shot as you attempt to replicate the same mannerisms using a ceramic plate supplied by the studio to refinish one traditional pottery item. This will involve scraping and shaping your imperfect crack to make it an artistic motif rather than a mistake before securing the two pieces together and embellishing the joint with shiny gold powder. You’ll leave with a newfound appreciation for Japanese aesthetics along with a unique repaired item you get to take home as a souvenir from your lesson.
Lunch - Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi Hills
FROM: TNCA Minami-Aoyama Studio (3-chōme-8-2 Minamiaoyama, Minato City, Tokyo 107-0062, Japan)
TO: Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi Hills (Japan, 〒106-0032 Tokyo, Minato City, Roppongi, 6 Chome−12−2 六本木けやき坂通り 3F)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (8 min, direct, ~¥2,100)
By this point in the day you’re likely starting to get a bit hungry, meaning there’s no better time for yet another omakase meal! For lunch, you’ll be dining at the famed Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi Hills which is run by the second son of chef Jiro Ono. If you live under a rock and don’t recognize this name, Jiro is none other than the star of the 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, highlighting the excellence of this 85-year-old sushi master and his world renowned restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro. While you’re not going to taste the perfect piece of sushi served in the basement of that Ginza office building anytime soon—as the few legendary counter seats in the tiny space are strictly reserved for celebrities, politicians, and other worldly figures at this point in time—you can get a taste of Jiro’s relentless, lifelong quest via the two Michelin star restaurant in Roppongi. This branch of Sukiyabashi Jiro offers a sublime Edomae, or Tokyo-style concept handed down from the renowned main restaurant, meaning the quality of the sushi served is sure to be divine, but you won’t find anything other than sushi and one label of beer and Japanese sake available.
You’ll be dining under the guise of chef Takashi Ono, who apprenticed himself at the age of 19 to his acclaimed father, picking up his culinary skills and sushi principles along the way. Since you won’t be able to get a seat at Jiro’s location, you’ll be pleased to hear that the sushi here is made using the exact recipe of the main haunt! These transferred recipes extend to the fish, nori seaweed, sushi rice, the sourish sushi vinegar, tea, and the temperature-controlled store of sushi toppings sourced from the same Toyosu Market mediator who has procured high-quality ingredients for Sukiyabashi Jiro over the years. If it’s not obvious enough yet, this commitment to consistency allows the branch location to offer high-quality sushi worthy of the name “Sukiyabashi Jiro,” and it means this is your best option to taste authentic nigiri akin to what was shown in the documentary! For lunch, you’ll need to book through a third-party platform to ensure you secure one of the eight seats at the counter, which also means you unfortunately will have to pay a service fee to taste the prix fixe menu. Whether you opt for the fifteen piece nigiri course or thirteen piece course with four types of sashimi, the service will flow in the typical order starting with lightly flavored seafood such as flatfish, followed by shellfish, bluefin tuna, blue-skinned fish, and grilled seafood.
We opted for the cheaper, fifteen piece course which flew by in a rapid forty-five minute flurry as the chef and his two apprentices whipped up pieces of sushi faster than you’ve ever seen! The skillful manner in which chef Takashi Ono shapes a handful of rice before topping it with wasabi and a piece of fish happens in a matter of seconds, highlighting how many decades this true professional has spent honing his craft. While I didn’t love every piece of seafood that was served—the abalone ended up being a bit much for me—the tiger shrimp and various tuna cuts we feasted on were absolutely scrumptious! Given that the chef can speak both English and Chinese we conversed with him a bit, but for the most part the quiet, warm wooden space is designed to be simple both visually and auditorily so you can affix all your attention on the sushi plated before your eyes.
Pro Tip:
Don’t be fooled: if you order any beverages like beer or sake, this is an additional fee added to your already expensive meal, which also applies if you take the chef up on ordering extra pieces of nigiri at the end of the set course.
Senso-ji
FROM: Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi Hills (Japan, 〒106-0032 Tokyo, Minato City, Roppongi, 6 Chome−12−2 六本木けやき坂通り 3F)
TO: Senso-ji (2 Chome-3-1 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 9 min to Roppongi Station → Ginza Station via Local Kita-Koshigaya Hibiya Line → Asakusa Station via Local Asakusa Ginza Line then walk another 2 min to the temple (36 min, 5 stops then 10 stops switch at Ginza Station, ¥210)
After lunch, travel over to Sensō-ji, Tokyo’s oldest temple founded in 645 AD which is dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy and compassion. Leading up to the temple is Nakamise-dori, a lively shopping street filled with over eighty shops and stalls selling traditional snacks, souvenirs, and crafts to worshippers. If you’re looking to purchase stereotypical “Japanese” goodies to take home like folding fans, chopsticks, kimonos, and the like—you’re sure to find a wide selection here amongst the crowds of tourists dressed up like geishas. The complex includes stunning traditional Japanese architecture embodied via key structures like the iconic Kaminarimon Thunder Gate with its massive red lantern, the Hōzōmon Treasure House Gate, and the majestic Main Hall.
The five-story pagoda adds to the temple’s picturesque beauty while the overall area maintains a vibrant, festive atmosphere. Visiting in the thick of the afternoon, we were totally overrun by swarms of visitors everywhere, making this one of our quicker temple stops as we hastily observed the buildings before escaping the ginormous crowd. If you’d also prefer to avoid a sea of people, you’ll likely want to visit the always-open temple grounds early in the morning. During typical operating hours from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, you can spend time partaking in spiritual rituals like incense burning and reading your fortune from paper omikuji strips, which come with a small fee added to the otherwise free experience.
Kappabashi-dori
FROM: Senso-ji (2 Chome-3-1 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo 111-0032, Japan)
TO: Kappabashi-dori (3 Chome-18-2 Matsugaya, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0036, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 9 minutes down 奥山おまいりまち and turn right at 六区通り onto the street
Once you’re satisfied with your spiritual experiences for the day, head on over to Kappabashi-dori, a street renowned for its extensive variety of over 170 shops specializing in kitchenware, pottery, and ceramics. These merchants offer a wide range of high-quality items, from everyday dishes to artisan tea sets, sake cups, and rice bowls. Pottery is an important aspect of Japanese culture and dining, with a focus on aesthetics and craftsmanship making the chosen dishes a key component of each meal. As a hub for kitchenware, Kappabashi-dori allows pottery enthusiasts to find everything they need in one place from traditional Japanese ceramics to modern, contemporary designs. In addition to pottery, the street offers other essential kitchen items such as knives, cookware, utensils, and even plastic food models used in restaurant displays. Whether you’re a professional chef, restaurant owner, or home cook, Kappabashi-dori caters to all levels of buyers and has become a must-see stop for tourists looking for handcrafted kitchenware and pottery to take home.
As my travel companion and best friend is a big purveyor of pottery, we knew we had to take a walk down Kappabashi-dori—but even if this isn’t your usual pastime you’re sure to find some interesting items! After setting out with no purchase intent my interest was quickly piqued by adorable handcrafted origami bird chopstick holders and a koi fish soup bowl shaped by skilled artisans from Hitsuru. We progressed to an antique shop full of entirely vintage wares, which consumed the next hour of our day as we chatted with the local shopkeeper via a translator app to understand the age of each ornate item before walking out with a few pieces of history ourselves!
Dinner - Nobu Tokyo
FROM: Hotel Century Southern Tower (2 Chome-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-0053, Japan)
TO: Nobu Tokyo (１Ｆ 4 Chome-1-28 Toranomon, Minato City, Tokyo 105-0001, Japan)
TRANSPORTATION: taxi ride acquired via Uber or off the street (13 min, direct, ~¥3,500)
Rest and recharge back at the hotel before gearing up for one more fine dining experience. If you’re a longtime Destination 195 reader, you may already know about my quest to dine at every Nobu location around the world. If not, then this should answer your question as to why I chose to dine at Nobu Tokyo rather than any other sushi restaurant in the city! Like all the other chain locations of this iconic establishment, a dinner at Nobu is sure to encompass some of the most delicious seafood dishes you’ve ever tasted. Given this was not our first rodeo, we both ordered our favorite lychee and piña martinis before settling in for the middle tier of the chef’s omakase tasting course, which for dinner can be purchased for ¥14,000, 18,000, or 28,000. Like other omakase meals I’ve detailed during my trip to Japan, the increasing price scale does not enlarge the quantity of food you’re presented with but rather it improves the quality of the ingredients used. Regardless of your selected variation, you’ll be served an appetizer, sushi tasting platter, sashimi salad, fish dish, wagyu dish, and soba tasting before wrapping up the meal with a dessert spread. We were pleasantly surprised to find that the fish dish during our course was none other than the infamous black cod miso. This Nobu-created concoction has spread to fine seafood establishments across the world attempting to replicate the buttery, flakey consistency of this black cod filet marinated in Den miso sauce for a few days before its baked in an oven and finished with a salamander broil. This is undoubtedly my favorite dish at any and all Nobu establishments, so any time it’s served during a set menu is a cause for celebration! While the restaurant does have an à la carte menu available, it’s important to note that if you make an omakase reservation the restaurant will prepare as such and not allow you to downgrade menus when you arrive.
Pro Tip:
Answer “Question #2 From the Store” in the reservation link above to have a fun message commemorating your trip decorated on the celebratory dessert.
How Much Do Three Days in Tokyo Cost?
Following the above Tokyo itinerary ideas totaled $1,878.93, costing me $626.31 per day as a recent graduate:
Transportation
$69.73 - taxi ride from Haneda Airport to Shinjuku
$60.89 - all other taxi rides throughout Tokyo, split among two people
$17.80 - solo Suica public transit rides around the city
Food and Drink
$16.06 - grilled yakiniku during lunch at Gyu-Kaku
$106.93 - omakase sushi dinner at The Bellwood
$22.31 - breakfast buffet at the Hotel Century Southern Tower
$40.25 - catch you own fish dinner and sake at Zaou
$211.73 - omakase sushi lunch with extra nigiri piece at the infamous Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi Hills
$149.10 - omakase dinner at Nobu Tokyo
$20.10 - morning coffee and pastry runs at Starbucks
Activities
$111.37 - race down the road on go-karts with Street Kart Shibuya
$101.98 - relaxing scalp massage from Head Spa Belle Cheveu
$15.40 - online tickets purchased in advanced for Shibuya Sky
$178.68 - sumo Grand Tournament tickets hosted at the Ryogoku Kokugikan
$58.65 - kintsugi class repairing broken pottery at TNCA Studio
Souvenirs
$127.74 - black street style dress from United Tokyo
$26.44 - umbrella and souvenir trinkets from Don Quijote
$64.48 - pottery purchased on Kappabashi-dori
Lodging
$479.29 - four nights in the Hotel Century Southern Tower, split amongst two people
Prior to planning our Japan trip, my best friend and I decided that this was without a doubt a splurge trip—and we were going to do every possible activity we could fit into our itinerary! While that worked for us and led us to consume so much fine dining that we hardly had any appetite after three days of nonstop eating, you may need to be more cost conscious. If I were in your shoes, I’d cut out either the Nobu dinner or the Sukiyabashi lunch since eating this many multi-course, omakase meals makes it hard to enjoy all the food served towards the end of your trip. If you only want to splurge on one meal, it should undoubtedly be dinner at the Bellwood, which is conveniently the cheapest option too! It goes without saying, but default to public transit whenever possible if you’re on a tighter budget, and definitely exert more self-restraint than I did when it came to clothing and ceramic shopping!
It’s important to note that my above calculations are slightly undercutting the true total price, as I’m not accounting for the few hundred yen I spent in cash for gachapon tchotchkes on Takeshita-dori or a few rounds of sake on Golden Gai. Since I already took out and converted the cash, I consider that to be “free money” in my girl math calculations, but to be truly prudent you should account for the few thousand yen you’ll likely spend in cash as well. Since a handful of the experiences described above are cash-only, be sure to bring some spare yen with you even if you’re not planning to use it—you never know when this will come in handy!
What to Wear in Tokyo?
Tokyo presents an interesting intersection of aesthetics which speak to its bustling cosmopolitan characteristics that can simultaneously cater to so many different tastes. In the daytime, you’ll find many locals dressed in work wear, with the vast majority of salary men dressed in suits. This is to be expected in pretty much any city during the week, but even as the leisurely weekend rolls around you’ll still find the majority of residents rocking neutral colors and relatively understated attire that would be acceptable in an office setting. On women, this often manifests in seifuku fashion, or “school-girl” style with uniform elements like puffy sleeves, pleated skirts, sailor collars, knee-high socks, and tees layered under any strappy tops.
On the other hand, this prim and proper style is often contrasted by the self-expressive youth rocking the latest in Tokyo street style, from colorful chunky sneakers with gigantic platform bases to graphic tees and cargo pants. Distinct youth subcultures are easily identified in Harajuku and Shibuya, where alternative edgy black attire is sold alongside cosplay costumes reminiscent of the outfits worn by anime and manga characters. With such a diversity in local niches that arise from distinct aspects of Japanese identity—think maid cafe dresses for example—you could really get away with wearing the “craziest” outfit you own. If you’re looking for some general guidelines on how to incorporate all of these elements, however, be sure to pack pieces from each category listed below:
Teeny Tops
balance baggy bottoms and chunky platform sneakers with a tiny baby tee on top—extra points for a fun graphic
Pleated Skirts
pull in a nod to school-girl, seifuku style with pleated skirts that may as well be part of your class uniform
Cargo Pants
exude street-style cool with chunky cargos that have enough pockets to hold all the Takeshita trinkets you’ll win
Professional Pops
blend in with salarymen on the street with business casual touches like button downs, blazers, and popped collars
Colorful Kicks
make your outfit pop with colorful kicks that would make any seasoned sneakerhead swoon
Braid Ribbons
tie off a braided hairstyle with dainty ribbons to add a touch of kawaii cuteness while staying cool during humid days
Is Tokyo Worth the Hype?
1000% yes and if you don’t have a trip to Tokyo booked right now close this article and open Google flights stat! All jokes aside, Tokyo is quite literally the most inspiring city I’ve ever been to—and has raised my metropolitan standards to a level so high that American cities will never be able to compete. It bewilders me that Tokyo is the most populous city in the world contained on a tiny island, and yet there was not one speck of trash or disrespectful graffiti tag to be found anywhere. Coupled with the tranquil quiet you’ll notice walking down city streets that are so ambient you can hear birds chirping and the soft wind blowing by, you may as well close your eyes and imagine you’re deep in the forest, because even in the middle of this dense city: it’s that peaceful. I can’t comprehend how this is even possible when contrasted with cities like New York and Los Angeles, but the respectful, honorable nature of all the kind Japanese locals you’ll encounter will help to explain how such a utopian city can exist in the world today. If that praise wasn’t convincing enough, Tokyo is so robustly developed and willing to embrace forward-looking innovations that you will find cutting-edge experiences in whatever domain makes your heart sing. Whether that’s luxury fashion pushing the boundaries of convention, transformational dining experiences which take your palate around the world, or virtual and in-person entertainment options that transport you straight into your favorite game or show franchise—Tokyo truly has it all and I haven’t even delved into the historical, spiritual, or self-care aspects available in each neighborhood! I don’t think you could ever run out of things to do in Tokyo, and even if you stayed for a month straight you’d barely be scratching the surface of all the fun that can be had there. That being said, three and a half days was not nearly enough and I cannot wait to make a trip back to Tokyo when the opportunity presents itself!
