1 Day Eating Okonomiyaki in Osaka

TRAVEL DATE: MAY 31-JUNE 2, 2024 | EST. READING TIME: 17 MIN



 

Heading to “Japan’s kitchen” to try the best of the country’s cuisine?

 

Enter a city of flashing lights and sizzling street food that encompasses Japan’s foodie paradise—none other than Osaka! Towering Osaka Castle will transport you right back to the era of the shogun, while the life-sized animatronics beckoning you into the restaurants lining Dotonbori will send you straight into the future. Bow to the sacred deer of Nara and reward them with a cracker in return, or treat yourself to local octopus specialties sold in the stands of Kuromon Market. End your evening by running up to the Glico man looming over the canal, or witness all of these attractions from above in the huge ovular Don Quijote ferris wheel. No matter how you choose to spend your time, a day in Osaka is sure to delight your taste buds and excite your senses with the lively, vibrant atmospheres that makes this entire city twinkle!


One Day Osaka Itinerary

In a hurry? Here’s a time-stamped Osaka travel guide of how to spend one day in the city:

  • 8:00 - 9:10 AM: 🚉 Take the train from Osaka out to Nara (1 hr 10 min)

  • 9:10 - 10:10 AM: 🦌 Feed and bow to the sacred sika deer in the Nara Deer Park (1 hr)

  • 10:10 - 10:40 AM: ☕ Enjoy a frappuccino and lemon loaf cafe for brunch at Cafe Conce (30 min)

  • 10:40 AM - 12:10 PM: 🛤️ Commute back into the city to head to the next attraction of the day (1 hr 30 min)

  • 12:10 - 2:00 PM: 🏯 Watch the golden boats glide around the Osaka Castle moat (1 hr 50 min)

  • 2:15 - 3:45 PM: 🛍️ Window shop the luxury storefronts of the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street (1 hr 30 min)

  • 4:00 - 5:30 PM: 🐙 Sample local specialities like okonomiyaki and takoyaki at Kuromon Market (1 hr 30 min)

  • 5:40 - 8:00 PM: 🚤 Continue your foodie journey and stop for proper dinner on Dotonbori (2 hr 20 min)

In actuality, my best friend and I accomplished the following itinerary over two, very sleepy and relaxed days in Osaka—as we visited the city during the tail-end of an action-packed Japan trip. That being said, you could absolutely fit everything into one day, or take it a bit easy, sleep in, and enjoy some leisure time in the afternoon if you have time to spread this itinerary over two days.


How to Get From Tokyo or Kyoto to Osaka?

If you’re coming from Tokyo, you’ll want to travel via the shinkansen bullet train network. These high-speed railway lines in Japan are known for their comfort and speed, using magnetic levitation to float above the tracks and eliminate friction. As such, these trains can reach top speeds of nearly 200 mph while still maintaining a remarkable safety record, with no recorded passenger fatalities since beginning operations over 50 years ago. When it comes to reaching Osaka, the Nozomi is the fastest train service since it only stops only at major stations with multiple departures per hour in each direction.

To book a ride, pre-book a reservation online or purchase tickets at the Tokyo Station kiosks. When traveling to Kyoto on a 6:00 AM train, even the non-reserved seat cars seemed quite full, so I’d definitely recommend locking down your preferred train in advance. When making a purchase online, you’ll have the option between non-reserved seat and reserved seats in ordinary cars, or reserved seats in first class cars which inherently increase in price according to their class. Heed my warning and only book your tickets using Klook, if you make a purchase through RailNinja you’ll get hit with an additional $50 in ridiculous and unnecessary service fees.

Even if you book your ride online, you still need to pick up two physical tickets from the shinkansen kiosks on your departure day. This was actually quite a quick process with in-depth instructions and photo guidance provided by Klook in advance, so no need to arrive exceedingly early to get thus done! You do need to keep both your tickets however, as you must to insert these at your destination to exit the ticketed train area. If you lose these tickets like my best friend did, save a copy of your digital confirmation as a proof of purchase for the train station personnel who will be able to help you exit the station.

On the train you’ll find pretty much all the fixings you’d expect to find onboard an airplane, including free wifi, outlets to charge your devices, and reclining chairs with tray tables. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride as you cruise over to Osaka!

Pro Tip:

On the ride over, sit on the right side of the train for potential view of Mt. Fuji. The reverse goes for the way back, during which you’ll want to sit on the left side top hopefully catch a glimpse of this notoriously elusive peak.

If you’re coming from Kyoto, simply hop aboard the Special RapidHimeji via Maibara Tokaido-Sanyo Line at Kyoto Station which will cost you ¥580 and take 23 minutes to progress through two stops before you quickly arrive at Shin-Osaka Station. This line runs every fifteen minutes—meaning hopping between two major cities has never been more convenient!


How to Get Around Osaka?

WALK: As I’ve recommended in other destinations, walking is usually the best way to go if the journey takes anywhere between twenty and thirty minutes. There aren’t many super scenic walking routes in the city, but you’ll naturally stroll through Shinsaibashi-suji, Kuromon Market, and Dotonbori since cars aren’t allowed there anyways!

TAXI: You can easily request a cab in your hotel lobby or call one yourself on Uber to see the estimated wait time and duration up front. We strictly used Uber for our taxi transportation needs in Osaka, and it never failed us! The base fare for taxis here is ¥680, with an additional charge of ¥400 per kilometer during the day—which you may notice is more expensive than in Kyoto. The vast majority of taxis accept credit cards as a payment method—which is always guaranteed if you’re ordering a ride on Uber anyways.

TRAIN: The public transit system in Osaka is the best efficient, affordable way to get from here to there—whether you’re taking advantage of above ground railways or underground subway lines. Add the Suica card to your digital wallet before initially using the public transportation here, as this card will allow you to scan your phone and pass through the station gates—it’s as simple as that! You need to begin by uploading at least ¥1,000 during the initial set-up, but afterwards you can add specific amounts, so on your last ride be sure to check your route fare in advance and only add any remaining cash needed to reach that exact amount—otherwise you’ll leave a bit of change on the card when you leave Japan. In every city we visited I was in awe at how clear and simple the public transit signage is, as I’ve consistently gotten on trains going in the wrong direction in New York yet didn’t make a single mistake in the Japanese stations. Here each stop is numbered and colored with distinct names for each line that also visualize which stops the route will arrive at along the way—and all the announcements made are repeated in English! To practice basic train etiquette, sit quietly and keep to yourself, avoid eating and drinking, and only listen to headphones at a volume that won’t leak out noise into the area around you.


Where to Stay in Osaka?

CANAL STAY: Imperial Hotel Osaka ($511.02 for two nights, split among two people)

Beware—there is both a Imperial Hotel Osaka and an Osaka Imperial Hotel; this review details the former, and if you do end up booking a room there be sure you’re directing any taxis to the correct location! That caveat aside, this five-star hotel is generally catered to business personnel with conference rooms and offices located on the premises—but you can enjoy this elevated luxury as a simple tourist too!

We stayed in a standard room type which spans the regular floors, ranging from the 7th to the 18th floor. The furnishings are a bit muted, but the overall quality of the furniture and fixings is quite sophisticated—including the marble bathroom which may have had a shower with the best water pressure I’ve ever encountered in this lifetime! The spacious 323 square foot room is a comfortable space with free wifi, a satellite TV, refrigerator, tea kettle, scale, and minibar with additional goodies inside available for purchase. Like the other Japanese establishments we stayed at, the Imperial Hotel Osaka also provides special touches which allow you to relax and unwind, including daily water bottles, tea sets, a capsule coffee maker, a yukata and slipper combo, and much to our delight a physical copy of the morning paper. If you end up wanting to dine on the premises, you’ll fine bars and restaurants encompassing French, Japanese, and Chinese cuisine, plus teppanyaki! A sweet treat can also be acquired from the hotel shop found on the first basement floor, which sells sweets, bread, and interestinly enough “Doorman Snoopy” merchandise.


What to Do in Osaka?

Nara Deer Park

FROM: Imperial Hotel Osaka (1 Chome-8-50 Tenmabashi, Kita Ward, Osaka, 530-0042, Japan)

TO: Nara Deer Park (Nara, Japan)

TRANSPORTATION: walk 13 min to Sakuranomiya Station → Tsuruhashi Station via Local Clockwise Osaka Loop Line then →Kintetsu-Nara Station via Express Kintetsu-Nara Line (45 min, 5 stops then 7 stops, ¥760)

Begin your first day in Osaka bright and early by heading outside the city to Nara, a famous public park located at the foot of Mount Wakakusa filled with sacred bowing deer. Yes you read that right—the park is home to over 1,200 wild sika deer, which are considered national treasures and have been protected for centuries. According to legend, the deer are sacred messengers of the Shinto god of thunder, swordsmanship, and martial arts—Takemikazuchi—who arrived in Nara on the back of a white deer to guard the newly constructed capital. Today, you can come to visit one of the oldest parks in Japan, interacting with and feeding the deer who call it home. Bundles of special crackers specifically tailored to their dietary needs called "shika senbei" are sold for ¥200 within the park so you can feed the deer, but be warned that the deer are very well aware of this and trained to make you drop the treats! I saw many tourists get ambushed by a flock of otherwise gentle creatures all pining for a taste of one little cracker, and children were particularly susceptible to these sneak attacks. Best case scenario, you’ll bow to the deer and it will bow back—seriously! this is how they’ve learned to ask for crackers over time—then it will gently eat the cracker you’ve offered to it. We decided to avoid becoming targets altogether by not purchasing any tasty treats, much to the dismay of the deer we interacted with.

In general, be prepared for these animals to initially approach your pockets and any bags you might be carrying as they attempt to sniff out whether you’re hiding surprise treats for them. The initial deer you’ll encounter upon exiting the train station are naturally the most forward, but as you explore deeper into the park you’ll encounter much more docile creatures who aren’t as concerned about haggling you for a snack. Along the way, you’ll discover several important historical and cultural sites, including Todai-ji Temple, which houses the Great Buddha, and Kasuga Taisha Shrine. This excursion out of Osaka ended being my favorite thing we did in the entire city, and it’s truly a transformation, one of a kind experience to be able to interact with wild animals in this manner. I truly felt like Snow White communicating with these creatures in a kind of unspoken language, and I doubt I will ever feel this connected to a herd of deer ever again—so if you do nothing else in this itinerary, be sure to go to Nara!

Pro Tip:

A park home to over one thousand deer means you’re going to encounter, and unavoidably step in, lots and lots of poop. Knowing this ahead of time, be sure to avoid wearing your new sneakers straight out of the box like I did—instead opt for an old pair you don’t mind dirtying.

Brunch - Cafe Conce

Once you’ve had enough deer interactions for the morning, head to Cafe Conce for a delicious Western breakfast—which may be the only one you have in Japan! As one of the last days of our trip through the country, we were deeply craving bread at this point and identified this cozy mountain-style cafe as a location where we could not only watch the deer from the window, but also where we could enjoy tastes of home from items on their menu by ordering items like a salmon lox sandwich, iced caramel latte, and weekend citron cake. Does this order make me sound incredibly basic—yes, but after eating fish for breakfast for days on end we needed a break! If you’re in the same boat this is the perfect spot for you, and as an added benefit you’ll be able to lounge in comfy couch-like chairs while listening to the top pop hits at the time play over the speakers. You’ll find this establishment directly next to Ogai’s Gate in a plaza of other shops and restaurants serving the area. If you’re coming directly from the train station, head straight down Omiya-dori street towards the park, taking a left after passing the east wing of the Nara National Museum.

Osaka Castle

FROM: Nara Deer Park (Nara, Japan)

TO: Osaka Castle (1-1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 540-0002, Japan)

TRANSPORTATION: Kintetsu-Nara Station → Ikoma Station via Rapid-Express Osaka-Namba Kintetsu-Nara Line then Morinomiya Station via Local Cosma Square Kintetsu-Keihanna Line (26 min, 4 stops then 4 stops, ¥860)

Head back into the city for another cultural experience, this time centered on Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s unifier of Japan, Osaka Castle! Built in 1583, the castle became a symbol of Hideyoshi's power and was a focal point during the Siege of Osaka from 1614 through 1615, which marked the end of the Toyotomi lineage and the rise of the Tokugawa shogunate. Initially you’ll walk through the large park surrounding the castle, in which you’ll see gardens, moats, and several historic structures. Upon approaching the castle itself, you’ll observe a five-story main tower adorned with golden decorations and intricate carvings, which actually has eight stories on the inside, and is built atop a tall stone foundation to protect against attacks. Despite being destroyed and rebuilt several times due to wars and natural disasters with the most recent restoration completed in 1997, modern renovations have focused on preserving the castle’s historical integrity while incorporating museum facilities. For only ¥600, you can enter the main tower and bear witness to exhibits detailing the history of the castle, Hideyoshi, and the unification of Japan during the Azuchi-Momoyama period. Expect to find samurai armor, artifacts, dioramas, and video presentations displayed here, while the observation deck on top is the best place in the whole city to see panoramic views over Osaka!

We did not enter the castle itself, instead finding amusement from the flipping, sword-throwing street performers putting on a show out front! Even if you don’t have this daring entertainment at your disposal, you can walk through Nishinomaru Garden and it’s more than six hundred cherry trees for ¥200, ride golden shimmering boats around the moat for ¥1,500, or simply stroll around the expansive Osaka Castle park for free to find scenic landscaping like the plum grove which blooms in February and March. However you spend the time, this is the most iconic landmark in the city—akin to the Eiffel Tower in Paris—so you should take definitely incorporate this monument in your sightseeing agenda!

Shinsaibashi-suji

FROM: Osaka Castle (1-1 Osakajo, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 540-0002, Japan)

TO: Shinsaibashi-suji (Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085, Japan)

TRANSPORTATION: Morinomiya Station → Shinsaibashi Station via Local Taisho Nagahoritsurumiryokuchi Line then walk 6 minutes to Shinsaibashi-suji (9 min, 5 stops, ¥240)

Indulge in a bit of shopping after your cultural morning and head down to the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street, nearly two thousand feet of high-end boutiques, department stores, independent shops, and international brands. This shopping paradise caters to both locals and tourists, offering everything from luxury goods to Japanese souvenirs within the shotengai — a commercial market street that is covered overhead and closed to car traffic. With traditional architecture dating back to the Edo period, you’ll enter a window to the past which blends with modern storefronts like Orange Boutique, specializing in the curation of recently manufactured to vintage Hermes masterpieces. On these walls you’ll find Kellys and Birkins galore—which are quite stunning to look at even if you can’t afford them yet! Along the same lines of high-end window shopping, we also popped into Daimaru, a towering department store of twelve floors with all the luxury Japanese beauty products you could ever want! Evidently Shiseido is the name of the game here, so if you arrived in Japan hoping to bring home some high-quality cosmetics, be sure to pop inside the first floor of this glamorous mall.

Kuromon Market

FROM: Shinsaibashi-suji (Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085, Japan)

TO: Kuromon Market (2 Chome Nipponbashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0073, Japan)

TRANSPORTATION: Shinsaibashi Station → Namba Station via Local Nakamozu Midosuji Line (2 min, direct, ¥190)

Another covered market street will be calling your name next—however instead of designer bags you’ll find street food and local Osaka specialities! Dating back to the Edo period, bustling Kuromon Market is renowned for its vast array of fresh and high-quality food products sold in over 150 shops offering everything from fresh seafood, meat, fruits, and vegetables to a variety of prepared foods like sushi, tempura, and takoyaki. Speaking of takoyaki, these ball-shaped fritters made are something you need to sample while you’re here—or if you’d prefer a savory pancake then opt for okonomiyaki! Either way, your dish is likely to be filled with octopus, tempura scraps, pickled ginger, and green onion while the batter is infused with dashi, a combination of dried kelp and bonito flakes. These delicacies are local to Osaka, so if you’re daring enough be sure to give them a try! If fresh seafood sounds more appetizing, you can enjoy oysters, sea urchin, scallops and more prepared on the spot—and these are often the same high-quality ingredients supplying restaurants in the area. Since you’ll be heading to the heart of the city’s vibrant food scene after this, if you’d like to save your appetite you can also spend time perusing the kitchenware, clothing, and souvenirs sold in this traditional retail market. Even so, a ¥1000 waygu and crab leg combo like the one I ordered below can’t hurt—so be sure to try some street food from this lively market!

Dinner - Dotonbori

Turn right out of Kuromon Market onto 堺筋/紀州街道/府道102号, and walk straight for about nine minutes until you see a canal. At this point you will have arrived at colorful Dotonbori, known for its vibrant nightlife, lively food scene, and the famous Glico Running Man sign spotted along the canal. This street comes alive at night when the neon lights shrine brightly over the boats cruising through the water, and thus you’ll want to head over here once the sun is beginning to set. At once you’ll be thrust into a visually stimulating environment with large flashing billboards and animated, exaggerated signs moving mechanically over the entrance of most restaurants. The Kani Doraku crab sign is one such animatronic attraction, which makes it easy to identify the primary speciality served inside—so whether you’re craving sushi, waygu, tempura, or gyoza, just look for the storefront with a life-size version of this food affixed to the façade! The energetic spirit of Osaka is undeniable here, and after dinner you can keep the party going with fun to be had at the various amusement arcades and entertainment venues dotting this street.

Pulsing with life, this area has been a center for entertainment since the Edo period, with its origins as a theater district—although many of these same theaters today have been replaced by dining options from casual street stalls to high-end restaurants as it has transformed over the ages into foodie paradise. If you accidentally sampled too much street food over in Kuromon Market, have no fear as you can still enjoy the buzzing atmosphere walking down the street before treating yourself to a boat cruise and witness these sights from the canal! If you do partake in this activity, keep an eye out for the humongous ovular ferris wheel—the only operational one in the world—emerging from none other than a Don Quijote store!


How Much Does One Day in Osaka Cost?

Following the above itinerary led the cost of a one day, two night trip to Osaka to be $388.07 for me as a recent grad on a budget:

Evidently the largest expense I encountered was our hotel, which really isn’t reflective of a one day trip in most cases since we spent a total of two nights in Osaka. As you can see reflected above, I hardly spent anything during my time in Osaka as the majority of the tourist activities are free or extremely low cost — like going to Nara only requires a few hundred yen for transportation, walking around Osaka Castle and the surrounding park is free if you don’t go inside, and the street food in Kuromon Market was extremely cheap while making us so full that we decided to skip dinner altogether!

It’s important to take into account that Osaka was the last city in our Japan itinerary, so we arrived a bit worse for wear having already spent and ate tons in Tokyo and Kyoto prior to this last destination. That being said, a typical Osaka experience would likely incur more food expenses—although the street food will remain reasonable if you’re on a tighter budget—and if you visit the city by itself or earlier on in your Japan trip I’d expect to do much more damage on the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street!


What to Wear in Osaka?

Fashion in Osaka retains elements of the street style that Tokyo is famous for, the ensembles in this city are crafted a bit differently. Rather than edgy and outlandish, Osaka is a bit sporty and full of zany characters gracing every building and storefront—which gives you more than enough license to have this much fun with your own outfits!

As with the rest of the Japanese cities neutral colors like black, navy, and gray dominate—but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t add some joyful visual interest with a pop of color, especially in vibrant Osaka! Sneakers will still be your go-to shoe here, and if you really want to blend amongst the locals consider layering pieces you never would at home—like wearing a long flowing dress over a pair of straight leg jeans. The general silhouette and principles of your Tokyo outfits will still apply here, so reflect on what you’re packing for the nation’s capital and pull in some of the extra pieces described below to be perfectly prepared for Osaka:

Graphic Tees

like the exaggerated characters gracing the restaurant façades of Dotonbori, rep silly images on a fun graphic tee

Sporty Symbols

get geared up to run as fast as the Glico man with sporty symbols that add a bit of street style to your ensemble

Layered Looks

don’t ask questions, just trust me when I say you’ll look like a Japanese fashion girly layering dresses over jeans

Maxi Skirts

no matter the color, texture, or fabric a long skirt can do you no wrong during hot, long days walking around Osaka

Statement Satchel

make your look pop with a colorful bag slung over your shoulder, or pay homage to your favorite Japanese character

Striped Sneakers

bring the sporty spice all the way down to your footwear with striped sneakers reminiscent of og onitsuka tigers


Is Osaka Worth the Hype?

Umm…unfortunately I’m here to say not really? Before any Japan stans come for me, I absolutely ADORED Tokyo and Kyoto and for that reason I’m considering Japan my second favorite country I’ve ever visited, but since those experiences were so out of this world Osaka felt like a little bit of a let down. Anticipating enjoying some of the best food of our trip in “Japan’s kitchen,” the local octopus specialities were just alright and the street food wasn’t anything superior to what we had tried in the previous two cities. I do think the pure state of sheer tiredness that was descending upon on us played a major factor in how I perceived Osaka, especially on the food front because we had eaten so much seafood at that point—fish for breakfast, lunch, and dinner practically!—that it no longer sounded very appetizing, even as a diehard sushi fan. Even without these confounding variables though, nothing in Osaka really stood out to me, and it honestly felt like a smaller, less cool version of Tokyo—which is why my current advice to anyone visiting Japan for the first time would be to spend more time in Tokyo and skip Osaka altogether. The one notable exception here is Nara, which was a truly magical experience that made me feel like Snow White communicating with wild animals, but you could just as easily stay in Kyoto and take a half-day trip to the deer park from there! Even the prominent Dotobori canal area ended up being a bit lackluster, exuding the same flashy commercial extravagance as somewhere like Times Square which in turn often means you end up with lower quality food and service than you had hoped for. I don’t write this review to sound ungrateful or try to slander the city, but I’ve heard of so many first-time travelers like myself plan to do the Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka circuit and after partaking in it myself, I really think you’re better off spending more time in the first two cities—at least for your first go around!

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3 Days Wearing Kimonos in Kyoto