2 Days Traversing Taormina
TRAVEL DATES: JULY 16-18, 2024 | EST. READING TIME: 28 MIN
IN THIS GUIDE ✺
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Pining for an Italian island escape set in the destination of your favorite HBO series?
Embrace la dolce vita in the “Pearl of the Ionian Sea,” Taormina, where modern elite tourism was born. Here the three ingredients of picturesque natural beauty, vibrant handcrafted art, and centuries-old history meet: the beauty of the landscape whispers with memories of all the Mediterranean cultures which have occupied the island. Whether you’re exploring the Greco-Roman ancient theater or shopping around for Moorish-inspired pottery, the historical tapestry influencing the distinct atmosphere of Sicily today unites the threads of a multitude of cultures past. Even Sicily itself stands out as a differentiated entity from the mainland of Italy, offering visitors one-of-a-kind foods from granita and cannoli to arancini and pistachio flavors. Bask in your sunshine-filled escape and you’ll soon see why this cliffside town has exploded in popularity as a coveted tourist destination over the past few years!
Two Day Taormina Itinerary
In a hurry? Here’s a time-stamped overview of the detailed Taormina travel guide you’ll find below:
Day 1
11:00 - 11:45 AM: 🚗 Drive from the Catania airport to Taormina in your rental car (45 min)
12:30 - 3:30 PM: 🛍️ Shop around Corso Umberto I, taking in the best Sicilian storefronts (3 hr)
3:30 - 4:00 PM: 🍦 Take a shopping break and cool down with gelato at Levante Gelato Artigianale (30 min)
4:00 - 4:45 PM: 🏺 Grab a souvenir from Managó Ceramiche Siciliane and finish your shopping haul (45 min)
4:45 - 6:45 PM: 🛀 Return to the hotel to freshen up and prepare for the night ahead (2 hr)
6:45 - 7:30 PM: 🍹 Enjoy apéritifs with a side of people watching at the Enoteca before dinner (45 min)
7:30 - 9:30 PM: 🍝 Dig into a Michelin guide menu at wine-bar-turned-fine-dining-eatery, Vineria Modì (2 hr)
Day 2
10:00 - 10:45 AM: 🍓 Taste the delight that is granite scooped out of a warm brioche bun at Bam Bar (45 min)
11:00 - 11:45 AM: 🌋 Tour the ancient Greco-Roman theater, Teatro Antico di Taormina (1 hr 15 min)
11:55 AM - 12:30 PM: 🪷 Stroll through lush cliffside public gardens, the Villa Comunale di Taormina (35 min)
12:40 - 1:15 PM: 🍘 Taste the Sicilian speciality arancini for lunch from Rosticceria Da Cristina 2 (35 min)
1:15 - 1:45 PM: 🍨 Try another infamous Taormina sweet treat shop and visit Gelatomania (30 min)
2:00 - 5:30 PM: 🚡 Take a gondola down to the beach to lounge around Isola Bella all afternoon (4 hr 30 min)
5:45 - 7:45 PM: 🛌 Take a much needed nap and get ready so you can dress to impress during dinner (2 hr)
8:00 - 10:00 PM: 🍷 Order a feast of Sicilian favorites while enjoying cliffside views at Ristorante Timeo (2 hr)
How to Get Around Taormina?
Lace up your walking shoes, because there’s pretty much no other way to get around Taormina! Set into a scenic cliffside, the majority of the streets within the town are pedestrian-only, with few car routes wrapped around the outskirts so you can get in and out of Taormina. You’ll see Vespas parked alongside alleys and street corners, but unless you happen to have a whirlwind Sicilian romance with a charming local driving you around on the back of his bike—it’s probably not worth the hassle. The good news is the entire town only covers 3.3 square miles, so it should never take you more than a 20 minute walk to get anywhere, which is why you don’t really need a vehicle anyways. If you’d like to head down to the water, there’s a cable car which connects Taormina with the Mazzarò beach area and nearby Isola Bella, and you can purchase these tickets in person at the gondola station for €10 round trip.
It’s important to note the associated geography means you’ll be traversing a significant amount of stairs—it’s not as bad as Positano or Dubrovnik, but still something to consider if anyone in your travel party struggles to climb stairs or requires the use of assistive devices like wheelchairs or crutches.
How to Get from the Airport to Taormina?
FROM: Catania Airport (Via Fontanarossa, 95121 Catania CT, Italy)
TO: NH Collection Taormina (Via Circonvallazione, 11, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
Two airports serve the island of Sicily—the Catania and Palermo airports—serving the east and west sides of the autonomous Italian region respectively. If you’re wondering how to get to Taormina from the Palermo airport, however, you’re asking the wrong question! Commuting by car from Palermo to Taormina entails at least a 3 hour 30 minute drive across the island, and that’s without accounting for the time you’ll spend picking up a rental car. If for whatever reason you have to fly into Palermo due to your origin location, you’re better suited spending at least a day enjoying a northern town along the way like Cefalù to break up the long drive and see more of Sicily. If you only plan to visit Taormina, flying into the Catania airport should be your preferred approach, since this route only entails about a 50 minute drive.
DRIVE: Speaking of driving, this is by far going to be the easiest, most efficient way for you to get around the island. Both at home and abroad, I’ve had the most pleasant, seamless rental car experiences with Sixt—every time I’ve used their service the pick-up and drop-off process has been a complete breeze, with the entire exchange lasting no more than 5 minutes. There are Sixt locations at both airports, so regardless of where you fly into or out of, you’ll have a convenient way to drop off your vehicle. Since this isn’t a given in Sicily, be sure to book an automatic vehicle if you don’t know how to drive a manual stick-shift! If you don’t want to wait in line for hours at a legacy vendor like Hertz, be sure to book with Sixt!
While I can’t speak to this experience myself since my boyfriend handled all of the driving (#passengerprincess for life), vehicles drive on the right side of the road on the island, so there shouldn’t be too steep of a learning curve for American drivers. If you do plan to cruise down coastal highways, do know that the locals you’ll encounter are quite rogue—switching lanes and speeding without signaling—and you may have to dodge some stray traffic signs placed in vehicle lanes rather than the adjacent shoulder. Nonetheless, we survived six days of international driving for the first time without a single bump in the road—so if we accomplished this you definitely can too! Although we didn’t end up needing the full coverage insurance I had purchased from Sixt, I was warned about general car theft, popped tires, and the inevitable dings that can occur when navigating narrow, single-lane cobblestone roads, so for peace of mind throughout your trip I’d advise you to add on the recommended insurance package.
Pro Tip:
When driving across the island you’ll likely encounter toll stops, but rest assured if you don’t have euros on hand you can pay with a credit card as well!
BUS: If the thought of driving a rental car in a foreign country sounds terrifying—which is extremely valid, since after five international trips this was my first time doing it—you could always catch the bus from Catania to Taormina. Departing from the Catania Fontanarossa Airport Bus Stop, you’ll hop on the Etna Trasporti 07 or Interbus S.p.A. IN14 bus towards Taormina, heading to Taormina Capo, which entails a 1 hour 20 minute drive. Both of these tickets can be purchased online in advance for only $5.80 or €7 one-way respectively. If you need to bus over from the Palermo airport, buckle up for a 5 hour ride! You can either commute through the center of the island through Catania or around the northeast coastline through Messina, but either way you’ll be using a total of one train and two bus routes:
Both journeys begin at Palermo Airport Bus Stop, taking you to Palermo Via Tommaso Fazello via a Prestia e Comande train heading towards the Palermo Central Train Station for $6.80.
From there, the former route involves a Sais Autolinee 117036 bus taking you to the Catania Central Bus Station for $15.70 where you’ll then board the same Etna Trasporti bus described above for a grand total of $28.30 spent on this trip.
Alternatively, from Palermo Via Tommaso Fazello you can take a different Sais Autolinee 217006 bus heading towards Messina Central Train Station connecting you through Messina Piazza della Repubblica for $15.70 at which point you’ll board your final Interbus S.p.A. IN14 bus towards Giardini Naxos, dropping you off at Taormina Via Nazionale 175 for $4.90. The grand total for this alternate route is $27.40
Writing all of that out was exhausting enough, so now imagine traveling by bus and train for five hours—in other words, you’re really better off flying into the Catania airport.
Where to Stay in Taormina?
CLIFFSIDE CHATEAU: NH Collection Taormina (premium room with terrace and jacuzzi, $1,049.66 for 2 nights split among 2 people)
For a luxurious 5-star experience—although one that’s still three times cheaper than the White Lotus San Domenico hotel!—look no further than the NH Collection Taormina. Located in the heart of beautiful Taormina mere minutes away from pretty much every main attraction the town has to offer, this boutique hotel combines early 20th century features with modern touches to create a truly sophisticated aesthetic.
The hotel’s 63 large and luxurious rooms are furnished with warm, earthy tones to create a cozy feel, and the vast majority come with a balcony or terrace so you can enjoy unparalleled panoramic views over Taormina and the sea beyond. Even if your room doesn’t come with either of these fixtures, never fear, since you can simply head up to the rooftop terrace and enjoy the Sicilian sunshine there! For dining options, the NH Collection Taormina boasts two restaurants: Zefiro, where the chef prepares a modern take on authentic regional flavors, and the Lu Souli Bar and Restaurant where you can sip on a cocktail or have a quick snack by the pool. Speaking of pools, the second floor houses both a waterfall water fixture with majestic fountains to cool off under, or you can take your relaxation a step further and unwind by booking a service at the nearby Fusion Spa!
We stayed in a premium room with terrace and jacuzzi which came with a king bed fitted with a sleep better mattress, large flat screen TV, rain effect shower, and NH Collection bathroom amenities among other fixings. While the room name mentions a jacuzzi, our hot tub didn’t actually work during our stay—despite multiple requests to the front desk to fix this issue—and even if it was functioning properly the water which fills the tub isn’t actually hot, it’s just heated by the sun during the day. That being said, I wouldn’t waste your money on this room type and simply opt for a cheaper offering with a terrace, since you can enjoy the pool for free anyways! If you arrive with a rental car, it’s important to note that parking costs €35 per day and cannot be reserved in advance.
What to Do in Taormina?
Day 1
FROM: NH Collection Taormina (Via Circonvallazione, 11, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Corso Umberto I (98039 Taormina, Metropolitan City of Messina, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: exit and walk around the corner across the street where Vespas are parked, walking down pedestrian walkway Via Don Giovanni Bosco and left down the first staircase you’ll come across
Corso Umberto I
While I typically provide a very prescriptive itinerary, a journey to Sicily is more of a vacation than a trip, and given the small nature of the town there’s no need to rush around to try and cram in all the famous sites. You could easily cover the entirety of Taormina in an hour, but your goal should instead be to embrace the ‘dolce far niente’ Italian philosophy, in other words—the sweetness of doing nothing. So rather than rushing down Corso Umberto I, the bustling main street running through the heart of town, aim to eat, drink, shop, and be merry in this choose-your-own-adventure style experience, popping in the storefronts and wine bars that specifically call to you.
From my recent vacation, the following establishments stood out to me as staples in the ideal Taormina experience, but should you only have time to visit a few haunts, savoring the moment will provide a much more authentic escapade instead of rushing to check off every stop. Beginning at the end of Corso Umberto nearest to the NH Collection Taormina and continuing in the order you’ll pass each site, you should consider stopping at:
Le Bar Louis Vuitton — If you’re feeling a bit parched in the beginning of your jaunt, pop into the Louis Vuitton store. Hidden behind the designer digs is an elegant Sky Bar situated on a terrace overlooking the Mediterranean sea. This exquisite setting is the perfect place to enjoy a gourmet aperitif, featuring traditional regional delicacies reinterpreted with a contemporary flair accompanied by signature cocktails like the Isola Bella or La Rocca crafted especially for this unique destination. The bar staff can even surprise you with a tailor-made cocktail prepared exactly according to your specific preferences—call that high-end luxury!
Piazza IX Aprile — You’ll find the best coastal views of Mount Etna from the first square you pass through, Piazza IX Aprile. The Torre dell'Orologio medieval clock tower is a notable landmark adding historical charm alongside the Church of San Giuseppe, which you can pop into to admire the Baroque architecture. If any events are scheduled while you’re in town they’re most likely going to be held in this piazza, like the red carpet Taormina Film Festival I saw being set up during our stay—there’s almost always a ceremony wedding happening at the church too, so keep an eye out for newlyweds!
Il Sandalo Caprese - As you continue your stroll you’ll pass a Capri sandal workshop where you can get custom sandals made from genuine Italian and Tuscan leather commissioned for quite a reasonable price considering this fine footwear is hand-made on the spot! Harkening back to ancient Roman origins, Il Sandalo Caprese meticulously prepares the same leather sandals with delicate bands that wrap around the ankle that emperor Tiberius wore when he arrived in Capri. A pervasive symbol of an entirely Italian craftsmanship, this particular company was founded in 1964 and has been forming sandals ever since made with simple and resistant materials, yet enriched with details that convey elegance and preciousness, to keep the tradition alive. I couldn’t say no to an artisanal souvenir like this and designed a strappy, gladiator style pair tied with a neutral snakeskin leather which was ready for me to wear only a few hours later! If you’re seeking a truly authentic piece of Sicily to bring home with you, look no further than this custom Capri sandal shop!
Nino and Friends — Just across the street from the sandal workshop is Nino and Friends, a carefully curated amalgamation of exclusively Italian products such as olive oil, truffles, balsamic vinegar and much more. Initially a producer of limoncello, today the group has expanded to produce artisanal chocolate and pastry products that you can sample for free inside the store! This sensory experience encompasses the flavors and smells of the native land and traditions, allowing tourists who visit the stores to take home a genuine piece of Italy. The employees are quite generous with their free offerings, and you’ll typically see 4-5 different product samples being handed out, so you might as well pop inside to taste the niche excellence that is gourmet Italian treats!
San Domenico Palace Hotel —It wouldn’t be right to travel all the way to Taormina and not see the famous White Lotus season 2 hotel! While you can’t actually go inside—believe me, I tried and the numerous guards said “no”—you can explore the exterior plaza and snap a photo in front of the namesake facade of this historic hotel which was originally a 14th-century convent! You’ll have to travel a bit off the left of the main street down Via San Domenico, but I’d say taking a few extra steps is undoubtedly worth it!
Piazza Duomo — As you pass into the second main piazza of Taormina, you’ll find the Romanesque Duomo di Taormina, an important historical and religious site built in the 13th century. Just steps away from the cathedral’s entryway is an ornate fountain, adorned with a stone lion, which dates back to the 16th century.
Dessert - Levante Gelato Artigianale
Enjoy a cool refreshing treat after your long afternoon stroll down Corso Umberto I, popping into Levante Gelato Artigianale for a scoop of gelato. This famous establishment has locations in Ortigia, Syracuse, and Taormina, serving up ice cream, granitas, cakes, and small pastries handcrafted daily in their laboratory with excellently fresh 100% Italian raw materials, mainly produced from the local territory of Sicily. No matter which flavor of gelato you order—I’m partial to fior di latte myself—you NEED to add on a scoop of freshly whipped cream, the €0.50 surcharge is completely worth it. The treats themselves are quite reasonably priced, ranging from €3 cones or cups in the smallest size to €7 for the largest maxi offering. While you’re here, you might as well order a Sicilian cannolo as well! This classic Italian pastry originated in Sicily and has become one of the island's most famous desserts, with the name meaning "little tube" in reference to the pastry's shape. This shell is a crispy, fried dough that’s rolled into a tube shape before frying which gives it its distinct texture—crispy and slightly blistered on the outside. The traditional filling for a cannolo is sweetened ricotta cheese, often made from sheep's milk, which gives it a creamy and slightly tangy flavor.
Managó Ceramiche Siciliane
After you’re feeling re-energized following your gelato-fueled sugar rush, finish up your retail therapy for today by perusing shelves upon shelves of traditional Sicilian pottery. If you only leave Taormina with one item, this should undoubtedly be it, but even if your wallet is hurting after your initial stroll down Corso Umberto I consider this stop a historic inquiry into the lore of the island! Walk three minutes back the way you came down Corso Umberto I, turning left onto Via di Giovanni until you reach Managó Ceramiche Siciliane.
Assuming you’ve watched the White Lotus, you’re likely already familiar with the most famous form of Sicilian pottery, the "Teste di Moro" or Moorish Head planters. According to legend, during the 11th century Arab rule in Sicily, a beautiful young woman lived in the Kalsa district of Palermo. She spent her days tending to her plants on her balcony and eventually began a passionate affair with a passing Moorish merchant who saw her and instantly became captivated by her beauty. After discovering the Moor had a family back home and planned to return to them, she beheaded him in a fit of vengeance to ensure he would never leave her and made his head into a planter that she then placed on her balcony. Inspired by the tale, Sicilian artisans continue to create ornate ceramic head planters to this day, often depicted with crowns and expressions conveying both beauty and tragedy.
Another common motif is the “pigna” or pine cone, which represent good fortune, abundance, and fertility. Often seen as a protective charm, the pine cone was originally associated with Dionysus, the god of wine, fertility, and rebirth in Greek mythology, and this symbol was often carried on a staff by his followers to symbolize the god’s immortality and divine power. In Sicilian homes, ceramic pine cones are often displayed as a sign of welcome hospitality in the entrances of homes, balconies, and gardens, or as a talisman to ward off evil spirits.
Respecting these antique traditions and their associated folklore, this particular ceramic shop sells hand-painted wares from Caltagirone, Santo Stefano di Briga, Palermo, and Sciacca. No matter which piece catches your eye, you’re sure to be entranced by the vivid blue, yellow, and green intricate designs reflecting the island's diverse range of rulers including the Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, and Spanish civilizations. I bought a matching Moorish head salt and pepper shaker set along with a pine cone piece to place on my desk back at home!
Pro Tip:
Just in case you want to do a little more shopping…there’s an incredibly cute boutique around the corner called Turrisi Antique S.R.L. where I purchased the most perfect lemon and tile-filled sundress with a print that just screams Taormina!
Aperitif - Enoteca
FROM: NH Collection Taormina (Via Circonvallazione, 11, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Enoteca (Via Bagnoli Croci, 12, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 5 minutes taking the same path you used previously to reach Corso Umberto I before turning left onto Via Naumachia as it curves left to become Via Calapitrulli, then turn right onto Via Bagnoli Croci
Before dinner, enjoy an apéritif from streetside wine bar Enoteca, where you can peruse an array of Sicilian wines by the glass while people watching as you sip your chalice. An apéritif is a type of alcoholic beverage typically enjoyed before a meal to stimulate the appetite, derived from the Latin word "aperire” which means "to open,” reflecting its purpose of "opening" the appetite. Aperitifs like Aperol, prosecco, Campari, vermouth, and Lillet Blanc are usually light, dry, and low in alcohol content, designed to awaken the palate without overwhelming it.
These beverages are not just drinks but rather a cultural ritual enjoyed in European countries like France and Italy, where the "aperitivo" hour is a social event, often accompanied by light snacks. That being said, embrace la dolce vida and do as the Italians do by partaking in this tradition with your own glass before dinner!
Dinner - Vineria Modì
Last but not least, it’s time for your first dinner in Taormina! Starting off strong with a Michelin guide meal at Vineria Modì, you’ll find this restaurant just up the street two minutes away from Enoteca. Walk back the way you came, turning right onto Via Calapitrulli and you’re there!
A gourmet wine bar situated in the alleys of Taormina, this historic haunt boasts over 1,000 exclusive labels on the extensive wine list, which you can have recommended by the sommelier on site! Today, the wine accompanies fine innovative cuisine which respects tradition, nature and the seasons, brought to life by head chef Dalila Grillo who expresses herself, her land and all the products it offers through this culinary experience. An irresistible charm oozes from this oasis of gastronomic pleasure, where you can enjoy elaborate dishes with Sicilian flavor in the elegant dining room or the outdoor tables on the pedestrianized street. I’d wholeheartedly recommend sitting outside, as you’re very likely to be treated to a performance by the traditional quartets roaming the streets in search of tips for the melodic ambiance they add to your evening.
When it comes to the menu, you could decide between a six or eight course tasting menu, but I favor the €80 à la carte offering which includes two dishes you can select along with a dessert (plus the secret second plate of treats you’ll get before they bring the check!). This option feels like the best bang for your buck, plus you get to decide exactly what menu items you’d like to try, which can entail any combination of starters, first courses, and mains. Looking to maximize my investment on this dinner, I selected the two dishes with the priciest adornments, starting with a filet of beef tartare prepared with gherkins, shallots, capers, marinated egg roe, and topped with summer black truffle—talk about a ton of truffle on that plate! For my second menu item, I went with the spaghetti prepared in a seaweed butter and lemon sauce topped with caviar. Both of these rich dishes tasted absolutely divine, and the portion sizes were so large I couldn’t even finish my noodles—good thing my dessert stomach is an entirely separate ordeal! For my chosen sweet treat I went with the deconstructed coffee, dark chocolate, and mascarpone platter, which entailed a delicious contrast of textures and temperatures. All in all I couldn’t recommend this restaurant enough, and for only ~$30 a plate this Michelin guide meal felt absolutely worth the expense.
Day 2
Breakfast - Bam Bar
FROM: NH Collection Taormina (Via Circonvallazione, 11, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Bam Bar (Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: exit the hotel going left before turning right onto Via Fratelli Ingegnere, left onto Via Timeo, and right onto Via Teatrino Romano as it becomes Via di Giovanni
Bam Bar is THE #1 place in Taormina you can’t miss, and once you taste the sweet sweet combination of their granita and a warm brioche bun, you’ll understand why. Granita is a traditional Sicilian frozen dessert made from sugar, water, and a variety of flavorings, typically fruit juices or purees. The unique texture of this frozen dessert lies somewhere between sorbet and a slush, with ice crystals that are coarser than a typical sorbet but finer than a snow cone, which is achieved by manually scraping the mixture as it freezes rather than churning it.
Traditional flavors include lemon—the most classic and refreshing—almond, coffee, and strawberry. The ingredients are typically simple, focusing on the natural flavors of the primary fruit or seed component. At Bam Bar, I’d recommend the fragola (strawberry) and caffè (coffee) flavors; the lemon was still tasty but lacked the sweet cream topping the other two flavors and thus was nowhere near as life-changing. The other requirement is that you MUST order the soft, slightly sweet brioche bread to accompany your granita, as you’ll use this bun to scoop up the granita into the most delectable bite of a sweet treat you’ve ever tasted—I’m serious!
Given the impeccable quality of their products and bright, sunny atmosphere in and around the shop, Bam Bar has racked up quite a reputation locally, on social media, and certainly among tourists. I visited Taormina for the first time with my Sicilian boyfriend who told me “he knew a place,” which ended up being this internationally recognized favorite with 100K+ followers on Instagram frequented by Italian celebrities from every domain. Looking back at the pictures from his last family trip seven years ago, Bam Bar was certainly more of a local secret then, but has since exploded in popularity with the spike in tourism to the island spurred by the release of the second season of White Lotus. As such, you will literally find a huge line out the door pretty much every hour of the day—and there’s no way to make a reservation, so you just have to wait in line. The ensuing crowds are the thinnest in the early morning—we got in around 10:00 AM without a problem—which is why I’m recommending you begin your day here for breakfast. Outdoor tables are also more coveted than indoor spots, so if you’re not picky as to your seating arrangement you’ll also be seated faster—but don’t worry, once you have a table the service is incredibly speedy!
Teatro Antico di Taormina
FROM: Bam Bar (Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Teatro Antico di Taormina (Via Teatro Greco, 1, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 5 minutes up the slight incline of Via di Giovanni before turning right onto Via Teatro Greco and continue straight until you see the theater on your left
The Greco-Roman Teatro Antico di Taormina is an ancient theater dating all the way back to the 3rd century BC when it was originally built by the Greeks by order of Philistis—wife of the tyrant Hieron II—and then later extensively renovated by the Romans who added clay bricks and lime, decorating with splendid columns of white marble and gray granite. Despite being centuries old, the construction is one of the best preserved Greek theaters in the world, showcasing the blending of Greek theatrical design with Roman engineering to all who visit. Its structure, divided into three parts including the stage, seating area or cavea, and parts of the backstage orchestra, remains intact, allowing visitors like yourself to experience a genuine piece of ancient history.
The semi-circular shape is typical of Greek theaters, designed to take advantage of the spectacular natural landscape with the view of the Ionian Sea and the majesty of Mount Etna in the background. The cavea carved into the hillside rock has a diameter of over 100 meters and it’s estimated that in ancient times it could hold at least 10,000 spectators, providing excellent acoustics and views. Over the centuries, the theater changed use several times: from a stage for classical performances to an amphitheater where gladiatorial games and other public spectacles occurred, such as wild animal fighting.
Today, the combination of ancient ruins set against the backdrop of Sicily’s natural beauty creates a dramatic and picturesque setting in perfect harmony with the environment, making it the ideal stage for hosting concerts, theatrical performances, and operas enriched with a magical dimension, particularly during the summer. The annual Taormina Film Festival, one of Italy’s most prestigious film events, is held here alongside Taormina Arte and the David di Donatello awards ceremony. You can secure tickets online or at the box office for €12 or €6 if you qualify for the reduced price, which remains open from 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM, with the theater itself closing 45 minutes later. Free entry with tickets administered exclusively on site is granted during the first Sunday of every month, as well as April 25th, June 2nd, November 4th.
If you’re still feeling hungry after your Bam Bar breakfast or need a cool refreshing drink, stop by the Momento café inside the complex serving aperitifs paired with local rotisserie products, pastries, and ice cream.
Villa Comunale di Taormina
FROM: Teatro Antico di Taormina (Via Teatro Greco, 1, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Villa Comunale di Taormina (Via Bagnoli Croci, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 7 minutes back down Via Teatro Greco, turn left onto Via Timoleone, left onto Via Iallia Bassia continuing straight as it becomes Via del Ginnasio before turning left onto Via Bagnoli Croci
The Villa Comunale di Taormina is a lush garden originally built in the mid-19th century by order of Lady Florence Trevelyan, who commissioned this picturesque landscaping for her private estate. An English noblewoman raised at the court of Queen Victoria, she was exiled after having an affair with Queen Victoria's first born—the future King Edward VII— and subsequently settled in Taormina to eventually marry the mayor, Salvatore Cacciola. They purchased 87 plots of land and some old houses to craft the beautifully manicured gardens which were eventually converted into the historic public park you’ll find today, filled with a heterogeneous variety of Mediterranean and exotic plants, flowers, and pine trees reflecting Lady Trevelyan's influence on the blended English and Mediterranean style gardens.
The pathways are lined with vibrant blooms, creating a peaceful refuge where you can take a leisurely stroll outside the bustling busier tourist spots in town. The quiet atmosphere, shaded benches, and gentle breeze make it an ideal place for a relaxing moment of reflection during your Taormina trip. One of the other main draws is the elevated location delimited by a thick bougainvillea hedge and an openwork parapet, providing another panoramic photo opportunity to take in sweeping views of stunning Ionian Sea vistas, Mount Etna, and the nearby coastline.
The most unique feature of the tranquil garden is the smattering of historic whimsical structures, known as follies, designed in an eclectic mix of creative and original styles. Built between 1890 and 1899, these small pavilions and towers inspired by oriental construction add charm and character to the serene environment, making it an even more intriguing place to explore. They’re organized according to a system of open terraces superimposed with structural elements and arches, before being topped off with small square turrets.
Lunch - Rosticceria Da Cristina 2
FROM: Villa Comunale di Taormina (Via Bagnoli Croci, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Rosticceria Da Cristina 2 (Via Giovanni di Giovanni, 28, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 4 minutes up Via Bagnoli Croci, turn right onto Via del Ginnasio, and turn left onto Via Iallia Bassia where you’ll then find the restaurant on your right
For lunch, you’re headed to the best street food shop in Taormina to try arancini, a traditional Sicilian dish consisting of stuffed rice balls coated with breadcrumbs and deep-fried to a golden, crispy perfection. The name "arancini" comes from the Italian word "arancia" meaning "orange," due to their round shape and golden color which resemble small pointed oranges.
This particular joint is so popular they had to open an additional rosticceria in town, and even at Rosticceria Da Cristina 2 you’ll certainly have to wait in line for a bit before you can order your food! Rosticceria Da Cristina—and her sister restaurant, Da Cristina 2—is all about Sicilian traditions, preparing their specialty dishes with true Sicilian ingredients and old recipes. For only €3.50 I dug into a Catania-style arancini al ragù, filled with rich meat sauce, parmesan, peas, and mozzarella contained within the distinctive conical shape. Given the hearty risotto base and fried breadcrumb shell I was more than satisfied after eating a single arancini—meaning this will probably be the cheapest meal you eat during your whole Sicily trip! Given arancini is intended to be eaten as a street food, don’t ask for a fork or plate either, since the establishment won’t give you one; simply wrap the arancini in a napkin and dig in with your first bite!
Dessert - Gelatomania
Another day in Sicily means another opportunity to eat gelato, so for dessert you‘ll walk 3 minutes up Via di Giovanni before turning right onto Corso Umberto I to find Gelatomania just a bit past the point where you originally entered the main street after walking down from the hotel. In this artisanal gelato shop you can taste up to three of your favorite Sicilian flavors for quite a reasonable price—only €5 for the largest cup size and €6 for the largest cone size! If you’re overwhelmed by the array of options presented before you, let me suggest the fior di latte as a milky vanilla-adjacent base, pistachio as a Sicilian symbol of the region, and nocciola as a final nutty note to tie the whole dessert together! Whichever flavor combination you end up selecting, you can’t go wrong with this tasty frozen treat hailing from Italy—although the official origin story remains debated on to this day!
Isola Bella
FROM: Gelatomania (Corso Umberto, 7, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Cable Car - Taormina Mazzarò (Via Guardiola Vecchia, 2, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: exit the gelato shop from the left onto Corso Umberto I, turning right onto Via Luigi Pirandello/SP10 until you see the cable car terminal entrance
While Taormina offers a more cobblestone chic ambiance, to experience breezy seaside bliss you can take the cable car down to Isola Bella. This small island connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand is part of a protected marine reserve and can be accessed via a short walk during low tide or by boat. On land, the lush island is covered with rich vegetation, including exotic plants and Mediterranean flora, making it a green oasis in the middle of the azure sea. The surrounding crystal-clear waters are teeming with marine life, including colorful fish and coral formations, contributing to Isola Bella’s reputation as a natural paradise and making it a popular spot for snorkeling and diving.
The island is home to a historic villa which once belonged to Lady Florence Trevelyan—yes the same Lady Florence who created the Villa Comunale di Taormina! As such, you can expect to find a similar mix of English and Mediterranean influences in the villa and surrounding gardens, which today have been incorporated into an informative museum allowing you to explore the ensuing history and architecture.
To reach Isola Bella, you’ll need to purchase round trip cable car tickets for €10 in person at the cable car terminal. Regrettably, it’s important to note that high winds, technical difficulties, and other confounding factors can delay or otherwise halt your oceanside expedition. This is exactly what happened in my case, and after waiting thirty minutes with no explanation from the Sicilian operator smoking a cigarette why the cable car wasn’t running—and then when it did start running why they wouldn’t let us board the cars—I gave up and simply retreated back to the hotel for an afternoon reprise of lounging in the rooftop waterfall pool.
Dinner - Ristorante Timeo
FROM: NH Collection Taormina (Via Circonvallazione, 11, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TO: Grand Hotel Timeo (Via Teatro Greco, 59, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy)
TRANSPORTATION: walk 7 minutes as you exit the hotel going left before turning right onto Via Fratelli Ingegnere, left onto Via Timeo, and right onto Via Teatrino Romano as it becomes Via Teatro Greco
For your final night in Taormina, embark on a culinary journey at the flagship restaurant of the gorgeous Grand Hotel Timeo, Ristorante Timeo. As soon as you arrive you’ll be treated to scenic views of the town’s dramatic vistas, and this striking location is complemented by a superb menu of locally sourced Sicilian favorites. This mouth-watering cuisine is paired alongside an expert menu of regional wines—culminating in an atmospheric terrace experience which beckons for an unforgettable alfresco feast! You can dine at Ristorante Timeo from 1:00 - 2:30 PM for lunch every day, with dinner service beginning at 7:30 PM and ending at 10:30 PM.
I began the meal with a “riserva ecorì” risotto from the mill, which is topped with seafood and flavored with tomato and oregano salad sauce. For dinner, my travel companion and I shared the Sicilian beef for two, accompanied with a Nero d'Avola sauce and a few mini plates of vegetables. Both dishes tasted absolutely scrumptious, and the table-side steak cutting service made our experience feel that much more special!
How Much Do Two Days in Taormina Cost?
Following the above Taormina itinerary totaled $1,230.61, costing me $615.31 per day as a young 20-something:
Transportation
$132.06 - Sixt automatic rental car with insurance split amongst two people and itemized over two days
€10- round trip Isola Bella cable car ticket
Food and Drink
€4.50 - fior di latte gelato in a regular cone topped with fresh cream from Levante Gelato Artigianale
€80 - à la carte dinner menu offering from Vineria Modì
€6.50 - strawberry granite with a brioche bun from Bam Bar
$3.82 - one ragù arancini from Rosticceria Da Cristina 2
€4 - medium cup sized gelato from Gelatomania
$141.81 - dinner from Ristorante Timeo
Activities
€12 - entry ticket to the Teatro Antico di Taormina
Souvenirs
$56.94 - Moorish head salt and pepper shaker and pine cone pottery from Managó Ceramiche Siciliane
$87.35 - printed sundress inspired by Sicilian motifs purchased from Turrisi Antique S.R.L.
$153.17 - handmade leather Capri sandals purchased from Il Sandalo Caprese on Corso Umberto I
Lodging
$524.83 - two nights in the NH Collection Taormina with breakfast included, split amongst two people
My trip to Taormina was one of three stops during a Sicilian roadtrip with my boyfriend, who I had never traveled to Europe with despite many failed past plans. As such, we were going big or going home. Realistically, if I had traveled here alone—or if you’re operating on a more practical, conservative budget—I would not have stayed in a 5-star hotel, nor purchased every single thing I fell in love with while shopping. I was just in such a good mood overall, I couldn’t say no to any form of a splurge! Assuming you find a more reasonable accommodation and don’t purchase $250 worth of souvenirs, the final trip total comes out to a price that’s much easier to swallow.
The exciting thing about Taormina is that you can easily stick to a minimal food budget just by tasting the regional specialties—arancini, gelato, cannoli, and granita are all easily found for under €10 each across the town! If you do want to dabble with some fine dining, I found even the Michelin guide menu recommendations to be quite reasonable—€80 for three and a half dishes topped with truffle and caviar is more than worth it to me!
What to Wear in Taormina?
Taormina embodies quintessential Mediterranean charm, with a posh fashion scene that reflects its picturesque coastal setting which has been elevated over the past few years by the arrival of a luxury designer scene. During the day, don airy fabrics and light colors like limoncello yellow which mirror the town's sun-drenched ambiance—it gets extremely hot during the summer, so being selective about the fabrics composing the flowing sundresses you wear will pay off tremendously once you’re strolling down Corso Umberto I. Slicking your hair back into a bun is highly recommended as well, or you can hide your perspiring forehead with a high fashion headscarf! Even if you don’t plan to shop designer yourself, you can exude the same elegance with chic accessories like oversized sunglasses and woven basket bags while paying homage to the footwear of choice in Southern Italy since the era of Romans—leather strappy sandals.
As the sun sets, your style in Taormina' should become even more refined, echoing the glamorous allure which descends over the town as the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie (that’s amore!). Evening dinners under the stars command more form-fitting, detailed dresses than what you’ll find during the sunny day, like those adorned with tiled patterns or sun motifs reminiscent of Sicilian architectural decor or structured bodices which draw more definition around the shape of a dress. If there’s two words which you should look to embody to align with the town’s summer style, those would be effortless elegance.
Limoncello Yellow
adorn the light yellow hue of the sweet Meyer lemon to dress the part while you drink southern Italy’s tastiest export
Tiered Tile Prints
wear flowing tiered dresses with painted-tile prints to embody the vibrant ceramic squares decorating Taormina
Structured Bodices
Posh Taormina is no breezy beach town, so up your elegance with a structured bodice without going avant-garde
Sun Motifs
radiate the warm vitality of the Mediterranean climate with sunny motifs that lean into this prominent Sicilian symbol
Slicked Back Bun
Sicily’s hot, humid summer means even if your hair doesn’t start slicked, after walking all day it’ll end up that way!
High Fashion Headscarf
embrace your inner Audrey Hepburn breezing along on a Vespa with your high fashion headscarf blowing in the wind
Will You Have a 'White Lotus' Moment in Taormina?
Do you mean will you cheat on your husband with his best friend who you overtly hate—well I sure hope not, but that’s ultimately up to you! All jokes aside, the widespread viewership of the HBO (I guess technically now “Max”) series White Lotus has put the world on to the appeal of Taormina, a now coveted travel destination that previously was hardly topping anyone’s bucket list. The show was pivotal in spreading the picturesque, panoramic views of pristine natural beauty that have always existed in this cliffside Sicilian destination—and I’m not just jumping to conclusions here, many of the local employees we spoke with during our trip confirmed the correlated timing of this travel trend. That being said, worldwide exposure has it’s pros and cons; now you and I have heard of Taormina, but so has everybody else packing the cramped cobblestone streets of Corso Umberto I. On days when a cruise ship docks in the port, the density of the visiting mob becomes even more apparent, so this trip may not be the relaxing retreat you envision it to be (Cefalù is a much better Sicilian destination for that goal!). Expect to wait in lines at the most popular spots—especially since the full area of the entire township is quite tiny—and you should absolutely prepare by making reservations in advance during the high season.
All these pointed comments aside, I had a magical time in Taormina and would recommend anyone who’s interested come visit. Since Taormina is such a condensed destination, you really only need a few days to cover all the major attractions—and I wouldn’t recommend booking a stay beyond two to three days. This isn’t really a beachy stop either which is something I didn’t quite realize before arriving, and your only real chance to get down to the ocean from the developed cliffside is via the cable car system, which inconveniently wasn’t working during our stay. Instead, you’ll find endless hours of shopping to occupy your attention, a treasure trove of distinctly Sicilian cuisine cooked to perfection, and ancient monuments dating all the way back to BC times—you can almost think of Taormina like an island version of Rome!
